Y'all be ready for a whole lot of stupid questions!

[GAHUNTER60]

The Kibler rifle I ordered will my very first experience with a flinter. As I've said in other posts, I've been shooting cap locks for nigh over 50 years (53, to be exact), but other than watching folks at the range shoot, and sometimes struggle, with their flinters, I have zero experience. And since I found out that my Kibler will be here -- assembled in the white, but otherwise ready to shoot -- before Christmas, It has just dawned on me that I'll be shooting in a matter of weeks! (With the TVM, it was going to be seven months before I'd have a rifle in hand). So I've started putting together things I need:

So far, I've ordered .530 balls; a "field tool" set (flash hole pick, pan brush, mini screwdriver); a pan primer flask; caliber specific ball starter; .018, pre cut pillow ticking patches; a tin of mink oil patch lube; .54 caliber cleaning jag; a dozen flints (from Kibler); a bench rod (again, from Kibler). I know I'll need some kind of flint knapping tool, but I'm still researching what I want to use (not fond of the hammer option; kind of like the nail with grooves cut in it idea)

The above goes with the stuff I already have on hand: Both 3f, and 2f Goex powder (local gun shop has 4f in stock); several powder measures; patch puller; ball puller; tons of cleaning patches; Ballistol; leather possibles bag; powder horn (one of the cheap ones, but it'll have to do for now); and several brands of powder solvent.

So what have I not mentioned that I need to shoot a flintlock? Think hard, 'cause, after all, it's y'all's fault that I'm in this situation.(I was perfectly happy putting little brass caps on a nipple until l found this website. Now look at what I've gone and done!)

 

[Art Caputo]

Welcome to the club! Looks like you have most all the bases covered. I’d add some .015” patches. My Kibler barrels in 50 cal amd 58cal both shoot exceptionally with this size patch, and load easily with LRB’s that are .010” under the bore size. Worth some experimenting. I use TOTW Mink Oil fo the line. Both my barrels have the square cut rifling/GM barrels. I’m also a great fan of notched copper nails for knapping flints.

 

[Rifleman1776]

What you "need" now is to get out and shoot it. You look prepared. However, the ball/patch combo might not be the best for that barrel. I suggest you get some .015" pure cotton ticking and try that also for break in and accuracy. Congrats on the rifle and good luck.

 

[Phil Coffins]

You’ll find lots of folks to take credit if you’re happy. On the other hand no one will take the fault! You came here of your own free will so man up and stop this whining. This group is here to lead you astray and I’ll pitch in. Do you have a proper hat?

 

[GAHUNTER60]

You’ll find lots of folks to take credit if you’re happy. On the other hand no one will take the fault! You came here of your own free will so man up and stop this whining. This group is here to lead you astray and I’ll pitch in. Do you have a proper hat?

You tell me!

 

[D.Summers]

Excellent! Looks great!

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Sounds like you have pretty much everything figured out as far as shooting supplies/gear. I use the notched nails to sharpen a flint it works for me but I plan to master the "tap" micro chips method with a hard object. The notched nail does tend to take off a lot of material. Do you have a Range Box to put all of you stuff in to take to the range? Staple Gun, targets, cardboard? A target scope can be really nice if you're eyes are as bad as mine. You might want to try some different patch thicknesses and lubes when working up your load. Go to a fabric store and get some 100% cotton pillow ticking in various thickness (.010 - .018). Try some lubes like Murphy's and Water, Moose Milk, TOTW mink oil etc.

Good luck with your new Kibler!

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

flint knapping tool, but I'm still researching what I want to use (not fond of the hammer option;

Until you decide on a knapping tool, you can use a medium size slotted screwdriver. Not one that uses multiple tips, but a standard screwdriver. Use the screwdriver blade edge. Just make sure the hammer is not cocked or the gun loaded.
You will also need some leather to keep the flint positioned in the hammer jaws. ( I like about 3/32" thick)
Flintlocklar

 

[Phil Coffins]

That will do.

 

[Sidney Smith]

You dont need a flint knapping tool.

Ive been shooting flintlocks for over 25 years, and Ive never owned a knapping tool or attempted to knap a flint. Flint gets dull, it gets tossed, and a new flint installed, simple as that. Flints are cheap, not worth it IMO to reknap. Its like trying to reuse dirty patches, why?

 

[Yewbender]

Welcome to the Flint side!!! Now after you find pure enjoyment shooting a flinter your next one should be a smoothbore flinter and have lots of fun!

 

[Spikebuck]

Looks like you're stocking up well for the arrival of your new rifle! A couple of comments, if I may:

Hopefully the vent pick you got is a thin wire version...your flintlock is only going to require perhaps a 1/16" flash hole or maybe #50 drill size at the largest. I have found the wrought iron ones that look so neat are WAY too big to fit in a normally sized flash hole on a vent liner. If you did order one of the wrought iron ones, get out the files and take her down to a diameter that works, once you have the rifle in hand.

