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What load for my new GPR
- Thread starter LarryS
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fyrfyter43
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Maybe if we knew some details, such as caliber, we could help you.
fyrfyter43
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As a general rule of thumb, start with .018" patching (pillow ticking comes to mind) and a ball .010 less than the caliber. For a .50 caliber rifle, try a .490 ball and ticking patches.
If it's a new barrel, you'll need to put a few hundred shots through it before it really comes into its own as far as accuracy. For that, a light powder charge makes sense. Maybe 50 grains of FFFg.
If it's a new barrel, you'll need to put a few hundred shots through it before it really comes into its own as far as accuracy. For that, a light powder charge makes sense. Maybe 50 grains of FFFg.
pa woods roamer
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50grs. of 2F is what I am using in my .50 GPR Flinter. Also use the .018 Wally World Pillow Ticking, lubed with Hoppes Black Powder Solvent. I limit my shots at Deer to 50 yds. and am sure this is enough to poke a nice Hole in one. And, it does take a few hundred Balls run through a new GPR before it is broke in.
My .50 caliber GPR LOVES 55 gr. Goex FFFg with a .018 ticking patch. But you need to work systematically work up a load for your particular rifle. I'd start with 50 gr. powder charge, and work up in 5 grain increments from there. Make sure you keep the same patch thickness throughout your powder load testing.
50 grains of 3f powder, preferably traditional black powder such as Goex and some pre-lubed/pre-cut patches that are .015-.018 thick to start with. Keep things simple for now while you are working up a good load for your GPR. As has been mentioned, Lyman barrels sometimes need to have some final polishing of the bore in order for the best accuracy to be achieved and there are several ways of doing this, the easiest (and most fun IMHO) is to just put about 100 shots through it. There are quicker ways to polish the bore and everyone has their favorite but for now see how it shoots and get comfortable with your new muzzle loader.
Sperit de bois
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Start by reading the Owners Manual,I always read mine after something didn't work,Type Three learner,The guy with the wet paint on his finger,,,,reading the sign,again, "Wet Paint"
I have a Lyman GPR and started with 70 FFF,not the max of 110 FF nor 90 FFF, then worked from there.Got to 85 FFF and that worked just fine.Good reach,knock down,in the target area...didn't hurt to shoot.Shooting PRB.490 good to load.However never pass up a chance to go to the range and shoot lots.
I have a Lyman GPR and started with 70 FFF,not the max of 110 FF nor 90 FFF, then worked from there.Got to 85 FFF and that worked just fine.Good reach,knock down,in the target area...didn't hurt to shoot.Shooting PRB.490 good to load.However never pass up a chance to go to the range and shoot lots.
Sperit de bois
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Correction that 85 gn should read 75,Wouldn't think when you only have to keep track of two fingers it would be that difficult.
pa woods roamer
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If your on the way GPR is a Flinter, one of the best tips I`ve picked up is to put a thick piece of Leather under the Leather wrapped Flint. It changes the Angle the Flint hits the Frizzen. Really helps on the Spark thing and extends the life of the Flint.
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Vearl said:
Maybe coincidence, maybe not, but the load for both my 50 cal GPRs is also 80 grains of Goex 3f, .490 RB, but with .018 ticking patches.
And great point that the GPR only gets better with more shooting. They really start to shine after 200-300 shots.
Hey LarryS-
In either 50 or 54 all the GPRs I've seen are really "forgiving" about powder charges when you have a good match of patch/ball. In my kit 50, the one I shoot most, I get comparable accuracy with my three standard loads- 30 grains, 60 grains, and 80 grains. Hard to beat that.
If you're seeing the same kind of thing, as I expect, deciding how much powder is "enough" will kinda devil you until your make your choice.
Here's a bit of advice- I'd put thought into your normal shooting ranges, then pick a charge and sighting that gives you the most useful trajectory. That's how I settled on 80 grains rather than 70 or more than 80. I'm sighted in dead-on at 75 yards, my normal max range. That 80 grain charge puts my GPR about an inch high at 50 yards and about 3 low at 100 yards when sighted in at 75. If you want to be able to shoot more than 100, mebbe a different sight-in and a bigger charge will be in order. If you don't plan to shoot past 50, then you can certainly get away with less powder.
