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What supplier sells Aqua Fortis (Nitric Acid)?

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rootnuke

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This will probably fall in the dumb question category. But everyone talks about Aqua Fortis but I never seem to find it in any builders catalogs. When I google for it I get laboratory education suppliers.

So who sells this stuff? ::
 
To my knowledge, no one does. You have to make it yourself. You will need to find a source of nitric acid. After that, it's pretty simple.
 
:shake: Better to buy as a walkin. There is the hazMat fee on top of shipping. :boohoo: :cry: ::
 
To my knowledge, no one does. You have to make it yourself. You will need to find a source of nitric acid. After that, it's pretty simple.

I found some Laboratory Chemical Suppliers that sell Nitric Acid. Aside from the actual process with the stock, heat application etc. What do you have to make?

I have read about some putting iron nails and cutting the Nitric Acid 50%,...I thought that was all there was to it.

To be honest I had planned on stearing away from Aqua Fortis, (Nitric Acid). However as I aproach the end to relief carving and get to the final fitting, staining stage, I seem to be drawn by its possibilities. :hmm:
 
OK... Depending on where you are in Texas, you may have a pretty high mineral concentration in the water. I'd use bottled water. You can get a gallon at Wally World for dirt.

Almost any source of iron will work. I used steel wool. Nails, scraps of cold rooled steel, just anything thats not zinc plated or painted is OK. I'd cut the acid a good bit. I used 8 oz. of 40% acid and added 32 oz. of water. Always add acid to water slowly! Add the "iron" until it will not dissolve easily. Cap it loosly so it can vent and leave it alone. You will notice that it will seperate into a sludge and an amber liquid. Before I use it I mix it, but it's not required. After it's finished reacting and venting, cap well, in about 24 hours.

Now for the warnings.

1) DO NOT BREATHE THE BROWN FOG MADE BY ADDING THE "IRON."
2) THE VAPOR IS VERY CORROSIVE.
3) KEEP A SOLUTION OF BAKING SODA AND WATER AVAILABLE IN CASE OF A SPILL OR CONTACT WITH SKIN.
4) WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION WHEN HANDLING ACID.
5) STORE IN A PROTECTED PLACE WHERE A SPILL CAN BE CONTAINED AND THE CONTAINER IS UNLIKELY TO BE BROKEN.

I realise this is a lot of work, but worth it in the end.
 
Or you can convince Eric Kettenburg to make more of his home brew.

nironstain.jpg
 
The recipe of the original Wahkon Bay Aquafortis given by Mr. Young (on another board) called for 10 oz. nitric acid,plus 8 oz. muriatic(hydrocloric) acid, and 2 0z. iron nails. After the fuming, add water to dilute to 40 oz. total for stock stain.
Regards,
Terry
 
The end result of mixing nitric acid and iron is ferric nitrate. Ferric nitrate solution added to wood and the dry wood surface then heated produces the color of Aqua Fortis stain.

Rather than going through the chemical synthesis of AF which is exothermic and toxic, you can also mix up some AF stain solution by adding water to ferric nitrate crystals. The resulting solution is essentially the same (pH maybe slightly different depending on how you brew your homemade AF) and produces the same color on heating. Ferric nitrate crystals can be inexpensively purchased from the Science Company and others. This link should take you to ferric nitrate: http://secure.sciencecompany.com/thesciencecompany/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=602

I did exactly this several months ago. I really like the color and the ease of use. I mistakenly bought enough crystals to do hundreds of guns (One bottle will last a long time).

regards, dan.
 
Well I googled around this morning and found a laboratory supplier. I was stopped in my tracks when I discovered that to buy a 12 oz. bottle of Nitric Acid for $12.00 came with a %$%#@#% $34.00 HAZ MAT shipping charge. OUCH!

I ended up finding it locally. For the whats its worth department, what I did was just look-up Industrial chemical suppliers in my area and called them up.

So how much was this strong water, Aqua Fortis or also known as Nitric Acid...

(1) Gallon Nitric Acid 62% $12.00

... now I just need to figure out the proper formula cut with water based on the 62%. I'm not sure if I understand what the 62% means. 62% of the the gallon is Nitric Acid and the balance is water.

If anyone knows what the cut is supposed to be then give this thread a shout.
 
I have enough Nitric Acid (3 Gallons) to experiment with, of which I think could make enough stain for 100 rifles or so. hahaha

But check this out....

http://www.octobercountry.com/products3.php?productid=493

now back to the making it yourself -

As I understand it, aqua fortis is straight nitric acid or HNO3. By adding the steel wool until no more dissolves, you have made it into iron nitrate FeNO3 and have bubbled off the hydrogens as gas. The hydrogens ions were much more reactive that the iron ions that replaced them. This is the same general relationship as hydrochloric (muriatic) acid has with ferric chloride. With that said, washing the stock with common baking soda to neutralize the Nitric Acid after it is applied to the stock is mute because by adding the iron (steel wool) into the pure Nitric Acid until it will not eat it any more you have effectively turned the Nitric Acid into Iron Nitrate so there is nothing to neutralize.

