What's causing this?

[longcruise]

The wrinkles Could be causd by the mold not being clean. Very slight amounts of storage protectant or sprue cutter lube can cause that but will usually clear itself after a bit.

another thing related to mold cleanliness is debris in those little breather lines on the mold faces. Those are ther to allow respiration of air between the inside and outside of the mold. They can be cleaned by getting the mold hot and running a pointed wood thingy in the tiny grooves. A toothpick or even better a sharpened tip of a bamboo skewer.

and , with all that said, I agree with the consensus opinion that mold or lead temps or both are not high enough. The side burner on your bbq is probably not a high pressure burner with its own independent regulator and that is a formula for temp problems.

also, there are differences in how steel and aluminum molds retain heat.

 

[ZUG]

Yeah bugger, not much I can do about that unfortunately with my setup. I've not noticed it previously, mind you I did this session outside, normally do it in the shed where it's more protected from wind etc.

You just answered your own question

 

[Urban Coyote]

Kind of makes one wonder the quality of ball when cast at fireside by our ancestors using bag molds.

 

[nhmoose]

About what OP shows IMHO

 

[52Bore]

Like others have stated - still not hot enough.
With that size ball, when things are hot to cast good - you should have to wait a few seconds for the lead on the spur plate to solidify, before opening the mold.
If you don’t have a thermometer- your lead should be on the verge of turning slightly gold, if it starts turning blue, turn it down just a little.
Good luck.

 

[oldwood]

Lightly Wrinkled balls , for all intents and purposes , are OK to use ,unless shooting over 50 yds. . Heavily wrinkled balls go back in the pot. I avoid wrinkled balls by using properly heated lead , HOT , make sure the sprue plate is hot enough as well as the mold itself.

 

[Pete G]

Lightly Wrinkled balls , for all intents and purposes , are OK to use ,unless shooting over 50 yds. . Heavily wrinkled balls go back in the pot. I avoid wrinkled balls by using properly heated lead , HOT , make sure the sprue plate is hot enough as well as the mold itself.

I’ve been using slightly wrinkled balls for years...

 

[oldwood]

YUP !

 

[Rock Home Isle]

I noticed on the last batch of balls I did the bottom had these notable "wavy lines" for lack of a better word.

The balls shown are all weighing out within 1 grain of one another.

I didn't think it was a temp thing but I'm not sure?

The straight lines are obviously from where the two edges of the moulds meet. I'm not sure if anything can or needs to be done there. It's just a Lee aluminium mould for my .600 fusil balls.
View attachment 159443

You’ve got flow-lines…you need to be a bit higher temp when running ball. Best thing I ever bought for casting lead, was a lead thermometer…

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBPGYV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I get my best pours between 700 and 725. Once the mold comes up to temp…you’ll have perfect balls.

 

[longcruise]

I get my best pours between 700 and 725. Once the mold comes up to temp…you’ll have perfect balls.

How does your thermometer hold up to use. I've gotten along without for ages but am thinking that my casting would improve with one.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

How does your thermometer hold up to use. I've gotten along without for ages but am thinking that my casting would improve with one.

I turn on the lead pot, once the lead is melted, I drop in the thermometer in the pot. Let it come to temp, and then adjust the pot so that the temp falls between 700 & 725. Heat up the mold, and start pouring.

If I get low on lead, drop in more…watch the temperature swing on the thermometer. Once I’m back in my temp range, I continue pouring.

Finish my casting, pull the thermometer, shut off the pot and let everything cool down.

I’ve been using that thermometer for 2 years now. Works like a charm. No more frosty balls, because it’s too hot; no more flow lines, because it’s too cold.

 

[longcruise]

@Rock Home Isle I use a pot on a propane burner. Do you think it would work under those conditions?

 

[Rock Home Isle]

@Rock Home Isle I use a pot on a propane burner. Do you think it would work under those conditions?

If you can turn the flame up, and turn the flame down…it should work fine.

 

[longcruise]

Thanks. My main concern is there's a lot of heat rising along the outside of the pot.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

Thanks. My main concern is there's a lot of heat rising along the outside of the pot.

If you can control the gas flow, you’ll be able to control the temperature in the lead pot.

 

[hanshi]

I don't cull lightly wrinkled ball and have always used them for everything from hunting to postal matches. My ancient Lee bottom pour pot is on it's last legs or maybe even simply "leg". It may be necessary for me to go back to my iron pot and dipper next time I cast. Ball doesn't have to drop from the mold perfect and smooth to shoot right along with ball that does.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

I don't cull lightly wrinkled ball and have always used them for everything from hunting to postal matches. My ancient Lee bottom pour pot is on it's last legs or maybe even simply "leg". It may be necessary for me to go back to my iron pot and dipper next time I cast. Ball doesn't have to drop from the mold perfect and smooth to shoot right along with ball that does.

My old Lee Pot is down to its toes…I finally gave up and ordered a new one, this time I went for the 20 lb pot. Tracking says it should be here Wednesday…

 

[longcruise]

I had a bottom pour lee pot and got fed up with the dripping. I went to a cast iron pot on an old school white gas Coleman stove with a propane converter and a Lyman dipper.

 

[Sun City]

Got to run 750F-800F and preheat your mould over a gas burner before starting! When you hold the mould about 4" away from your cheek and you feel the heat....you can start then!!

 

[longcruise]

@Sun City true dat.