whitneyville cylinder face wear

[45D]

I’ve never seen a 1860 with five chambers before! Maybe a “cartridge cylinder”?

Shhhhhhhhhhhh !!! ( I didn't say anything )

Bob

 

[45D]

I decided the Walker would be heavily loaded and would probably " need" the modification with the factory wedge it came with. Same reason I put the action shield on it after dropping a spent cap down the hammer mortise. Never had a cap drop into the action of any of my other revolvers hence not needed.
Like I said, end fitting is a good mod and easy enough to do should I feel the need ! It's just not always a necessity in every model for accuracy or longevity in my opinion.

I "get" what you're saying but honestly, just because light loads won't necessarily wreck an OT doesn't mean it's built correctly . . . the fact is, it isn't. I'd figure someone as "persnickity" as you are would want all your OT's to be "correct" . . . like the Colts they're supposed to be copies of. The Italian "taper fix" will eventually wear and definitely won't last in the horse pistols.
Personally, I can't stand the idea of a revolver that has been purposely made a "lesser" version of the original design capability for what apparently is for ease of manufacturing. It's a slap in the face to Colt's engineers.

Mike

 

[lone pine]

this is the barrel face the marred cylinder face of the whtyvl rotates against. is this even safe to shoot you think?

 

[lone pine]

sorry if I'm wearing this topic out but this raised some serious concerns for me.
lp

 

[M. De Land]

Most likely a short arbor. I have several Uberti revolvers and all of them I had to correct this. You can do search for " short arbor " for more information on this.\\

this is the barrel face the marred cylinder face of the whtyvl rotates against. is this even safe to shoot you think?View attachment 344250View attachment 344249

What kind of barrel cylinder gap is present to begin with ? I wonder if the hand spring is to strong or the hand to long. Can you show a picture of the bolt notches,hand nose and ratchet teeth ?

 

[45D]

The forcing cone end on an OT is a bearing surface as is the cylinder face. Polish both and they'll be fine.

A large barrel/cylinder clearance will allow battering between the two surfaces. "Large" ( for me) is anything more than .003" for cap guns, .0025" for unmentionables.
Maintaining this number is the main reason for correcting the arbor length.

Mike

 

[lone pine]

here are pics of cylinder.
and thx.
lp

 

[lone pine]

the wear on these bolt stops is on all stops.

 

[Flint1]

If one were to just **** the revolver and practice holding and aiming with the revolver unloaded, gently let the hammer down on the nipple, and then repeat the process with the next chamber, if something were not correct would those drag marks along the cylinder stops still appear? Or does it only happen when firing? The reason I ask is I have yet to fire my Whitneyville and 1st Model Dragoons but occasionally work the actions like I described, especially when watching a good western. Neither has any drag marks.

 

[45D]

The marks on lone pines cylinder are normal. The mark on the cylinder shows the bolt ON the cylinder before entering the notch as it should be ( it should be fully on the cyl before the notch). The mark IN the notch shows full engagement which is a good thing.

Just polish the surfaces mentioned already and correct the arbor sooner rather than later and enjoy.

Mike

 

[lone pine]

good stuff.
ty!

lp

 

[M. De Land]

the wear on these bolt stops is on all stops.

View attachment 344280View attachment 344281View attachment 344282

The bolt lifts late and is not clearing the the back of the notch before the cylinder is advanced.

 

[45D]

The bolt lifts late and is not clearing the the back of the notch before the cylinder is advanced.

I don't think so. There's no mark to indicate that. One of the notches may have some "upset material" but that's from locking up and it doesn't appear to be hindering carry up ( no mark).
The only marks I see are bolt drop and full engagement (bottom of the notch).

Mike

 

[lone pine]

M. deLand "......bolt notches, hand nose and ratchet teeth."

what does "hand nose" mean?
thx
lp

 

[M. De Land]

M. deLand "......bolt notches, hand nose and ratchet teeth."

what does "hand nose" mean?
thx
lp

The front of the hand/pawl that engages the ratchet teeth.
See where the back of the notch has a bright rub mark from the bolt dome contact ? The cylinder is advancing a bit before the bolt is lifted clear of the notch and the dome is rubbing over the back edge. It doesn't really hurt anything as the bolt dome will slide/cam over . I have fixed this by simply removing a bit of bolt dome height. The bolt dome should/needs to still reach the bottom of the notch after this adjustment. It only needs a few thousands and is more of a cosmetic mod than mechanical need.
Also the bolt drop is just a tad late as well barely impacting before the front of the notch edge. My new :Uberti Walker is timed the same but should wear in and drop sooner as parts mate from use. The danger is peening in the front notch edge if the bolt drops to late and can inhibit full bolt engagement into the notch.

 

[Smokerr]

Here's an Uberti Whitneville after the Goon fixes it!
View attachment 344084

Dang he goes all out. The Sundial is a nice touch!

 

[45D]

Well I don't see any marks other than the bolt drop (bolt dropping onto the cylinder) and the mark on the bottom of the locking notch.

But, I could be wrong . . . so Mr. lone pine could check it for himself. lone pine, these are the timing marks for checking an open-top platform ( since the viewing of the bolt and where it hits is blocked by the curvature of the frame).
The first pic shows the notch position ( just left of a sight line on the left side of the hammer slot) at bolt drop (onto the cylinder). The second one is the notch position at lockup ( to the right of the sight line). That's how you check timing on an open-top 6-shot revolver.

The technique is to drag a finger on the cylinder as you slowly **** the hammer , listen for the clicks. The clicks are, 1-half ****, 2- bolt drop, 3- cylinder lockup (bolt snapping into the notch) and the trigger sear reaching full **** simultaneously (sounds like a single click).
If there's more than 3 clicks, you're out of time.

Mike

 

[lone pine]

thank you m.deland and 45d!
this clears up a lot of questions for me.