wood removal tools?

[Jon in MI]

I'm to the point with my Tulle kit that I need to do the final stock shaping. I need to remove a fair amount of wood and would like to know what hand tools you use. The stock is maple and getting wood off has been hard. I'm willing to buy a good file but don't want to waste money on something that won't do the job. I have a cabinetmakers rasp but not a good one. While fitting the butt plate it didn't work very well. I ended up having to use a dremel sanding drum to remove enough wood.

Jon

 

[tnlonghunter]

Check out Mike Brooks' threads on Building a Longrifle 101 (or something like that). It's here in the Builder's Bench Forum and he goes through all the steps from big block of wood to final finishing. It looks like he uses an assortment of rasps and files to do most of the wood removal. That's what most people I've seen do. I got a set of files and rasps from Home Depot that had 6-7 different types of files for like $10. I know they're not the greatest quality ones, but I figure for $10, if the process works like it's supposed to, then I can upgrade one at a time later.

 

[TN.Frank]

There's something called a "surform" tool, IIRC that's like a rasp but is a flat metal sheet so the cutting parts are open. They won't clog up like a rasp and will cut much better. You can replace the blades in the tool handle when they become dull. Let me do a google and I'll edit and post a link.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/products/Surform-Tools-207039.html

 

[Black Hand]

Another tool that I use frequently is a small Stanley finish plane (~$8-10). Works very well on both maple and walnut, and avoids much of the mess and annaoyance of a rasp. In fact, I rarely use a rasp anymore, just a few small files, the plane and some sandpaper.

 

[TN.Frank]

There's something called a "surform" tool, IIRC that's like a rasp but is a flat metal sheet so the cutting parts are open. They won't clog up like a rasp and will cut much better. You can replace the blades in the tool handle when they become dull. Let me do a google and I'll edit and post a link.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/products/Surform-Tools-207039.html

Fixed the link for ya'.

 

[tat]

A spokeshave is great for this type of work also. :thumbsup:

 

[David/toledo]

# 49 and 48 pattern maker files. I love my half round Vixion file Use it for everything wood metal Yhey are made for car body work. Big files 1/2 die round file, even a horse hoof file I just quess you can,t have to many files After they ware out there become a knife scraper. Needless to say I keep my eyes open at sale for file. Remember the Idea is to remove wood BUT TO REMEMBER when to SLOW up.
David

 

[rich pierce]

A spokeshave is great for this type of work also. :thumbsup:

I'm with tat. I always use a spokeshave to take the stock down to very close. On the recent project I was even able to use it on the buttplate inlet. It was cutting crossgrain so nice I had to try it and it worked.

 

[reddogge]

The surform in flat and curved versions is great for hogging off lots of wood in a hurry but watch out you don't go wild with it. I'll stop and use spokeshaves, rasps and files next.

 

[loophole]

I'm with David. The Nicholson patternmakers files are the best things going for shaping gunstocks. There are other useful tools, but these files make the final shaping pleasant work.

 

[sdakotadoug]

A tool, new to me at least, is the Microplane. Its like a Surform but made of stainless and stays sharp. The fine is a lot more controlable than the regular. You can remove a lot of wood in a hurry so caution. Doug

 

[poloman]

A cabinet scraper can remove wood quickly but still in a controlled fashion. They are made of silver steel. To sharpen, the edge is carefully filed to 90 degrees with a dull file. The edge can then be dressed with a stone. You need a nice sharp 90 degree edge. Then apply pressure to the edge with a hardened steel burnishing tool. The side of a good screwdriver will do. You are trying to form a hook in the edge. When you get this right you can remove a nice curly shaving with every stroke and the scraper will get quite hot. Hope this helps.

 

[Jon in MI]

Thanks guys. I just have one more question. What is a spokeshave?

Jon

 

[BLAHMAN]

A draw knife, I believe. To take of large amounts of wood, I will use a draw knife, hand plane, horseshoe rasp, mallet and chissels, then I smooth things up with files and scrapers.

 

[Black Hand]

It looks like a cross between a plane and a drawknife. Two handles and a narrow blade in the center.

 

[tat]

a spokeshave has a guard so you cant dig in too deep.

Dont use a drawknife it WILL take a chunk out before you know it. Dont ask how I know this :grin: :grin:

 

[Mr. Chester]

These links should show you the diff.

http://www.gp.lib.mi.us/information/about/t_spokeshaver.htm

http://www.gp.lib.mi.us/information/about/t_drawknife.htm

For the non-experienced a spoke shaver would be better. In either case they should be sharp and practice is needed. More so with the draw knife as gouging is possible :cursing: - the direction of the grain of wood must be noted.

 

[Jon in MI]

thanks again, i understand now. I'm just picked up 2 micro planes and a sureform file. That should get me started.

Jon

 

[Lord Calvin]

If you go to the contemporary muzzleloading gun
show in Lapeer this Sunday. You find some of the tools you may need. And get to see alot of new and original guns to boot.

 

[Jon in MI]

I'll be there for sure. And K-zoo as well.

Jon :thumbsup: