Do most of you buy your Patchbox Release ...does this one from TOW work fairly good?
Thanks for any info..
Thanks for any info..
Wood patchbox release
- Thread starter Hoyt
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Brasilikilt
45 Cal.
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I've always liked those spring loaded patch boxes and often thought about doing that with my own rifle using leaf rake tines as springs and making up my own kind of spring loaded button to release it
Does anyone have pics of original examples of the mechanics behind the spring loaded patchbox?
Does anyone have pics of original examples of the mechanics behind the spring loaded patchbox?
Mike,you're needed!
I have one early York County .40cal with a sliding wooden patch box,and I don't much care for it....but it's period correct :winking:. I worry about loosing the darn lid in the woods,though it fits and works perfectly thanks to an excellent builder.
I have one early York County .40cal with a sliding wooden patch box,and I don't much care for it....but it's period correct :winking:. I worry about loosing the darn lid in the woods,though it fits and works perfectly thanks to an excellent builder.
Erzulis boat
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I am implementing the TOTW release (as it stands), and during mock-up, have found the spring a tad too stiff.
Granted, if the anchor is very near the tip, the effects are lessened to a degree, but it is quite stiff.
As I am using a brass buttplate, I do not want the spring to take it's toll (accelerated wear) on the latch surface. I considered silver soldering a thin plate of hard steel to the inside of the buttplate as a bearing surface for the latch to make it "bulletproof", but I am sure this is not PC, so I probably will not do this.
I thinned the spring by a tiny bit to "lighten it up", and it should work just fine.
There will be the argument that it can be as stiff as you want, you just merely lift it on insertion and extraction, but the next owner years from now might not do this, and wear the locking interface out.
I figure the more "foolproof" the design (actually impossible to accomplish, but you can lessen the chances!) the better.
After all that yap......I will probably end up making my own, as I want a fancy finial at the end inside the lid surrounding the attatchment screw. :hmm:
Granted, if the anchor is very near the tip, the effects are lessened to a degree, but it is quite stiff.
As I am using a brass buttplate, I do not want the spring to take it's toll (accelerated wear) on the latch surface. I considered silver soldering a thin plate of hard steel to the inside of the buttplate as a bearing surface for the latch to make it "bulletproof", but I am sure this is not PC, so I probably will not do this.
I thinned the spring by a tiny bit to "lighten it up", and it should work just fine.
There will be the argument that it can be as stiff as you want, you just merely lift it on insertion and extraction, but the next owner years from now might not do this, and wear the locking interface out.
I figure the more "foolproof" the design (actually impossible to accomplish, but you can lessen the chances!) the better.
After all that yap......I will probably end up making my own, as I want a fancy finial at the end inside the lid surrounding the attatchment screw. :hmm:
I agree Tracks are too stiff, I had 2 from muzzleloaders Builders Supply and they were great.
The ones from track I ended up takeing material off the thickness to nelp make them weaker, also as mentioned above moving the screw out as fad as possible helps.
Craig
The ones from track I ended up takeing material off the thickness to nelp make them weaker, also as mentioned above moving the screw out as fad as possible helps.
Craig
Did you know that there is actually less wear when steel meets brass, rather than steel on steel or brass on brass? Anyway its always easier to remove a bit of material but a pain to add it back on when dealing with springs. :thumbsup:
Erzulis boat
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Actually, that is only applicable when shock or compression is involved, as in gearing and bushings. Surface to surface engagement, and shear stresses engineering, hard steel to hard steel for example (sear/tumbler) beats steel to brass.
Brass alloys have an inherent slickness (self contained lubricity) and this under light applications inhibit wear.
But you may be correct in that the nominal pressures involved with a patchbox spring, that the steel spring might be better served in contact with the brass of the plate. It would depend on the pressures involved. :hmm:
Brass alloys have an inherent slickness (self contained lubricity) and this under light applications inhibit wear.
But you may be correct in that the nominal pressures involved with a patchbox spring, that the steel spring might be better served in contact with the brass of the plate. It would depend on the pressures involved. :hmm:
Erzulis boat
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You have undoubtedly built more patchboxes than I, so I will not worry about a wear plate.
When it comes to galling, if the pressure is light, then the brass will stay slick without lubrication.
On my mock-up, the locking angle was 7 degrees or so, and pretty tight. I will take some more pressure off of the interface.
The TOTW spring feels like a Chambers mainspring (almost!) :haha:
When it comes to galling, if the pressure is light, then the brass will stay slick without lubrication.
On my mock-up, the locking angle was 7 degrees or so, and pretty tight. I will take some more pressure off of the interface.
The TOTW spring feels like a Chambers mainspring (almost!) :haha:
Erzulis boat
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There is a plus to purchasing one- it should be in the ballpark of the correct size!
I have some TOTW blueprints, but it is kind of hard to get the full scope of dimensions. Since I have never handled one, the purchased spring says it all.
The TOTW spring is of excellent quality, and the "button" on the end is very smooth and appears to be of a great shape to be snag free.
Even if I make my own, the money was well spent in my opinion.
I have some TOTW blueprints, but it is kind of hard to get the full scope of dimensions. Since I have never handled one, the purchased spring says it all.
The TOTW spring is of excellent quality, and the "button" on the end is very smooth and appears to be of a great shape to be snag free.
Even if I make my own, the money was well spent in my opinion.
Mike Brooks
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I used to make them out of a 16 penny nail. With my outrageous labor costs these days it's cheaper for me to buy one from chambers.Hoyt said:
