Where to buy pewter

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pondoro

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I want to cast a pewter bolster. Where can I buy it? Is there a specific type that I need to get a low temperature melt?

Thanks
 
You can use plumbers solder, 95-5. The difference is very minor. There is also a plumbers solder that contains a bit of nickel. This is even better. It is harder, and keeps it's shine longer.
 
95-5 of what elemental metals?

Shipping on Pewter makes it very expensive to buy on line, $6 per pound turns into $12 per pound.

Thanks
 
Another thing to bear in mind, is that 50-50 lead solder can be legally called pewter. There is no one formula for pewter, only different grades.
 
Check this site:
http://www.rotometals.com/_c_1.html?gclid=CMKTvN_MqJICFQkqIgodgik1NA

I don't know what you mean about a low melting point, but you may prefer to use something like Cerosafe, or Cerobend, which have melting points near 160 degrees, rather than the 466 degrees neede to melt the Non-lead pewter, made of tin, antimony, and copper. Check with Track of the Wolf, or Brownell's for the cerosafe, or cerobend.

These have been used successfully for muzzle caps, or " nose caps on half stock rifles. Other than their softness, I can't think of any reason they could not be used on a knife handle.
 
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Probably a mess, but not much left of the bolster. I made my bolster out of a piece of cold roll steel scrap from the scrap box in my high school's machine shop classroom.

The gentleman is asking about Pewter, because he is indicating he wants to cast a bolster with it. Unless he uses the tougher stuff with copper in it, sold to use where a bearing surface is needed, I don't think his pewter bolster is going to withstand much work or punishment, although it will survive boiling water.

Come to think of it, I don't remember ever putting a knife bolster into boiling water.
 
paulvallandigham said:
The gentleman is asking about Pewter, because he is indicating he wants to cast a bolster with it. Unless he uses the tougher stuff with copper in it, sold to use where a bearing surface is needed, I don't think his pewter bolster is going to withstand much work or punishment, although it will survive boiling water.
Paul you're showing your ignorance again - THOUSANDS of 19th Century knives were built with pewter bolsters and many are still in use today. I've built knives (as do many other fine makers) with pewter bolsters and end caps and they hold up just fine when the knife is used properly (not as a hammer or a pry bar).
And not just bolsters or butt caps - entire guards have been made with pewter - one of the best examples can be seen here built in 1864: http://home.att.net/wsb-cgi-bin/ss...GroupID=128240&Owner=t.glazener&SiteID=790896
 
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Gray Wolf said:
paulvallandigham said:
The gentleman is asking about Pewter, because he is indicating he wants to cast a bolster with it. Unless he uses the tougher stuff with copper in it, sold to use where a bearing surface is needed, I don't think his pewter bolster is going to withstand much work or punishment, although it will survive boiling water.
Paul you're showing your ignorance again - THOUSANDS of 19th Century knives were built with pewter bolsters and many are still in use today. I've built knives (as do many other fine makers) with pewter bolsters and end caps and they hold up just fine when the knife is used properly (not as a hammer or a pry bar).
And not just bolsters or butt caps - entire guards have been made with pewter - one of the best examples can be seen here built in 1864: http://home.att.net/wsb-cgi-bin/ss...GroupID=128240&Owner=t.glazener&SiteID=790896
I concur with Chuck. I've used pewter on many of my knives and have NEVER had one fail due to inferior materials.
As far as where to buy pewter, try your local thrift stores. Look on the bottom of bowls, vases, candlesticks, etc.. It is usually marked as such. Also you should be able to bend it a little with your hands. Watch out tho for cast aluminum, ain't worth a hoot (but thats another story :wink: )...Bud
 
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I just cast a bolster from 95-5 solder. It could look better, I will try again, but my first result is usable. Thanks for the advice!
 
The pewter flatwear handles, bolsters, and hilts I have seen all have been beat up pretty good, Chuck.

I have had some that I found at Friendship, and at an occasional estate sale that looked new, but many showed scars from rough handling. I have no idea what allow of pewter was used in these handles, bolster, and hilts, of course, but all were done with Lead based pewter, not the Tin based stuff you see today.I would like to think that the reason I see so many that are beat up is because folks are keeping the knives and other utensils that are still in good shape, and just putting out the junk to get rid of it and make some money. The stuff I find in flea markets shows badly rusted blades, cracks,chips, and gouges in the handles, whether wood, antler, or bone, and knicks in the pewter bolsters.

I used to be interested in casting lead pewter to make toy soldiers, because the alloy made a stronger casting, for the finer parts.
 
Paul,
The Britannia Pewter sold by Track and R.E. Davis sure seems harder than the Pewter containing lead that they sale.
Ken
 
Packdog: That is why I suggested it for casting bolsters on knives and such. It is harder, because there is NO lead in it. Adding even a small amount of copper begins to give the pewter properties found in bronze, a Tin and Copper alloy. Bronze is a much tougher metal, than lead based, or even tin based pewter alloys.
 
What is the melting point of Britania pewter? I might try to make some with copper shavings and 95-5 solder.
 
I think it is around 450 degrees and reaches its flow temp around 500 degrees.
In my shop it melts at whatever temp the little Colman stove reaches in just a minute or two.
 
pondoro said:
What is the melting point of Britania pewter? I might try to make some with copper shavings and 95-5 solder.
Don't know what kind of copper you're using,but it don't melt till about 1700 degrees...
 
Copper filings in molten tin/antimony will dissolve into the matrix at below 1700 F. You could probably easily do this with a propane torch.
 
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