White Lightening Touch Hole Removal

[Rokon]

I NEED TO INSTALL A NEW WHITE LIGHTENING TOUCH HOLE UNIT.

THE OLD ONE WAS FILED FLUSH WITH THE BARREL AND THERE'S NO SCREWDRIVER SLOT TO WORK WITH.

HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE ORIGINAL MAKER DID TO SEAL THE THREADS.

WHAT'S THE BEST APPROACH TO NEATLY REMOVING THE EXISTING UNIT?

THANKS, YOU ALL!

 

[rich pierce]

Hey, if you promise to not respond in all capital letters (which is considered shouting on forums), I'll give you advice.

Drill it to about 1/8" and use an easy-out which can be purchased at real hardware stores.

 

[Capt. Fred]

There are 2 ways that I know about.

One is to cut a slot in it with a dremel cutting wheel, and then turn it out with a screw driver. This takes a pretty steady hand (and a dremel) so you don't ding up the barrel. I have done it this way and it worked fine.

Another way is to use an easy out. I have never done this but I understand that you drill out the touch hole to a fairly big (3/16 ?) dia hole and then use the proper easy out to back it out.

Hopefully someone who has use the easy out method with chime in with tips.

ETA- Rich was typing as I was. I suspect the easy out would be the safest way to go.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Just go easy with the easy out. You don't want to bust that off in the hole. Before you apply any force to it, you might want to soak it in a 50:50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone for a day to loosen it up. If you bust it in the hole, (usually with just a nub protruding) then you'll have a real mess, because that tool steel is a lot harder than the liner, or barrel steel. You won't be able to drill through it, and it will have to be milled.

If that doesn't work, (and the old one is too stubborn to come out) then just install a new one right on top of the old one. Drill it out with the # 4 bit, chamfer the hole with the 82 degree chamfering bit, the re-thread with the 1/4" x 32 tap.

 

[Vaino]

What's the reason for replacing the existing liner? Might learn something on installing a WL......Fred

 

[alex efremenko]

A WL touchhole liner has no screw slot to start out with. A touchhole should only be removed when worn out. If it does need to be removed, use an easy out.

 

[Lock Nut]

:hmm: I was thinking the same thing. If the hole isn't burnt out or some how ruined. Why would one want to remove it. They are supposed to be filed flush. They are installed, cut off and filed flush. Not like a typical screw in. I've never herd of any one wearing one out.
Assuming there is nothing wrong with it, removing it to put a slot in it for latter removal wont work as you'll have to install the new one in the same manner. On the other hand, if it is damaged, then go about it as previously suggested. :2

 

[Billnpatti]

Use as large of a drill bit as possible and then use an easy out to remove it. The reason for using as large of a bit as possible is so you reduce your chance of breaking the easy out. Be sure to soak the WL liner with penetrating oil for a while prior to attempting to remove it.

 

[Rokon]

Sorry about those capitalized letters--they're just easier on my eyes.

To answer the question of why I'm replacing it--someone over-drilled the existing unit. I like 1/16" flash holes. This ole boy looks like a well burnt out musket hole.

Anyway, many thanks for your recommendations.

 

[MJMarkey]

Use as large of a drill bit as possible and then use an easy out to remove it. The reason for using as large of a bit as possible is so you reduce your chance of breaking the easy out. Be sure to soak the WL liner with penetrating oil for a while prior to attempting to remove it.

Be careful of going too large. Those tools are tapered and a too large drill hole may require the easy-out to go deeper than the width of the bore.

 

[Billnpatti]

Be careful of going too large. Those tools are tapered and a too large drill hole may require the easy-out to go deeper than the width of the bore.

You are right. It is a delicate dance to get everything just right. I am just leery of using a too small easy out for the job. If the liner is corroded into the hole, you may well break off a small easy out. I prefer to use as big of an easy out as a job will allow to minimize the likelyhood of breaking off the easy out in the hole and then having a real problem on your hands.

I've never removed a Chambers touch hole liner but I have removed a few other liners that were flush with the surface with no slots or other ways of removing them except with an easy out. I use plenty of penetrating oil first and then take out the liner. I've never had a problem so I really don't expect blackelm will have any problems removing his Chambers liner.

 

[bpd303]

I'm thinking if the touch hole has been drilled out that large an easy out will fit without drilling further.

I know this is the cave man approach, but I once broke an easy out in a liner. I made a cape chisel that was wide enough to fit between the easy out & the edge of the liner. I was able to turn the liner out by tapping it counter clock wise using the chisel.

 

[running horse]

Has any one ever tried a left hand drill bit to remove one? Just a thought should back it out if not should drill the hole before it breaks off.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Follow previous advice. Ezee out. Make sure barrle is secured. It will come out easy.

 

[nhmoose]

Easy out if instructions needed ???? You need a gunsmith.

 

[M. De Land]

I'm always amazed that no one ever seems to mention a bit of heat after a penetrate fluid is used.
Especially if a thread locker is used. Barrel steel is usually normalized at 1000 to 1200 degrees F and one cannot get it hot enough with a propane torch do come any where near that temperature or hot enough to ruin the finish.
An easyout can be shortened on a grinder to fit the hole if drilled to wide.
If broken off they can usually be backed out with a small chisel or punch or drilled with carbide as they are made of HSS.