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What caliber rifle to get?

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JohnCanadian

32 Cal.
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
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I have a good amount of 4f Swiss and 3f Tipple 7. I have no muzzle loading rifles. I live in Canada and would like a flintlock. What caliber is my best bet to use with these powders? Can you recommend a builder or manufacturer? No cap locks or in lines. Just the best bet flintlock rifle. I'm new to this. The purpose is to get into the sport.
Thanks,
John
 
I have a good amount of 4f Swiss and 3f Tipple 7. I have no muzzle loading rifles. I live in Canada and would like a flintlock. What caliber is my best bet to use with these powders? Can you recommend a builder or manufacturer? No cap locks or in lines. Just the best bet flintlock rifle. I'm new to this. The purpose is to get into the sport.
Thanks,
John
Four F is good for priming, Tripple 7 wll not work in a flintlock. Start with a 45 or 50 is my opinion. There are so many options out there, just make sure you get one that has a good lock and a good bore. A poor flintlock lock will discourage a new shooter.
Larry
 
You could try that. I'd probably go 10gr 4f on top the 40gr of 777. Its either gonna go bang, or it wont. That said, I think you're approaching it wrong. Buy the gun you want, then get the powder you need. 4f will always be good flintlock priming powder. 1 pound will last years, if not decades. If you have a lot, trade some for 2f or 3f real black powder. If BP hard to get in Canada? Idk

Half the battle(and fun) of getting a new rifle is shooting it a LOT, trying to figure out "the load" that yields best accuracy. You shoot, then change one variable(powder, charge, ball, patch, lube, etc) taking notes. Limiting yourself to one powder isn't best practice. I have, believe it or not, one gun that prefers Goex 2f and another that prefers Swiss 2f.

You could luck out, buy a Flintlock, load 10/40 4f/777, gun goes bang, hits where you want it to. Or it doesn't, then what? Just trying to be helpful.
 
What about, 4f in the pan and a duplex (say 5gr 4f) with the triple 7 (say 40 gr) in something like a 20 gauge.
Many folks do that due to the subs being more readily available often cheaper. Depending on how finicky the rifle is or what likes you may not even need the duplex. Just prime with the 4f and carry on.
 
Probably not a great idea. 4F burns very quickly and would generate some breech pressure that might not work well in a flintlock/
Not so says a guy from Britain , he speaks of regular use of 4F and in some large quantities in his 10 ga for geese @ big yardage . Look it up here ,he says poppycock to statements like yours . He is a member here and kills most everything he shoots at with 4F just sayin/Ed
 
My 45 cal shoots 777 in the barrel ONLY. Use 4f only in the pan.
I did it once just to see how it was. I reserve the 777 for the six shooter.

I like 40 and 45, but here you can not shoot deer with 40, so 45 won out.
Smackem down real good.

and when you run out of 777 buy some holy black.
 
I have a good amount of 4f Swiss and 3f Tipple 7. I have no muzzle loading rifles. I live in Canada and would like a flintlock. What caliber is my best bet to use with these powders? Can you recommend a builder or manufacturer? No cap locks or in lines. Just the best bet flintlock rifle. I'm new to this. The purpose is to get into the sport.
Thanks,
John
First, we would need to know just what purpose you intend to put this firearm. Will the primary use be shooting at targets or hunting? The finer grade powders you have are best for the smaller powders. Sure, there are successes that have been achieved in smoothbored guns up to 20 gauge. Using modest loads, reasonable patterns can be achieved.

Before caliber, the need is to have a reliable lock. Tripple 7 can be used in a flintlock with uncertain results. The duplex load, using 4F Swiss powder in the pan and 10 grains of 4F Swiss in the pan will ignite the main charge. The best locks are offered by Chamber's, Caywood and Kibler. The second tier of locks made by L&R, Davis or Pedersoli can be tuned to function well.

Used guns based on lock components from the better lock makers or well tuned offerings using L&R or Davis locks might be the best starting point. To conserve on powder, calibers from 36 to 45 would be well advised.

We all have our favorite choice. All are good. Most will be different based on our desired purpose.
 
Could I use the 4f as a main charge in a 32 or 36 cal?
Personally have burned pounds of 4F in 32 rifles. Standard roundball load in my 32s (flint and percussion) is 12 to 15 grains of 4F or 3F. 450 plus shots to a pound and no indication of any problems. Accurate and easy cleanup.
 
John: It's almost impossible to give a recommendation that means anything with no idea what you want to do with this gun. Are you target shooting, hunting, or both? If hunting, what are you hunting? Small game, birds, deer, moose, bear? Are you hunting open areas or are you busting serious brush?

Without this info no one can give you an appropriate recommendation for your intended uses.

You say you currently own no muzzleloaders. Do you have any experience with them at all like friends or relatives that successfully use them that can help once you get one. I just ask because buying a muzzleloader based on powder on hand is not the right way around. Each gun will have a load combination it likes and part of your task is to find that combination. Realistically, this is nothing like a modern firearm or even a modern inline. Not trying to discourage, but going into this with eyes wide open will be a huge benefit.
 
I would use 4f Swiss in whatever, you are not going to "blow up" any gun in good working order. So pick a gun that meets your particular needs. A .50 cal is a good all around gun. Some would swear by a .45, but I just like the extra thump of the .50. Oddly, I rarely shoot a .50, because I got a wide variety of rifles and use a .54 or larger for big game, and something much smaller to plink with. I don't hunt small critters, too big a sissy to shoot a tree rat or cute bunny.

Save the 777 for percussion. Yes, you can make it work in a flint, but it will never be reliable. If it does go off, in MY experience a 50/50 or less chance, you will hear a fffffffffffff, BOOM! Much like a fuse. Some report success with 777 (or Pyro) using real black as a "booster". I would never do that unless it was the only option available. Just my personal observation, but in 50+ years of shooting muzzleloaders, my only two failures to fire using a cap-lock (when the cap itself ignited, I've had bad caps) was using 3f 777.
 
IMG_2022-12-12-20-47-13-128.jpg

Caliber 1, anything less is a toy!
 
i have saw videos where 4f works fine in 45 cal. i would cut the charge a bit but i would have no problem using it. in fact, i have a couple of pounds i will try some in my 36, just haven't got around to it yet. as far as caliber it is according to what it will be used for. a 45 will do a lot, it is fun to shoot, easy on the shoulder, easy on lead and powder, and will kill most anything that needs killin, apart from big bears and such. as far as gun, i know these gets pushed a lot, but there is a reason. a Kibler is very hard to beat for what you get! a custom type rifle at a very fair price. a man with minimal skills can build one and not have to wait a year or more for it to be born,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Here’s my two cents worth (or less).

I would forget about what powder I have on hand for now. I would read and study to figure out what type of muzzleloader I wanted and for what purpose. Do you want to use it for hunting, plinking, formal target shooting, or reenactments?

Even though it’s been discussed till all the paint is gone, here’s my experience with powders and others will agree. Flintlocks work best with real black powder. Percussion guns will work with substitute powders or real black.

Stick with real black powder in 2f or 3f and you can use whatever muzzleloader you want. Been there, done that.
 

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