Enjoy that new gun. There's a learning curve with any new gun including the GPR, but the rewards are great.
BP is better than pyrodex. Longer shelf life. (eternity verses a couple of years) and it smells less evil when cleaning time comes around
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LarryS said:
I used Pyrodex for a long time until I managed to get black in my remote location. Pyrodex requires an extra measure of cleaning and bore care- no matter what the ads say. It can be made to work certainly, but if you have access to black you'll be happier in the long run. I found it necessary to use a hotshot nipple and clean out the flame channel after every 3 or 4 shots with Pyro, but can shoot all day with a standard nipple and no cleaning of the flame channel when using black.
You haven't asked, but here are a couple of quick tips on starting up with a GPR:
Get some brake or carb cleaner and use it with patches to clean the bore. Lyman has some kind of grease in there that is about impossible to get out with other products, yet will cause problems until you get it out. The cleaner renders the bore spotless with only 3 or 4 patches.
The stock Lyman nipple is a poor match with CCI caps. It's fine with Remington in my experience, and other brands according to reports, but if all you can get is CCI, count on some misfires unless you use another "fix": To use CCI, point the rifle downrange, then carefully lower the hammer on a capped nipple. Press firmly on the hammer to fully seat the cap, and you won't have any misfires. The queezy feeling running up and down your spine as you press on the hammer is another matter! I got my replacement nipples from TOW, but others work fine, too.
Finally, accuracy will improve dramatically after 200 or 300 shots through the GPR. It isn't bad to start with, but it will improve dramatically as you shoot it.
eaglesnester
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I have been hearing and reading that trip 7 and pyrodex contain perclorates that will eat the dickens out of barrels in the form of rust. This rusting apparently happens even if you clean properly and promptly after shooting. Is there any truth to this perclorates thing? It seems that as far back as the war between the states that the Union army knew about black powder substutes and abandonded them because of the damage that perclorates caused to bores.
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I'm not a chemist, but I've read the same internet experts banging the same drum. Mebbe so, mebbe not.
But for me, they miss the bigger point for a lotta shooters that can't get black. :dead:
The point is, how do you clean a bore thoroughly even if they're right? Can it be done?
In my experience, yeah. I certainly prefer black for a lot of reasons, but sometimes I have no choice and have to use a sub. I clean my bores thoroughly with room temp water (to avoid flash rusting from hot water) and a little dish detergent, using the bucket and plunger methods. Then I dry it thoroughly and lightly oil it. I check back 4 or 5 days later using a dry patch, and if I get any discoloration on the patch, I clean it again. Been doing it that way for about 30 years since Pyrodex came out and the guns are still fine. Come to think of it, I do the same with real black. Only difference is, sometimes I do get a little discoloration with Pyro on the 5-day checkup with a dry patch, that I am yet to see with black.
It can be used, but with extra care. And BTW- I have found 777 is a lot easier to clean thoroughly than Pyrodex, and nope. I've never found the discoloration later.
Certainly use the black if you can get it. But don't quit shooting if you can't. There's a work-around for the Pyro if you can get past all the :dead:
But for me, they miss the bigger point for a lotta shooters that can't get black. :dead:
The point is, how do you clean a bore thoroughly even if they're right? Can it be done?
In my experience, yeah. I certainly prefer black for a lot of reasons, but sometimes I have no choice and have to use a sub. I clean my bores thoroughly with room temp water (to avoid flash rusting from hot water) and a little dish detergent, using the bucket and plunger methods. Then I dry it thoroughly and lightly oil it. I check back 4 or 5 days later using a dry patch, and if I get any discoloration on the patch, I clean it again. Been doing it that way for about 30 years since Pyrodex came out and the guns are still fine. Come to think of it, I do the same with real black. Only difference is, sometimes I do get a little discoloration with Pyro on the 5-day checkup with a dry patch, that I am yet to see with black.
It can be used, but with extra care. And BTW- I have found 777 is a lot easier to clean thoroughly than Pyrodex, and nope. I've never found the discoloration later.
Certainly use the black if you can get it. But don't quit shooting if you can't. There's a work-around for the Pyro if you can get past all the :dead:
