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White Lightning in 1/4 x 28?

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Read that the reason for the 32 tpi is that the parabolic cone can be larger when finer threads are used because the root dia is larger w/ the 32tpi. I've used 1/4-32 White Lightnings" on all my later builds and they've proven to yield fast and reliable ignition.

My first LR has a home made TH liner that's made from a SS 1/4-28 Allen set screw and the Allen Head hex is towards the bbl thereby becoming the "cone". Eliminated the screw driver slot and filed in 2 angled slots, 180 degrees apart on the outside dia for removing the liner...this way the screw driver slot doesn't come across the TH. A modified screw driver tip acts like a spanner wrench. This TH liner has proven to be as fast and reliable as any.

Stel was removed from the end opposite the hex in order to reduce the land of the TH......Fred
 
flehto said:
Read that the reason for the 32 tpi is that the parabolic cone can be larger when finer threads are used because the root dia is larger w/ the 32tpi.

That seems like a very probable explanation. Thanks
 
FYI - Fine vs coarse thread debate - per my Machinist Bible:

”Size for size, a fine thread is stronger than a coarse thread.

(1) This is both in tension (due to the larger stress area) and shear (due of the larger minor diameter)
[as someone already mentioned]

(2.) Fine threads have also less of a tendency to loosen since the thread incline is smaller and hence so is the off (break away) torque.”
 
My first LR has a home made TH liner that's made from a SS 1/4-28 Allen set screw and the Allen Head hex is towards the bbl thereby becoming the "cone". Eliminated the screw driver slot and filed in 2 angled slots, 180 degrees apart on the outside dia for removing the liner...this way the screw driver slot doesn't come across the TH. A modified screw driver tip acts like a spanner wrench. This TH liner has proven to be as fast and reliable as any.

That is one of the best suggestions ever posted on this forum. Simple but excellent. In fact, it is so simple and good that others should be embarrassed for not thinking it up themselves. :redface: :wink: :thumbsup:
 
How do you keep the threaded TH liner from screwing in or out during use? There is no shoulder of a countersink to crank down against the barrel in tightening it down.
 
There is really not much that would cause a vent liner to unscrew.
The gun is rarely subjected to vibration and with the lock covering some of the lower part of the liner it isn't accessible to busy fingers.

If it is a real concern, a small drop of the blue Lock-Tite thread locking compound on the threads before the liner is installed will keep it in place.
Of course, if the liner is held in place by the Lock-Tite it will be very difficult to remove.
 
Liners only need to be snug .
People get the idea that they have to be cranked down and thats why they have a hard time trying to remove the removable ones.
 
The tapped hole in the bbl for the 1/4-28 set screw isn't tapped all the way through. The taper of the tap left some interference and the liner lightly tightens on this. I've removed the liner for every cleaning and the liner is still in the same place.....the liner doesn't need to be tightened very much.....Fred
 
I beg to differ about locktite making a liner hard to remove. Use blue lock tight, it’s more of a thread sealer than a adhesive. It will prevent thread rusting. BJH
 
B.Habermehl said:
I beg to differ about locktite making a liner hard to remove. Use blue lock tight, it’s more of a thread sealer than a adhesive. It will prevent thread rusting. BJH

I keep a small tube of Loctite red in both of my range boxes (modern and ml). I have used for many years and have always been able to remove the screws or whatever sealed with it.
 
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