Went back to water - cleaning woes and foes

[Rebel bull]

For quite a while I've been avoiding straight water cleaning of my ML's including shotguns, rifles and handguns. I've used an electronic spray cleaner through the nipple hole and some concoction, usually windex w/o ammonia, alcohol, murphy's oil soap and some slight variations. I know there's some water in each of these ingredients which is what I mean by avoiding "straight water". Cleaning with this mix takes between 8 and 12 patches to get some semblance of clean - or still mostly white patches. That's not including an oiled patch afterwards. This worked fine for years. I think I got the idea from Dutch's method and just stuck to it.

Due to circumstances on some travel adventures, I did not have or could not get all ingredients for cleaning mixture. So, I went back to boiled water pumped up and down through the barrel with the nipples in the water and a patch on a jag in the muzzle. First, I just started doing the shotguns. Then I cleaned some of the rifles this way too. Today I did some shooting and cleaned some rifles and shotguns. One patch pumping the boiling water. One dry patch up and down. One with 91% alcohol as a drying agent and to evaporate remaining moisture. One patch with oil. Just 4 patches total, the 3rd in sequence coming out clean (mostly white).

I haven't seen any rust or issues since I switched back to boiling water. For my guns that have a fixed barrel, one that cannot be easily removed, I am inclined to continue cleaning with the "concoction" because I don't want water all in the stock, and I can control the cleaning mix on the patches better. But other than those few, I think I'm sticking to the water for ease and efficiency. If its clean, lubed and rust free I don't care how it got there.

if you get the barrel hot enough with the water that it's almost uncomfortable to hold you don't need the alcohol also I've found if I use a oiled patch I have to clean the barrel after the second or third shot oil and black powder don't mix well

 

[ronaldrothb49]

My cleaning solution is water and a little Dawn Dishwashing Soap, it costs pennies to make a gallon of it. I have been doing this for a long times and have tried all kinds of magic cleaning products never found anything that worked better. I will say from my experience I will never put anything containing Hydrogen Peroxide in the barrel of any gun I own ever again. I do wipe between every shot with a slightly damp patch of the cleaning solution. at the end of the day for my flintlocks I plug the touchhole with a tooth pick pour some of the cleaning in the barrel swish it around to coat the barrel and let it sit while I clean the lock. Then dump the solution out of the barrel then use wet patches. 4 or 5 patches later I have a clean patch.
For a percussion I have a nipple I drilled out attach a rubber tube to it stick it in a container of the cleaning solution and start pumping. couple patches and I have a clean patch.
It works for me

 

[Rob M.]

LOL , wow ..... Water patches till its clean , dry patches till dry , an oil patch .....your done .Its a very simple operation ....

 

[The Damned Yankee]

In my classes I teach shooters to keep it simple. Hot water and a little dish detergent is all that is needed on all parts. Thoroughly dry and oil. Next day disassemble, wipe dry (looking for dirt missed) and re-oil. Don't waste money on fancy solvents that may or may not work. But there is always that one guy, who is a mechanic (or shot for years) and always recommends some fancy new high speed, low drag expensive cleaner / degreaser that will take off the finish off anything you spray it on!

 

[Juice Jaws]

I have always used hot, soapy water to clean all parts of the firearm and a boiling water rinse. On the long arms, I use tongs with silicone and a brass funnel to facilitate the pouring of the boiling rinse down the barrel. On the revolvers, I use a pot of boiling water with a colander strainer to hold the parts while rinsing for at least several minutes. The metal gets so hot that the moisture quickly evaporates. On the warm metal, I brush on Ballistol to protect the arm from the elements. I've got special screwdrivers and nipple wrenches to help along the way. This method was taught to me by wise black powder men, who have passed on, and by their past generations. The one important issue that they all stressed was, do not get lazy in maintaining your arm. In my opinion, this is the best way and the cheapest way to keep your friend in pristine condition.

You don't really need BOILING WATER

 

[IT47]

You don't really need BOILING WATER

At 76, been using the boiling water for well over 60 years. For me personally, I feel that it is needed.
It works. Thanks for your comments. This forum allows us to agree to disagree. Best to you.

