Wobbeling Hammer

[PathfinderNC]

On my flintlock pistol, the small Siler lock has a “loose” hammer (****). It can wobble slightly side to side and forward and back. Nothing major but I would prefer it not do that. (It’s the second small Siler lock that I have had this issue with).
It was suggested to me to slightly pean the square hole that the tumbler shaft slips in to tighten it up. I may try that, but am a bit nervous I won’t get it right and mess it up more.
I was wondering if a bit of JB Weld to the shaft and **** might resolve the wobble? (Not sure if it could withstand the shock of the hammer fall). It could be unattached if need be with heat.
Third option would be to ship it out for the work but don’t know who to contact. I don’t have Brad Ewing’s (?)contact info but was wondering if he would interested.
I would appreciate recommendations from people who have actually done this repair.
Thanks.

 

[TDM]

Maybe try a wrap or corner wrap of .005” copper or brass on the tumbler shaft.

 

[TDM]

And I would avoid using JB Weld.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

A common way of tightening up something like a hammer or a loose forend on a shotgun is to move some metal by peening. Using a flat punch you can peen the square hole in the hammer enough to tighten it up. This video is about shotguns but the method is the same and I have done it myself.

 

[SDSmlf]

If you have a small ball-peen hammer, place the **** on a solid surface, put the rounded end of the hammer in the square hole for the tumbler, and give the face of the hammer a firm rap with a non-steel (brass, leather, lead, etc). Repeat on both sides of the ****. It should tighten the fit up.

I keep a small ball-peen hammerhead around just in case such an adjustment is needed.

 

[Togo]

My buddy bought a small siler from Chambers, he also paid extra for the massage treatment. His lock also had a wobbly ****. I'll find out how he fixed his.

 

[EC121]

It is easy to move a little metal to snug up the fit. If you manage screw it up, Chambers sells the hammers. A thin shim will also work.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

I have peened the edges of the hole.

I have used shim material.

I have used a few drops of strategically placed red loctite.

JB would definitely hold, too.

You can fix this much cheaper and quicker than sending it to someone.

Pick yer pison.

 

[Dave Marsh]

Why don't you talk to Jim Chambers?

 

[Freedom]

I tried all the fixes mentioned here and only one works.

Use a steel feeler gauge, and with scissors cut some shims that are long enough so that you can push the **** down over them, then trim them off flush. Making them long will give a shoe-horn effect to the shims.

If you try to peen the metal, it will simply loosen back up in a short time.

JB Weld does not handle the shock.

I think a TIG welder and a file could be used with success on the tumbler... if you possess the skill and the TIG welder.

 

[Uncle Miltie]

Take the lock out and check the tightness of the bridle screws before peening and JB welding.

 

[Ranger 1755]

Get a ball bearing larger than the square hole. Clamp the hammer with the ball bearing against the square hole in a vise and tighten. Repeat for the other side. The ball will equally bulge all four sides in on the hole and this will fix the problem.

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

Mine was loose and wobbling around I tightened the screw no more issues.

 

[Togo]

On my flintlock pistol, the small Siler lock has a “loose” hammer (****). It can wobble slightly side to side and forward and back. Nothing major but I would prefer it not do that. (It’s the second small Siler lock that I have had this issue with).
It was suggested to me to slightly pean the square hole that the tumbler shaft slips in to tighten it up. I may try that, but am a bit nervous I won’t get it right and mess it up more.
I was wondering if a bit of JB Weld to the shaft and **** might resolve the wobble? (Not sure if it could withstand the shock of the hammer fall). It could be unattached if need be with heat.
Third option would be to ship it out for the work but don’t know who to contact. I don’t have Brad Ewing’s (?)contact info but was wondering if he would interested.
I would appreciate recommendations from people who have actually done this repair.
Thanks.

After talking to my buddy I found out he still has the wobble, he still hasn't addressed it.

 

[James Kibler]

I think the real culprit with these issues is that the **** / tumbler fit isn't proper to begin with. We use a slightly tapered square on our tumbler shafts and a matching square in the ****. Once pressed in place there is a very secure fit.

 

[deerstalkert]

I think the real culprit with these issues is that the **** / tumbler fit isn't proper to begin with. We use a slightly tapered square on our tumbler shafts and a matching square in the ****. Once pressed in place there is a very secure fit.

in other words Jim, you do it in a proper mechanical way. tapered fits have been the right way for centuries.
anyone ever try to separate a dynamo from the engine shaft of a generator? certainly no wobble tolerated there.

 

[oldramrod]

I have had good results with brass shim stock. /Remember to use two pieces , one for each adjacent side of the tumbler.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I think the real culprit with these issues is that the **** / tumbler fit isn't proper to begin with. We use a slightly tapered square on our tumbler shafts and a matching square in the ****. Once pressed in place there is a very secure fit.

I wonder why other makers aren’t doing it that way? It’s not a trade secret or anything. After receiving two small Silers with this issue I doubt I would want to work with another one.