To sum it up, just apply the iron nitrate (Nitric Acid + steel wool) to the stock or wood sample, heat it to get the level of brown you desire to the stock and apply your finish. In my reading the finish (applied with 0000 steel wool) could to start out with many coats of Linseed oil cut 50% with Turpintine, then a final coat(s) of True oil cut 50% with Turpintine.
 
This is what intrigues me regarding Aqua Fortis, it doesn't dye the wood or use a ground pigment, rather it changes the color of the wood cells themselves without introducing a layer of colored goo atop the wood to obscure the grain.

I think this lack of dye / pigmentation is the key to the unique look and that makes the grain so clear and vivid.
 
Rootnuke,
Interesting comment from the guy selling AF at[url] octobercountry.com[/url] about his product producing a green tint. Consistent with what others are saying about chromium stains and green is generally despised.

You are correct about Aqua Fortis being straight nitric acid, but the stain (as far as I can determine) is always nitrated iron. Some list contributors claim that straight nitric acid augments the figure in maple making it really pop. Others are saying that other hydrocarbon solvents such as acetone also cause the figure to pop out.

You summary is good, however using steel wool requires careful removal of the iron bits as you add layers of finish. Otherwise iron can become embedded in the finish and effect the quality of finish. A good source of heat can be those hot air guns used in model making that get over 400 degrees F. Traditionalists use a red hot piece of iron. Some recipes of home brew AF result in a low pH stain (too little iron or too much acid), which is why they recommend neutralizing with b soda.
Good luck and post a picture of two of the result. -d.
 
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Regarding how the color happens, it appears to be similar to a sugar Maillard reaction. With heat the wood molecular structure changes color, like carmelizing. Because there are no opaque dyes with AF, the wood has great clarity (after finish is applied). Analine dyes (water or alcohol based) do the same thing. They appear muddy after application, but as the finish (shellac, french polish, drying oils, varnish) gets laid down, the figure comes out. The resulting finish on figured wood such as fiddleback maple really showcases the figure probably because the light gets reflected nicely from the wood fibers in the figure and isn't obscured by opaque pigment particles.
-d
 
Because of many "poo-pooing" Linseed Oil for its lack of durability I think my finish will be only 1:1 True-Oil:Turpintine. I think I am correct to say that cutting the True-Oil is purely for the purpose of saturation into the wood and no other.

No Linseed oil will be used in this process.

The tennie-wennie steel fibers from steel wool are concerning. And I agree that the finish could be compromised with those little steel wool boogers getting everywhere and in every nook and cranny.

I think I shall stick to denim, "croaker sack" (burlap) or maybe a little scrubby pads for working in the finish. I recieved with my Rottenstone kit from Brownels some pads that should work well.
 
one thing you might do is to cut a two inch square of 400 wet and dry paper and dip in your oil mixture and sand in the first two coats a small area at a time; use circular motion ...the small amount of sand powder mixed with the oil makes the stock glass smooth. :results:
 
Here is a formula that I'm quoting directly from the book "The modern Kentucky Rifle" by R.H. McCrory, Copywright 1968 "The wood is first treated with a mixture of one part nitric acid and four parts water. Your druggest can mix up a couple ounces of 70% assay acid and water for about 24 cents. Just paint it on and let it dry. Then apply heat from a torch or over a gas flame to cause the acid surface to turn a blushing reddish brown. Take note that it is not intedewd to burn the wood. When the surface is heated sufficiently it will abruptly turn color. Be careful not toburn or char thin sharp portions. Next mix up some baking soda, about half a cup of water and a tablespoon of soda and paint the stock with this to neutralize any acid. after it dries, repeat the soda water treatment again. The nitric acid treatment gives a reddish undertone to the finished stock. Actually, if the stock were oiled after the soda water treatment a very nice chestnut brown finish would result. The next step provides the very dark brown which penetrates into the more porous areas and causes the contrast in the final finish. a stain is made by dissolvingabout 1/2 teaspoon of Potassium Permaginate in an ounce or so of water. This chemical can be bought at your local druggist. in crystal form for about 25 cents per ounce, which will make a lot of stain. The stain is a purple colored liquid which dies the wood a dark brown. (It does the same to clothes and skin, and won't wash off) Paint the stock with several coak-ts of the stain, until its almost black, and allow to dry. When dry it will be lighter in color. paint a couple more coats on and allow to dry again, at which time it gives an almost charred look. We now coat the stock with linseed oil and rub it in with steel wool. This a messy operation but keep at and use plenty of linseed, wipingit clean occasionly to observe the progress you are making. After a few strokes the color will begin to lighten. Keep rubbing until the desired color is obtained The finish will lighten some when the linseed dries." This is the third edition of this book, that I used back in 1973 when I built my first rifle, obviously the prices and help of the druggest probably don't apply anymore. As I recall it was messy to do but worth the effort, and the color is very much like the examples you posted. I haven't built a gun in about twenty years and am just getting back into it after retiring from network engineering, and need something to do over the long cold winter that's approaching. We've already had 36 inches of snow to date, and it's 8 below outside, and winter doesn't start until Tuesday. Your sight and project gun are fantastic, and inspiring. Good Luck
 
This will probably fall in the dumb question category. But everyone talks about Aqua Fortis but I never seem to find it in any builders catalogs. When I google for it I get laboratory education suppliers.

So who sells this stuff? ::
Track of the Wolf, muzzleloader supply
 
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