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What is a good method to straighten a 24" barrel under rib?

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I have a 24" barrel under rib that has about .115" bow in the middle. This is a lateral bow probably which occurred when it was milled. My question: Should I heat any specific side, or just heat uniformly in the middle and put some pressure on it? I tried a gentle cold bend, but this metal keeps springing back.
Larry
 
Barrel or rib? Aluminum or steel? Pictures would really help so we can get an idea of what you're working with.
My OP title

What is a good method to straighten a 24" barrel under rib?​

Sorry, but I fail to understand where anyone would be using aluminum on a traditional muzzleloader. Steel........ Thanks for the reply though.
Larry
 
My OP title

What is a good method to straighten a 24" barrel under rib?​

Sorry, but I fail to understand where anyone would be using aluminum on a traditional muzzleloader. Steel........ Thanks for the reply though.
Larry
Just trying to get a better idea of what you were up against, but you don't have to worry about that anymore. Done and blocked. Thanks for the reply
 
Could you clamp or screw it down, taking the bend out, and heating it ? Not ever having done that, but I would give it a try. I might set my garage on fire, but I’d learn something… :dunno::cool:
 
Could you clamp or screw it down, taking the bend out, and heating it ? Not ever having done that, but I would give it a try. I might set my garage on fire, but I’d learn something… :dunno::cool:
That sounds like it might work, if I had more heat. The only negative side (for me) is that it will need to be clamped/screwed down against metal. The additional metal next to the rib will require more heat than the mapp gas cylinder I have.
Thanks
Larry
 
you are likely going to have to go beyond where it needs to be. it will likely spring back a little unless you get it really hot. i would lay it up on blocks of wood on the ends ,heat the bowed area toward red and use a c clamp at the bend too pull in down. might even work cold depending on what type of steel it is.
 
Try more than gentle bending. And remember Newtons lever and the fulcrum point.
The piece doesn't need a single bend,, it needs to be bent across the radius of the curve.
Anchor point, fulcrum, and shifting across the radius as the pressure is applied.
Don't bend one spot, bend 5 spots.
I wouldn't use heat on a rail piece.
 
Flintlocklar,
why do you care? Any curvature can and will be eliminated when it’s secured. Screws, solder, etc. Clamp it in place, and secure it. No one will ever know.
 
If it is an even curve vs. a kink, leave it alone. If you try to bend it or hammer it you will make it ugly. When you attach it to the barrel it will be pulled straight. 1/8" bow is not much.
 
I have a 24" barrel under rib that has about .115" bow in the middle. This is a lateral bow probably which occurred when it was milled. My question: Should I heat any specific side, or just heat uniformly in the middle and put some pressure on it? I tried a gentle cold bend, but this metal keeps springing back.
Larry
Do you own or have access to an arbor press?
 
Flintlocklar,
why do you care? Any curvature can and will be eliminated when it’s secured. Screws, solder, etc. Clamp it in place, and secure it. No one will ever know.
My concern is that if it isn't straight before I start, then I will be fighting the rib's bow while trying to secure. I assumed it would be better to take the bow out first. I have only done two solder on ribs. Those barrels were octagon and the ribs were straight. Now, I have a bowed rib and need to solder it on a tapered round barrel. Not having the experience I feel a round barrel is not going to help me get it straight.
Thanks
Larry
 
I would place it in the padded jaws of a vice and judiciously work the bend out by applying gentle pressure to the hanging end in the direction I want it to move with one hand, and tapping lightly/gently on the bend near the vise with a rubber or leather hammer in the other.

This will take several relocations of the rib in the vise along the curvature of the bend as stated above, several little bends instead of one large one.

I would go slow and gentle. Repeat the several locations until you can eyeball it's length and not see a bend. No heat, it'll bend/straighten cold.
 
I've soldered on bunches of these. You actually want it bowed in the center because when you clamp it down, it keeps the ends of the rib tight to the barrel.
Maybe I'm wrong but I took it as being bowed to the side.
 
Probably just as easy to take some of the bow out by hand but as stated a bit of bow keeps the ends flat.
 
you do not need a press for this simple task. likely if you put the ends on blocks ,high side up and lean on it lightly it will move. if bent to the side ,fasten a small block of wood to your bench put the curved area against the block and pull the ends by hand. go a little beyond straight to allow for spring back.this is not rocket science
 
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Maybe I'm wrong but I took it as being bowed to the side.
Correct you are! A lateral bow. Done deal though. The replies I received gave me the answer for success. I cold bent it using a C clamp. The trick (for me) was to keep the V shaped rib at the correct angels to the correction bend. I made cross cuts in two wood blocks for the point of the V to insert. The bock on top for the C clamp had the same cross cut to hold the material for the bend. I bent it about 5/16" and it it popped back to a bow. I then compressed it about 1/2" and that did the trick.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Larry
IMG_4731.JPG
 
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