what i do with wheel weights is melt them down and keep shimmingthe tin off until my lead takes on a bluish color.
once you reach that color it's almost pure lead.
this takes a lot of time and effort to do .
since wheel weights have a not of tin and antimony ,your yield of pure lead will be about 1/3
hello brushbuster. when you keep skimming the tin off you say that YOU WIND UP WITH 1/3 OF YOUR WEIGHT IN lead,how is this possible? 2/3 of your weight would be in tin and antimony ,woulden't this be awfully hard for wheel weights? I really want to know as I have about 400# of weight metal. and does it really seperate that well ::what i do with wheel weights is melt them down and keep shimmingthe tin off until my lead takes on a bluish color.
once you reach that color it's almost pure lead.
this takes a lot of time and effort to do .
since wheel weights have a not of tin and antimony ,your yield of pure lead will be about 1/3
I've used wheel weights (WW) for years. I use soft lead (SL) in my revolvers and my new flint. My mustkets shoot WW best. I have found that overall the WW will shoot about 4-6 inches lower at 25 yds.
WW is harder but lighter, SL is softer but heavyer
Some people swear that WW will wear out the rifling in your gun. I disagree...big time....
The only way that can happen is if the lead touches the rifling and if that happens then the patch will be cut, which means to thick of patch or to big of ball.
CORRECTION:
I found that overall the SL will shoot about 4-6 inches lower at 25 yards :sorry:
:results: :m2c: :: ::
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