 

[smoothshooter]

For quite a while I've been avoiding straight water cleaning of my ML's including shotguns, rifles and handguns. I've used an electronic spray cleaner through the nipple hole and some concoction, usually windex w/o ammonia, alcohol, murphy's oil soap and some slight variations. I know there's some water in each of these ingredients which is what I mean by avoiding "straight water". Cleaning with this mix takes between 8 and 12 patches to get some semblance of clean - or still mostly white patches. That's not including an oiled patch afterwards. This worked fine for years. I think I got the idea from Dutch's method and just stuck to it.

Due to circumstances on some travel adventures, I did not have or could not get all ingredients for cleaning mixture. So, I went back to boiled water pumped up and down through the barrel with the nipples in the water and a patch on a jag in the muzzle. First, I just started doing the shotguns. Then I cleaned some of the rifles this way too. Today I did some shooting and cleaned some rifles and shotguns. One patch pumping the boiling water. One dry patch up and down. One with 91% alcohol as a drying agent and to evaporate remaining moisture. One patch with oil. Just 4 patches total, the 3rd in sequence coming out clean (mostly white).

I haven't seen any rust or issues since I switched back to boiling water. For my guns that have a fixed barrel, one that cannot be easily removed, I am inclined to continue cleaning with the "concoction" because I don't want water all in the stock, and I can control the cleaning mix on the patches better. But other than those few, I think I'm sticking to the water for ease and efficiency. If its clean, lubed and rust free I don't care how it got there.

Water is good. Even cold.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

As I've said before, how did our ancestors get by with just plain water and bear grease or tallow?

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Tried a bunch of BP cleaners. Now use water. Works best.

 

[Tenring]

I have always used hot, soapy water to clean all parts of the firearm and a boiling water rinse. On the long arms, I use tongs with silicone and a brass funnel to facilitate the pouring of the boiling rinse down the barrel. On the revolvers, I use a pot of boiling water with a colander strainer to hold the parts while rinsing for at least several minutes. The metal gets so hot that the moisture quickly evaporates. On the warm metal, I brush on Ballistol to protect the arm from the elements. I've got special screwdrivers and nipple wrenches to help along the way. This method was taught to me by wise black powder men, who have passed on, and by their past generations. The one important issue that they all stressed was, do not get lazy in maintaining your arm. In my opinion, this is the best way and the cheapest way to keep your friend in pristine condition.

I do the same, can’t beat hot water and soap.

 

[Mwal]

For 43 years . Just straight water cold or room temp. patch till dry then Barricade and store muzzle down. Just plain works is easy. Why complicate things.

Mwal

 

[Banjoman]

I did some extensive testing and discovered that water from the rain barrel works best for muzzleloader cleaning. The little tadpoles can get to the breech and eat out the crud.

 

[Mad L]

So much over thinking, so much over prepping. I too used to make a chore out of cleaning, I too hated getting water on my stock, under the barrel, into to trigger assembly; tried all the 'hoses' and pumping water up and down with a tight patch (even did a hillbilly comedy skit about it).

Got so tired of making an easy task difficult and messy, got tired of being told "Not On The Dinner Table! TAKE THAT OUTSIDE!!"

Now I just K.I.S.S. it.
No hot water, yes I use a store bought cleaner, less then a dozen patches, a few Q-tips - Done.
No mess, no fuss, never had rust, barrel looks like new.

 

[Okie Hog]

I’ve been using cool water for the longest time without any problems

Tap water works very well for me.

 

[Trigger]

You know?

I can't find info on trying this?

Because of dish soap and water.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Over thinking it again, @Trigger.

It really doesn't get any better than cold water and a spritz of liquid dishwasing soap.

 

[Trigger]

Over thinking it again, @Trigger.

Not really.. it's good stuff?

I use soap and water.. I know it works.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Water is doing the heavy lifting. @Trigger, I have not seen many additives that did not work. Why spend extra money when you don't need to.

 

[Trigger]

 

[Mad L]

You know?

I can't find info on trying this?

Because of dish soap and water.

Borax is great stuff!
I use it when boiling down turkey wing bones to make turkey calls, it is also an ingredient for some methods of skinning and tanning small game.
I used it in the drying process of a couple rabbit feet (still have mine, now years later).
I have also heard it is good for washing wool and I use it when felting knitted caps (no harsh chemicals I think was the claimed 'upside').

The old Borax mule trail (Calif-Arizona) was a good Rattlesnake hunt trip as well (back in the 70s).

But I have never used it to clean firearms.