• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

What is best Bore Cleaner?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 7, 2004
Messages
289
Reaction score
2
I am sure I will get all kinds of opinions on this one.....but, what is the Bore Cleaner of choice for most of you out there? I use Butch's Bore Shine & T/C No. 13 and have Hodgon's brand Traditions BP solvent as well. Always follow up with T/C brand yellow Bore Butter after using generous amounts of patched solvents named above first. I use Bore butter on outside as well and on stocks too.

Jim in Idaho
 
Rebel,
You mean just add Murphy's Oil Soap or rubbing alcohol to the water? What ratio?

I used to use back in the 70's boiling water and castile soap in the hot water and plunge the heck out of it. But, with these new bore cleaners out on the market I have been using them and still using boiling hot water as well......as I have currently 3 bottles of the stuff being Butch's, No.13 & Traditions BP solvent. I should be able to add these to the water.... can't I?
Thanks....

Jim in Idaho
 
I've always used Hoppe's #9+, followed by regular #9, then Kroil and then any kind of gun, 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil.

In 30 years I've never used water.

Rat
 
There are many people that clean their rifles with simple tap water and soap. Some like the water hot as in boiling almost, some like it cold. Some use Murphy's Oil Soap, some use Dawn Dish soap. The main thing is this soap and will will remove the fowling out of the barrel and neutralize any elements in the powder that would start to cause rust in the barrel.

It is still important to protect the barrel afterward. I used to be a straight soap and water user. Then once after cleaning with the soap and water and the patches showed they were clean, I put a bore brush on the rod, dunked it in solvent, and scrubbed the barrel. I then ran some solvent patches through it, and they came out dirty.

After finally getting some clean solvent patches to come out of the barrel I then set it outside and poured boiling water through the barrel. After that, with some gloves on, I took the barrel and ran alcohol patches through it, then dry ones until they came out dry and clean.

I do not do the bore butter routine, but to each their own. I then put a high quality gun oil on a patch and swab the barrel and wipe the outside of the metal off. The wood part I use a towel and wipe off, and if need be, some murphy's oil soap and water to clean the stock, then dry that good too.

So my favorite solvents are Butch's Bore Shine, or Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber. I also use MAP from time to time. For oil, I use, REM OIL w/teflon or Birchwood Casey Sheath. Sometimes I will wipe the metal down with BreakFree CLP it seems to be another real good oil....
 
For oil, I use, REM OIL w/teflon or Birchwood Casey Sheath. Sometimes I will wipe the metal down with BreakFree CLP it seems to be another real good oil....


I use T/C brand oil in spray can like WD-40 as it is advertised as #13 Gun Oil water displacing oil for guns.

Jim
 
Plain 'ol Free tap water is all you need. Or you can add a little Murphey's oil soap and alcohol to it if yu want.

Rebel,.... I agree with ya, "water" was clean'n muzzleloader bores fer many generations, long 'fore all the modern cleaners were invented!! :thumbsup: (modern cleaner's were probly some of tha first examples of "re-invent'n tha wheel") :shocking: ::

'Course ya won't see any advertisements in the stores, or magazines, admit'n thet fact!! :youcrazy: :haha: :haha:

YMHS
rollingb
 
Been using tapwater for a loooong time for cleaning. Hot if possible but warm is good enough. This also according to Swedish manuals both military and civil from 1820-1860s. OK, I dry out with cheapest alcohol, from nearest super-market, when the barrel is clean inside. Have tried different oil-brands with less success.On stock I use cooked linseed oil bought per gallon. I mostly deal with original weapons from the period mentioned above.
ARILAR
 
Heck if you just want to mix something up use 50/50 water and antifreeze ...it keeps about ten different metals in your engine from rusting.
 
I'm a hot water & Dawn dish soap guy when it comes to cleaning muzzleloaders, Jim Bob. Scrub and boil the heck out of them and then hit 'em with bore butter. Probably making it harder than it is.

Last couple times, while waiting for the water to boil, I swabbed and brushed out the barrel with warm tap water and some 'Rain Dance' car wash soap that was handy. It seemed to get everything out. When it came time for the Dawn soap and boiling water, neither swab nor brush brought any more dirt out of the barrel.

FWIW
Bob
 
I use Black Solve on all of my black powder rifles. If you put in a spray bottle, you can just spray off your lock after removing it from the stock. No scrubing is necessary. I also use it for cleaning between shots.

Tha lube that I use is TCP.
 
