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What do you use to file down the rear sight?

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DNS

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I have a TVM that I need to sight in this summer. I have read that some use a hack saw blade instead of a file. What do you guys think is the best way? Thanks
 
If you have a lot of metal to remove, protect the barrel with tape and use an angle grinder. Only grind for a moment at a time ( don't allow heat to build up. Finally finish the last little bit with a file and remove any burrs.
 
I assume you're talking about the sighting notch. For that I use a high grade set of needle files I've had for years, two in particular. On has teeth on the narrow edge, but both large sides smooth. That's great for cutting the depth of the notch to where you want it without widening the notch. Another is smooth on the narrow side while toothed on both of the large sides. That one's great for widening the notch to suit.
 
Yep, a set of needle files (diamond and regular) will do the trick. I mostly use a round one to get a "U" notch.
 
Same as Hanshi, round needle file, since I like a half round notch. Most needle files get fatter from the point, so I just scrape back and forth with about a quarter inch of the file. When you're getting close, just scrape two or three times, then check for shape and centering, until you like what you see. I think it's better to start too small, then bring your file to the range, and open it up as you shoot in the outside daylight, under real conditions. Somethimes too small in your shop will be just right when you're actually focussing on target outside. Bill
 
I picked up a set of small files from Home Depot, was $10-$12. There is a small file with square sides and one with round sides, either can be used for the notch. I use a full size file on the front site
 
a file to cut down the top if need be and a needle file for the knotch
 
Look for " Jeweler's files", and you will find what you need.

Use power tools, like the Dremel Tool only if you are assured you can control the movement of the tool. Its really easy for these to get away from your bare hands, and cut too much metal from the wrong place, ruining your prior work, and requiring the purchase of a new rear sight. :thumbsup:
 
Most hardware stores sell sets of "knife files" that are reasonably priced. They are just small files approximately 4 inches long. Some are flat, some are half-round, some triangular.

I used a set of these to work on a rear sight to both increase the depth and the width of the notch, and to reduce the top edge equally on both sides of the notch. As you may already know...if you want to lower your point of impact...reduce the height of the top edge of the sight(don't increase the depth of the notch. Also, you ideally file with a slight downward angle on the front edge of the sight, so you will be looking at a sharp edge when you are sighting your rifle. Otherwise, your sight picture will not be as sharp as it could be. You may already know this stuff, but I was lucky that I read similar advice in this forum before I did this same work just 6 months ago.
 
A correction to my previous post: A "knife file" is actually a specific shape of file, and I have been misusing that term to denote any small file. As the others recommended, "jeweler's" files are what every gun owner needs to have, and a set of them will include a knife file. Hardware stores do sell these files, but I doubt that they call them jeweler's files.
 
You can get cheaper versions from your local hardware store, but this is the set of needle files I got from Brownells about 40 years ago. The advantage of the high priced spread is really clean cutting grooves and edges, all the way out to the tips. If you have lots of other uses for them, I can certainly recommend this better version.
 
Before I retired a took several used files (dull on the flats but unused on the sides) and ground them down to different thicknesses, about 1/4 inch in from the edges . So that I had a set of files of different thickness. These make great files for cutting rear notches , and I also use fine triangular files for the bottom where a "V" grove is required. As the primative range at Friendship requires ( At least used to ). "A notch narrower at the bottom than the top"
 
As the primative range at Friendship requires ( At least used to ). "A notch narrower at the bottom than the top"

Now that is a strange requirement. :shake:
 
I am curious. Is the goal to reshape the opening of your rear sight or to bring the point of aim into correct orientation?

As it was explained to me, most TVMs are built with the expectation that you will lower the front sight a bit and this little bit of work will work for you. A lot of better shooters will then carefully file a slight bevel along the top rear edge of the front sight to catch available light and shine a slight line which is quite visible.

Jewellers files work for these purposes and are quite cheap.

CS
 

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