what nipple wrench do i need?

[Howie1968]

What nipple wrench do i need? my lyman deerstalker will be here tomorrow and ive got a thompson center renegade .50 cal coming. do i need different wrenchse fr these guns or are they universal?

 

[Billnpatti]

The same nipple wrench will work for both rifles. Unless the nipple has been over tightened, this wrench is my favorite http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=14494 You can also get a socket that will fit musket cap nipples if you ever get a gun that uses musket caps.

If you have a nipple that needs the extra oomph to break it loose, this is what you need https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/65/1/NW-120 In use, the length of the T wrench will cause the hammer to be in the way and you will have to remove your hammer in order to get the nipple out. It's a simple task but a necessary one.

The first nipple wrench has the advantage of being a ratchet wrench and is very good for everyday use. But, for those really stuck nipples, I reach for my T wrench like the latter one. I have both but use the ratchet wrench most of the time. But, there are times when only the T wrench will get 'er done. If you can afford both, get both but if you can afford only one, get the T wrench.

If, in the future, you get a rifle that uses musket caps, you will need to buy a musket nipple wrench and if you get a cap and ball revolver, you will need another wrench for revolvers. There are different wrenches for different revolvers so if you ever need to buy a revolver wrench, be sure to get the correct one for whichever revolver you have.

 

[Howie1968]

thank you im gonna get the T wrench

 

[Billnpatti]

Oh, another tip, when replacing your nipple after cleaning it, apply a tiny dab of anti-seize lube such as choke tube lube to the threads of your nipple to make it easy to remove the next time. :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

Yep anti-seize is the way to go on anything involving black powder. :idunno:

 

[Cowboy]

Howie, Just a few words of advice.

1. Do not over tighten your nipple! Many think the tighter the better. It will only wear and weaken the threads in your breech plug. I just snug mine up. Same goes with your lock bolt! Many tighten the hell out of them. Again, only needs to be snug.

2. Do not force your nipple. First off, be sure you have the correct thread size for that specific brand of rifle and note if it's standard or metric. Some end up cross threading them trying to get them on. I start them by hand and hand tighten it as far as I can go. Then I use the nipple wrench to just snug it up a little. That is all that is needed.

3. Lastly, As mentioned already, use some anti-seize on your nipple threads and cleanout screw threads. I use BC Choke Tube Lube. Comes in a .75 OZ tube. I have been on the same tube for several years now. I just put a very small dab on the end of a toothpick and apply. It doesn't take much to do the job. Any high temp. anti-seize will work.

Hope this will give you a few things to think about!

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

 

[Howie1968]

Thanks that helps a bunch, on my lyman i dont npotice a cleanout screw like on my old guns i do see a small allen head i belive.

 

[Vaino]

First off...have never applied a lube or anti-seize to a stainless steel nipple which most are.

My first "build" was a TC Hawken "kit" which came w/ a nipple wrench, but the caplocks I built all had nipple wrenches that I made and they work flawlessly. Making a nipple wrench is quite easy and I base the wrench height when the hammer is at half cock......Fred

 

[Vaino]

here's a nipple wrench that I made w/o a lathe. Just a drill press and a file. The chamfer allows the wrench to fit inside the snail on some caplocks. Made from a length of 3/8 round stock and the handle is 3/16 dia. Doesn't take but a 1/2 hour to make....at the most.....Fred

 

[Cowboy]

Thanks that helps a bunch, on my lyman i dont npotice a cleanout screw like on my old guns i do see a small allen head i belive.

Yes, That is your cleanout screw. I put a little anti-seize on the threads. I do not take it in and out each time I clean my bore though.

The suction action created by moving your cleaning rod up and down in your bore will move the water through your firing channel. This will do a really good job and remove any residue or build up.

I do remove the cleanout screw every now and then and run a small pipe shank brush through the firing channel just for peace of mind but is not necessary.

I do keep anti-seize on the threads though. They are notorious for seizing up if you do nothing with them.

Respectfully, Cowboy