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Wormy Wood: York Kit

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Slowpoke

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A couple months ago I decided to build a Chambers kit. I got a beautiful maple blank from a friend for $50 but the only problem was that it had a lot of worm holes. So I sent the stock off to Bob Lepley (the guy that does Chamber's stocks)for carving. Well I got it back and it looks like I shot it with my smoothbore and smeared ink on it. :) I can get the stains out with Chronic Acid so I'm not worried about them, the holes I'll fill with little dowels of maple. This should make a interesting rifle when finished

Chuck

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if the dark grain stays it sure will look good....please follow with some more pics.......................bob
 
I'm really debating whether to stain it normally and have the stain really show through... or cover it with cromic acid and then stain it dark so the stains don't show through.

This a a picture of what it looked like before the stock was shaped
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It's a shame the worms got to it, it's a $200 piece of wood without the stains and holes.

Chuck
 
It's a shame those worms didn't make the holes where the barrel pins are supposed to be, bio-drills... :haha:

The maple dowels should do fine, a patch box should take out the holes in the butt area, unless they go all the way through...

I like nonstandard things, so the dark blotches are appealing to my eyes, sets it apart from the rest of the maple stocks...
 
Perfect !!! That's what I'll do... plus inlet a .495 RB in the cheek piece and say that one didn't make it through.

Chuck
 
Musketman, Stumpkiller, Slowpoke:

Good stuff, guys. Love how the Forum can inform and amuse in the same thread.
 
I'm not sure if Chromic acid will take out those mineral stains or not , but you need not worry since you barely notice them after staining and finishing. I plugged the holes in mine with round toothpicks. I tried making little maple plugs to glue in but they ended up more noticeable than the ones I just pushed in a toothpick with Elmer's glue on it. I little darker with the end grain but didn't look bad at all. I'm sure lots of antique guns had worse defects than that.
Will be interested in future pics as the work progresses.
 
I've used acid before and it takes all the colors out of the stains and turns them solid black. Then stain with a darker color stain and then blend in. I'll take some pictures of rifles done this way and post them.

I have the side, toe, lock, and butt plate all installed. I'll have the nose cap trigger guard and timbles in this week.

I should have it finished shortly thereafter. Pictures of course will follow.

Chuck
 
I'd plug the holes but leave the stains and finish it light enough they they are still visible. It'll look good.
 
My brother in law, a furniture refinisher once worked on a brand new top of the line Baldwin Grand Piano. The owner wanted it antiqued, and paid dearly to have, among other things wormholes in the legs.
These were put in with a cylinder bore shotgun fired from about 40 yards away. (They shielded the main body from stray shot.)
 
slowpoke: I made a full length stock for my TC Renegade out of Misquite wood It had several holes and stain marks,left it light so all the defects (chacter marks) stand out.Will send a photo after August as thats when I have to go back to Texas for a short time, and thats where the gun is at this time.Your project should come out Great! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
The stains are not really stains. They are called spalding, or spalded maple. The marks will appear in maple right above the loction of the tree from being tapped for maple water which is boiled into maple syrup. I would leave them but I like to see wood for its natural colors and marks. I would like to thank you, now I have to go inlet a .495 R.B. into my stock for a story bout injuns also. Wait till the wife hears this one.
 

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