Do you have an old piece of antler tine laying around? If you want a flint knapper, there you go...sharpen a tip and viola!

Patch thickness. Not sure what barrel you're getting. I don't know what Jim's doing on his own barrel make now. If deep round-bottom rifling, I've had to bump the patch thickness past .020 crushed! Had a .62 Rice that took .025 crushed with a .610 ball and my Rice .54 is looking like a .530 with .022 crushed (I use denim and the ladies at Wally World look at me funny when I'm in there with a calipers getting crush thickness measurement of their material!!!) .015 to .018 is good with the "shallower" square bottom rifling, in my experience...those crush down to around 0.12 and .016 by my method.

I have found that caliber specific ball starters sometimes "hang up" in the patch a bit when you want to remove them. I've since gone with a small diameter short starter that is threaded on the end. One short starter for all and I can change out a jag that is "large enough" to push evenly on the ball face but not so large as the barrel diameter to hang up in the patch. But, this would be no different whether capper or flint, so you know what you need there for sure.

Lastly...if a guy has a dog picture on the wall behind him in his living room, the hat has to be OK!

 

[hanshi]

There's nothing like a "walk on the wild side". That's where muzzleloading starts and ends. And it gets worse and becomes an addiction, a delightful misery.

 

[GAHUNTER60]

In response to Spikebuck (without making everyone re-read your post). My field tools, including pick, are the TC flintlock field tool set on a key ring. My Great, Great, Great, Great, Great Grandfather on my Mother's side, who was killed at the same moment as Major Patrick Ferguson at The Battle of Kings Mountain carried the same TC set on his car keys.! (Okay, maybe the part about the TC tools is a lie, but the rest is true! His name was Col James Henderson Williams. My mother was Sara Williams.

The Barrel on the Kibler is a 1-66" square cut, Rice barrel. I've been told the .530 ball, and .018 patch is a good starting (hopefully ending) point for this rifle.

As far as antlers, I've got a pile four feet across and three feet high. I've killed around 100 deer in my life (90 percent bucks), and I have never thrown an antler away, though I've lost a few to thieves. I should be able to come up with a suitable knapping tool from one of those in the pile.

And as far the dog watercolors, my Grandmother painted those, as well as the waterfall you can see in the oil painting over the couch. We are as family of sportsmen going way back, and she loved to paint hunting scenes. My mother had eight brothers and sisters, and between them, there are about 60 or 70 of her outdoor paintings in our houses.

 

[Nameless Hunter]

Just an FYI, I have been informed that all new orders will use a Green Mountain barrel.
Kibler will do the swamp profile machining at their shop.

 

[Musketeer]

You dont need a flint knapping tool.

Ive been shooting flintlocks for over 25 years, and Ive never owned a knapping tool or attempted to knap a flint. Flint gets dull, it gets tossed, and a new flint installed, simple as that. Flints are cheap, not worth it IMO to reknap. Its like trying to reuse dirty patches, why?

That's fine if that's how you want to do it, but I have a different take: if you can spare a few moments and press or tap on the edge of your flint and get additional shots out of it, then why not? There's often a good bit of life left in a well made gun flint after it has dulled for the first time. Like Spikebuck mentioned, I keep a small deer antler tine in my shooting bag that serves well as a pressure flaker. Some prefer the percussion method, which also works, but I find pressure flaking gives me more control and better results.

 

[MSW]

if you want to juggle 3F and 4F powders, that's your business. I did the same and just out of curiosity, i tried priming from the main flask & it made on difference, so I'm using up the 4F and i just won't replace it when it's gone.

Good luck with your new rifle: we need a range report as soon as is practical.

Make Good Smoke!

 

[smo]

Congrats on the new rifle!
The back spine of your knife caulk work took nap a flint or a small brass rod.
I like the knife blade method, it’s quick and I think put less strain on the ****/tumbler .

 

[toot]

thanks for sharing.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

You dont need a flint knapping tool.

Ive been shooting flintlocks for over 25 years, and Ive never owned a knapping tool or attempted to knap a flint. Flint gets dull, it gets tossed, and a new flint installed, simple as that. Flints are cheap, not worth it IMO to reknap. Its like trying to reuse dirty patches, why?

For the purpose of discussion: I disagree, flints are not cheap! I will agree that most of the time it is better to toss and replace with new. A new sharp flint is good insurance for a bang after trigger squeeze. IMO a knapping tool is necessary for the needed quick flint sharpening. Shooting in competition or maybe you need a second shot hunting. I can touch a flint up a heck of lot quicker than replacing one. Just my two cents.
Flintlocklar