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Why Kibler

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Kibler locks are probably the best available today. As I recall the price of a Kibler lock alone is $300, quite a bit more than the most common locks. Higher prices don't necessarily mean higher quality, however high quality definitely justifies a higher price. I belive nearly all Kibler lock parts are machined, not cast.

Same price as a premium, factory-tuned Chambers lock and only
$80 more than brands that require $50-150 in labor to even be functional. Kibler is bringing superior design, quality, materials, value, and true parts interchangeability to the muzzloading kit and parts consumer.
 
Geez, Bob. You've been here since 2012. I was hoping you could tell me :)

When I saw all the Kibler recommendations I azzumed it was like knife forums and knives... there was a flavor of the day and a changing of the guard every few years. Usually due to higher prices and long wait times. Which I suppose can't be avoided if you are doing everything yourself and suddenly find yourself swamped with orders. But I see no one else in even the wings challenging. And that's saying something.

They appear to have set... no pun intended on SET knives ;) ... the gold standard as @TDM put so well.

It remains to be seen if the prices climb and the wait time lengthens. Actually, maybe the wait time already has. I saw someone in the past few days saying they had to wait six months after ordering a kit. Or maybe his was being assembled??? Either way, at my age and for other reasons long wait times mean everything to me. I've been looking at buying one already built, just because they scream quality parts.

But right now Kibler is King from what I've seen being turned out.
Actually the wait time seems to have shortened. At least my kit arrived some 4-6 weeks sooner than they predicted. As for quality, parts fit couldn't be better. Anyone screw one of these up, it won't be Jim's fault.
 
I’m finishing my fourth Kibler. I’ve done a Lyman kit also. There is no comparison. People have reasons for loving the kits. They are extremely helpful. When you get the Woods Runner together you think you must have forgotten something. I spent more time fitting the patchbox than assembling the rifle.

the canonization should not take that long. Many got it for less!
 
I looked at the Kibler order page yesterday, they now have buy today and ship tomorrow deals with 10% off, hard to beat.

I already have all the flintlock rifles I could possibly need and don't need a Kibler although I do go over to Jims's site and lust after his products every now and then. I did put together a SMR but sold it because the rear sight was too far back for my 75-year-old eyes to see, I have since had cataract surgery and can see normal sights but my SMR is long gone.

I already have 2 squirrel rifles, one percussion Bogle rifle and a flint TN rifle I made so I don't need another.

I have a Kibler lock and a nice piece of wood to make a TN bear pistol, I have been waiting on the barrel from FCI for a long time, a very long time. The Kibler lock is right up there in quality with a Roller lock that I have on another rifle.
 
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Hey, I'm assuming I need some chisels?
I see a lot of guys talking about fitting the patchbox or butt plate...
Just got an email from Kibler and among their new products are quality chisels, first I’d heard of it. They only had a couple of sizes but I’m sure they’ll be adding more, they have some nice turn screws now too.
 
Tough website to understand for someone like me that doesn't know the difference between models. There isn't a description saying what the difference is between say a Colonial and a Mtn Rifle.
The Woodsrunner shows a picture with a full stock, but the other models do not. Are they a full stock or half stock?
And what are the various letters after the lock? Lock P, lock M, lock Y ???

Maybe the kits are easy, but I have no idea what I'd be buying, lol.
 
Kibler I guess is now the AR 15 of long rifles, as in ease of assembly. However, are you building a gun, or as is the case with an AR, simple putting parts together. There is a difference, and for some, the challenge of getting everything to fit and work properly, is as much a part of the fun as it is to simply plug and play.

I for one appreciate that I must do a decent amount of work before I can take that gun to the range. It makes me proud knowing how much I had to put of myself into a project, even though nobody else will ever begin to comprehend or know how much work was involved. To me a Kibler is simply too easy a project. I would do it, say for my sons, should they ever decide they want a flintlock quick and should they decide to buy a Kibler kit. They know I can build a rifle. My one son has watched me working on guns and said he doesn't have the patience. So in that case, I could see myself putting one together, but for my own needs, no.

Surely, Im not building the entire gun, even when I do put a rifle together, but as far as Kibler kits are concerned, there's simply not enough of a challenge for my liking.
 
Tough website to understand for someone like me that doesn't know the difference between models. There isn't a description saying what the difference is between say a Colonial and a Mtn Rifle.
The Woodsrunner shows a picture with a full stock, but the other models do not. Are they a full stock or half stock?
And what are the various letters after the lock? Lock P, lock M, lock Y ???

Maybe the kits are easy, but I have no idea what I'd be buying, lol.
The quick ship rifle’s usually have some minor cosmetic defect in the stock, a knot, heartwood, discoloration etc. They are each a separate item so they get their own description so they know which kit you are ordering, for example lock A, lock B etc.
I bough an SMR in cherry for $100 off due to a knot half the size of a penny. As far as the difference in models you have to go to that model and read the description, it will tell you all the specs and what time period the rifle is. You can also look at pictures of finished rifles there and on here to see the differences.
 
The quick ship rifle’s usually have some minor cosmetic defect in the stock, a knot, heartwood, discoloration etc. They are each a separate item so they get their own description so they know which kit you are ordering, for example lock A, lock B etc.
I bough an SMR in cherry for $100 off due to a knot half the size of a penny. As far as the difference in models you have to go to that model and read the description, it will tell you all the specs and what time period the rifle is. You can also look at pictures of finished rifles there and on here to see the differences.


Hey thanks.
I'll look again for the description. I could not find it.
 
I've assembled (NOTE: not built), and shot an SMR, a Woodsrunner and have several other of all three models started. In my opinion there, is no way you can achieve a greater quality to cost value in a flintlock rifle than to buy a Kibler. You would have to have no mechanical ability at all to fail in building a beautiful rifle from a Kibler kit if you are patient, and watch the videos. The Woodsrunner kit is stupid simple to assemble. Both the rifles I've shot will put most shots overlapping at 50 yds. The locks are very fast. The Ketland lock on the SMR is so fast that ignition seems almost instantaneous.

I agree that if the challenge of "building" a high quality rifle yourself is what you are looking for, a Kibler kit might not be the way to go. But most of us that would like a truly fine long rifle either lack the skills to build one, or if we do have them, don't have the time to invest.
 
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