What the heck, rust?

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What happened here? After shooting half a dozen shots with Pyrodex, I swabbed the bore with some lubed patches before leaving the range. Once I got home I swabbed the bore with four T17 lubed patches (I flipped them over and used both sides). Between the 3rd and 4th patch I ran a .54cal brush down the bore. It was looking good so I set the Lyman aside while I cleaned some other rifles. I let the T17 soak (just a very light coat) and was going to finish up and protect the bore later.
The next day I pulled out patches 5-8. What the heck? Temp in the shop was 67F overnight with 45% humidity. The T17 bottle says right on it "contains a protectant that inhibits rust".
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Clean with water, let it sit muzzle down in the corner. Clean you lock, nipple, and whatever else. Couple of dry patches down the bore, then one with dubya d 40 or denatured alcohol to displace any water, one more dry patch to make sure, then saturate a patch with Birchwood Casey's Barricade. Works for me anyway. Good luck with her👍
 
Pyrodex can cause rust much faster than real BP. Do as snakebit described above , clean well with water pumping a patch on a rod, dry patches till dry and clean, then alcohol to remove any traces of water, a few dry patches then a well oiled patch. Before shooting again swab with an alcohol patch to remove oil.

Water has been the preferred bore cleaner for 400 years.
 
I shoot Pyrodex and have no rust problems at all. Use home made corrosive caps too. I usually clean the same day using room temp water and window cleaner. Dry well and slop in Ballistal. The cap spray does go all around the breach ,lockplate and hammer and need cleaning off or bad things happen.
 
I shoot Pyrodex and have no rust problems at all. Use home made corrosive caps too. I usually clean the same day using room temp water and window cleaner. Dry well and slop in Ballistal. The cap spray does go all around the breach ,lockplate and hammer and need cleaning off or bad things happen.
Exactly my regimen with pyrodex too, luckily the home made caps / pyrodex film on everything is disgusting so it encourages immediate action
 
Pyrodex can cause rust much faster than real BP. Do as snakebit described above , clean well with water pumping a patch on a rod, dry patches till dry and clean, then alcohol to remove any traces of water, a few dry patches then a well oiled patch. Before shooting again swab with an alcohol patch to remove oil.

Water has been the preferred bore cleaner for 400 years.
Water worked for me for over 30 years so it is back to water I go.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
In my opinion, when shooting Pyrodex you need to do the bucket of water cleaning method twice. Pumping water through the barrel with the patch on a jag, maybe even also using a brush. Then after the barrel is clean use a second bucket full of clean, plain water and pump it through the barrel to rinse the residue out of the bore. Pyrodex fouling needs to be diluted and flushed out otherwise you get those kind of rust stained patches.
 
I shoot Pyrodex and have no rust problems at all. Use home made corrosive caps too. I usually clean the same day using room temp water and window cleaner. Dry well and slop in Ballistal. The cap spray does go all around the breach ,lockplate and hammer and need cleaning off or bad things happen.
I have used a lot of Pyrodex as well and never had a problem? I have one rifle I bought in the eighties and it is all that has ever been used in it and the barrel is fine? I use water, soap with patches made from old tee shirts. I lay the barrel over two burners on our cooking range and get it very hot to drive away moisture. I then use 3in1 oil and wipe the bore real good. The next day I run a patch down the Barrel to remove the oil and reoil it! If I see the least bit of rust I will run multiple patches down the barrel and re oil again. I think it is lack of cleaning or waiting to long to clean that is the problem. Black powder will cause a barrel to rust if not cleaned as well.
 
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