One way is with steaming hot soapy water, hot water rinse, bone dry the bore, and plaster it with some sort of lube that is not oil based
 
I use a mixture of Ballistol and water in a 1:8 (roughly) ratio to clean and follow up with straight Ballistol on everything I can wipe down. This stuff was developed for the German military back when they used corrosive ammo, and it was designed to be used as a cleaner and preservative on metal, wood, and leather gear as well as a disinfectant for minor wounds. :m2c:
 
JimBob,
i personally use old crow bourbon on me and hoppe's
#9 on the barrel :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: both get cleaned. :m2c:
snake-eyes :peace: :) :thumbsup: :)
 
Roundball said it nicely. Warm to hot water and soap with patch and brush should clean everything. You can use alcohol to dry and remove any water and then BB or any good oil of your choice. I remember my dad cleaning his 03A3 with a homemade funnel and hot soapy water it worked then and will work now.
Fox
 
hot soapy water hot rinse dry with paper towels a little rubbing alky, dry paper towel again, and lube.
 
Water is all you need, hot or cold. All the black powder solvents are mostly water. Windex is good, it's mostly water. In the old days sometimes they used urine, it's also mostly water. Main thing is to get it as dry as possible and oil it, don't worry where the oil came from as long as it stops the rust.
 
54ball's Muzzleloader Cleaning 101, The way I do it.
Absolute essentials, Cleaning Jag, Nipple Wrench, Correct size screw driver, Cloth, Gun Oil, Tooth Brush
Impotant essentails, Muzzleloading bore brush," remember a muzzloaing bore brush is made so the bristles will reverse
themselves in the bore, a shotgun type brush may get stuck." range rod with a good handle and muzzle cone, " If a jag gets stuck you can slide the rod agaist something solid letting the handle grip a 2x4 stud, step, or something you dont mind marring up. Pull the rifle or barrel to you like a slide hammer with the handle of the rod sliding into the edge of the solid surface. Make sure your muzzle cone is out of the way or it will deflect the handle. This rarely happens but if you use a dry patch or have a rough bore you need a good rod to take this kind of abuse." A brass tool is made for this that grips the rod but I do not have one. ,Brass punch, Patch worm, hammer.
accesorries, a bore mop.
After the hunt into the cabinet cleaning.
Drive out the barrel keys with the brass punch. If they fall out with minimal thumb pressure they are too loose and need to be tightened up. A few taps with the hammer on the barrel lugs should tighten them up nicely. If this adustment was made you need to sight in the rifle again to make sure the point of aim has not changed. Accuracy will improve if the lugs were loose. Keep the keys in order. Unhook the barrel from the breech. Have a bucket of warm soapy water ready. Wet a patch in the soay water and run it down the bore. If you have a bore brush use it now first. After this intial scrubbing undo the brush and drop it into your bucket or discard the patch. Place the breech of the barrel into the bucket. I like to use a patch 2 inches wide and 6 inches long. Wet this patch and start running it up and down the bore. Keep pumping until the the water starts coming out of the muzzle. Reverse the patch and keep pumping. Sometimes I remove the nipple and snail screw before this step. Always remove the snail screw first then the nipple. Use a correct size screw driver on the snail screw. Change patches and pump some more. It wont take long for the patches to come out clean. Go to a bucket of hot water not boiling but hot tap water is hot enough. Pump again to rinse. Pull the barrel out ond start running dry patches down the bore. The first may come out red from flash rusting. Its OK. If the patch is black you made need to back to the flushing step. When the patch comes out clean. Oil a patch well with oil and swab the bore some more. Use a tooth brush around the nipple area. Make sure to clean well under the nipple and in the corners of the snail area. A nipple pick or pin can be used to scrape this fowling away followed by the tooth brush some more. Make sure the threads on the snail screw and niplle are clean. A Q tip or paper towel rolled up into a piont can be inserted into the nipple and snail screw holes to dry and oil this area. Oil the threads relace the nipple first and then the snail screw. With the right screw driver undo the lock screw take the lock out and brush it clean with a tooth brush then oil it and replace. Oil the outside of the barrle well. A thin coat of linseed oil on the stock is a good idea. A good furniture or paste wax will also work well on the stock. Buff stock and reassemble. It is a good idea to run an oily patch down the bore from time to time when the rifle is not in use. Remember to clean that bore brush if you dont only the stem will be left. I use the bore mop to clean out the oil before firing.
 
Cold water cuts BP fouling the fastest - according to Holland and Holland & it's what I have used for around 35 years. I'v etried others, but always went back to cold tap water.
 
Back
Top