What to finish antler powder measure with?

[Leatherbark]

Made me one a few hours ago.............Very meticulous drilling ,but I have an 80 grainer drilled out. I'm wondering do I stain the outside and tru oil it? Do I use some type of sealer on the inside to make the powder flow smoothly?..................Thank you.,,,,,,,,,,,Bob

 

[AeroncaTAL]

I made my first antler measure recently. I dyed it with the horn that it went with in RIT fabric dye. I am not sure how well that will hold up. I have read where I believe vinegar will stain the antler, that might be worth a try. I was on some taxidermy forums last night researching staining repairing bleached antlers. A lot of the taxidermists will paint the antlers to replicate the natural coloration. Painting an antler powder measure will probably not hold up either. Another option is to use Potassium Permanganate, which is another technique taxidermists use on antlers...
Scott

 

[Rancocas]

Varnish

 

[J.M.]

Use Fiebings leather dye. Dilute it with alcohol to lighten the color, some of the dyes are very dark. After it dries if you buff it with a paper towel it will shine it up and take off any excess not absorbed. I then put on a coat of Butchers Wax and lightly buff with a rag. This gives it a nice patina.

 

[Maestro]

A bath of boiled onion skins will give it a nice color. (I've also heard of potassium permanganate being used.)

 

[Rogue River]

Shoe Polish! :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

You can use any number of dyes, to color the antler. When you are finished staining the antler, coat the horn with varnish, or lacquer to protect the color from wearing off. When the varnish or lacquer dried, you can maintain it by giving the measure a coat or two of wax after every use. Any wax works, from furniture wax, to car, and boot waxes, to expensive antique waxes. Use what you already have.

Because Antler is actually made up of minerals, its NOT porous like wood. The Stain is not going to " sink" in deeply on an antler. That is why you need to cover it with a protective finish like varnish or lacquer.

Marine Varnishes have special Ultra Violet light blockers in them, so that the varnish does not "Yellow" over time and exposure to sunlight. If you decide to use a varnish, make sure its for outdoor use, and has the blockers in it.

Lacquers don't have this, and a lacquer finish can become "cloudy" if exposed to sunlight. But, Lacquer can be easily removed with Alcohol, so that you can re-stain if desired, and then re- coat the antler with a new finish.

I have simply used stock finish "oils" to protect antlers I have used to make knife handles in the past. When the " oil " dries, I coat the handles with wax, and then buff the handle. When I am cleaning up my gear after a trip to the field, or range, I put more wax on the handles before storing the knives. ( Oil the blade, after cleaning them off of any organic matter.) The Sheaths get some Neetsfoot Oil treatment if they seem to be drying out. If a leather sheath or other gear is already dried, I take out my saddle soap and give the leather a good rubbing before it goes into my closet for storing.

Take your choice. The leather dye sold by shoe repair shops for dying shoes and boots seems to work on antlers as well as anything else I have tried, or seen used.

 

[Leatherbark]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I have some spar varnish in a spray can I'll use after I stain it. I am in the process of making an Antler knife and I'll do the same to the handle.................Bob

 

[soggy]

You haven't said if the antler was "bleached out" or if it still has some of it's natural colour. If it's still got most of it's original colour I'd leave it and use it the way it is. Let the sweat from your hands, the blackpowder, patch lube, and any other dirt that the measure comes in contact with do the "dyeing' for you. It will give it character . :hmm: .........I doubt that any old originals were dyed
Just :2

 

[Goldhunter]

I've used Potassium Permangenate to darken engraving/ carving. It seems to stay and not ware off.

 

[atki]

I rub mine with patch lube (Lehigh Valley) and then blackpowder. Let it sit for five to ten minutes and then rub it off the high spots. If you were out in the wild country of the early 1800's you would not be dying or staining it. you would use it with bear grease and blackpowder.

WB

 

[Black Hand]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I have some spar varnish in a spray can I'll use after I stain it. I am in the process of making an Antler knife and I'll do the same to the handle.................Bob

Forget the varnish, stain etc. and let it age naturally. The antler doesn't need anything to protect it, though maybe a bit of stain (simmered in tea or coffee) to darken it a bit doesn't hurt....

Your greasy hands while shooting will give it all the "lubrication" it will need.

The one I use looks like ivory, and was made from an elk antler. It is a creamy white with some grey streaking

 

[gmww]

I was thinking a bath in some dark tea would give it a nice appearance.

 

[Leatherbark]

It is not bleached as I took the deer last fall, so it is a brownish graying color. Bob

 

[Maestro]

Bob... just thought you might like to see what the onion skin bath will look like (1st and 3rd from the left in the photo):

:hatsoff:

 

[catman]

That's a good look using the onion skin bath. If I may ask how are you doing it?

 

[Rogue River]

If you have the natural color in the antler forget the varnish, shellac ect. Just use a paste wax and have a natural finish. Using it will give it a nice finish!

 

[Deadeye]

I make a lot of these and antler will take a high polish. The only reason to use a stain is to cause any writing or disign to show up otherwise polish it and leave it be.
Deadeye

 

[omarick1948]

Spray varnish will flake or chip off over time. Just hand rub some tallow or/and bee's wax on it and it's good to go! .... That's probably all the old timer's did!

Rick