Waxed Linen Thread

[Ole Frog]

Can someone give me a quick primer on waxed linen thread?
In particle what weight/size for a particular leather thickness etc.

I enjoy making my own gear and have been using artificial sinew, I would like to start using linen thread and need to know the basics

best place to buy would be good as well

 

[BrownBear]

I'm a sincere fan of Crawford Threads 4-ply waxed Irish linen thread. At around $16 for 100 yards or so, it's a very good price in my experience. Wander around the site I linked and amaze yourself with the variety available.

You can also find the same stuff in 2-, 3-, 7-, and I think 12-ply. I find 2-ply too thin for anything but the thinnest leather, 3-ply marginal for 4-5 oz leather used in most accoutrement sewing, and 4-ply just right. The Crawford is a whole lot thinner than what you get from Tandy and other traditional leather sources, but stronger than strong.

It's thin enough that I can use the Size 0 (Small) harness needles rather than Size 000 (Large). Lots easier to use. You have to work a little to get the 4-ply Crawford through the small eyes, but it's worth it. Flatten the end of the thread then cut if off at an angle, and it will fit fine.

One of the many things I like about Crawford is the uniformity. No lumps and wads in the thread, so it pulls cleanly through the leather. I make lots more than muzzleloading stuff, so the colors are welcome too.

Lotta guys prefer to use natural color unwaxed and wax it themselves. Not I. They'll chime in and be a great resource if you like it too.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Lotta guys prefer to use natural color unwaxed and wax it themselves....

I'm in that camp. Couple of reasons, one being you only have to buy one color and buying narual in a big spool saves you a lot.

Also, you can't dye the waxed threads. Waxing is easy and you can dye the unwaxed natural thread any color then wax.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[BrownBear]

I just went back to that site and found a better starting page for you to look over the Crawford array. Same insights about 4-ply for what you need, but it's easier to navigate from this alternate link.

Also wanted to point out that you can often find Crawford in good art supply stores if you have one nearby. Look in their book binding section.

One last point, and I'll shuddup. I've grown real fond of this Flat Sided Awl Haft. It's small and easy to use, but best of all, it doesn't roll off the table and ruin an awl point you worked so hard to sharpen. The fine Crawford thread also lets me use the Small Diamond Awl Blade rather than bigger versions. You gotta get it sharper than sharp, right down to using rouge as a final sharpening step, but it cuts through heavy leather like butter when you sharpen it right and smooth. The smaller size holes are a lot easier to manage and work with when you get close the edge of your leather.

Nuff of my yawping. Others need to kick in with their experience, because there's a lot of it out there, along with some very good alternative methods to mine.

 

[LaBonte]

FWIW - one or two ply thread is meant for those of us who still make up our own threads of whatever number of cords we want (See the book "The Art of Handsewing Leather" for more info on how-to).
Along with ply (the number of cords)there is also thread gauge i.e. 18/3 = three cords of 18 gauge (like metal the smaller the gauge the larger the thread) then there is 25/3, on up to IIRC 40/3.

Like JD I prefer unwaxed linen most of the time and mostly use Barbours which can be purchased here - http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=43_60_62
For hand sewing the left/right hand is not important (it refers to usage in needle and awl sewing machine usage)
For wax I use a simple form of coad - a mix of beeswax and rosin/pitch at about a 60/40 mix. There are many recipes for the different types of coad including black and white. For needles with 4 ply thread I use size 1 or 2 and with 5 ply size 0. With the unwaxed thread you can also color it any color you want - I use leather dye.
Another source for finer line threads is http://www.fineleatherworking.com/


As Brown Bear noted 4 ply is a good general usage size for most things especially if using the period standard of 8-12 Stitches per inch on leather up to 8/9 oz. Thicker than that I like 5 ply and 6-8 SPI

as for price the Barbours is still the least expensive overall - 4 ply is $52.00 bucks for 1450 yards - the same amount of Crawford's for instance would be #232.00 - as much thread as I use in a year (about 1/2 a spool of the 4 ply) the cost is a major consideration.

 

[Ole Frog]

Thank you guys
This is exactly the kind of information I was asking for

The more informed I am the better