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yotie Joe's jug choking

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Greenmtnboy

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I just got back my TVM fouler from Coyote Joe who did a hell of a job jug chocking it.
He did a quick off hand pattern for me which was excellent. 82 percent at 40 yrds with ounce and a quarter # four in front of 80 grns of ffg.
I took it home and properly benched it at 40 yrds with the same load except with # six.( I forgot to buy a pound of # four)
here are the results.

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I asked Joe if he was going to jug choke for folks who wanted it and how much?
He said yes and 50 bones( way cheep)
Maby he came to his senses and decided his time was worth more. But if any body is interested in turning their smoothie in to a long range turkey killin rig I would seriously give him a jingle.
:bow: :bow:
 
Looks like there's going to be lots of Turkey on your table with that gun.
Fox :thumbsup:
 
silverfox said:
Looks like there's going to be lots of Turkey on your table with that gun.
Fox :thumbsup:

I hope so, if not it will be nobodies fault but mine.
I am not sure about SxS but I imagine.

I would also like to add that before Joe polished my barrel it leaded somthing horrible.
now I can shoot it without cleaning between shots.
I just talked to Joe and he said bring on the orders.
 
Well this isn't the proper forum for such but yes, since I work with hand tools doubles are no problem. I got into this just to choke my own Pedersoli double from Cylinder bore to modified and full for trap shooting and confirmed the choke by shooting patterns and counting all those little bitty holes. :grin: I took it out last week and shot some clays with Greenmtnboy and Rio and whumped them good. But they don't much practice shooting moving targets where as I've gotten so shaky in my old age that every target is a moving target to me! :haha:
 
How does Jug choking effect the accuracy of your smoothie with PRB?

I would not want to make the change if it effected my .060 PRB out to 50 or 60 yards.
 
CoyoteJoe said:
Well this isn't the proper forum for such but yes, since I work with hand tools doubles are no problem. I got into this just to choke my own Pedersoli double from Cylinder bore to modified and full for trap shooting and confirmed the choke by shooting patterns and counting all those little bitty holes. :grin: I took it out last week and shot some clays with Greenmtnboy and Rio and whumped them good. But they don't much practice shooting moving targets where as I've gotten so shaky in my old age that every target is a moving target to me! :haha:

Joe..do you require the lugs and sights to be removed to jug choke a barrel?
 
THAT'S GOT MY ATTENTION! MIGHT HAVE TO GIVE THIS FOWLER THING A TRY IF I COULD GET ONE TO SHOOT LIKE THAT! :thumbsup:
 
bart said:
How does Jug choking effect the accuracy of your smoothie with PRB?

I would not want to make the change if it effected my .060 PRB out to 50 or 60 yards.

If round ball shooting is your primary use of a smoothy, I would forgo jug choking. I believe Roundball ran some tests that showed a loss of accuracy in a jug choked barrel.
 
*hawkeye If round ball shooting is your primary use of a smoothy said:
I'm inclined to agree, I did a brief before and after test of my own 28 ga. with a Jack Gardner half-round 30" barrel on a T/C Penn Hunter. I only went to improved cylinder on that one because I viewed it as primarily a bird & bunny type of gun. My test was far from thourough but my subjective impression was that it was less accurate after jugging. I still haven't tried a lot of loads, it may be that another load would do better but the load I tried went from 4" groups to 6" groups at 50 yards after choking to improved cylinder. That didn't depress me at all since I use rifles for ball shooting and the pattern with 6s was just what I wanted.
Doubles are no problem and there is no need to remove ribs or hardware. I work from the muzzle end with a tool I built in what is called "spill boring", a wood backed single point reamer, turned by hand, with shims to adjust the cutting depth. The shape of the recess is determined by the shape of the reamer and, of course, a deeper recess will also be longer.
My thinking on chokes in general is that the cylinder bore is just fine for most upland game hunting where shots are within 25 yards. Improved cylinder is my favorite all around choke, giving a pattern nearly as large as the cylinder bore but more uniform and with a slightly more dense center which will give another 5 yards of effective range. Tighter chokes reach longer range by thickening up the center of the pattern, in effect you get two patterns, the dense center and the outer fringe which is much less dense. For this reason I consider full choke to be a specialized choke, effective past 50 yards with the right load, but only if one shoots well enough to put that dense center on target.
To maybe explain what I mean, when I check patterns I draw two concentric circles. I use the standard 30" diameter circle to get an overall percentage but I then draw a 21" center circle which has half the area of the 30". So if the pattern were uniform overall, there would be the same number of pellets in the center as in the outer ring. That happens with chokes no tighter than improved cylinder. If the overall percentage runs no more than 50%, you may find 25% in the center and 25% in the ring. But with tighter chokes, pellets are pulled from the ring into the center so that a 70% full choke will run more like 50% in the center and 20% in the ring, big difference there, the center having 2 1/2 times as many pellets as the outer ring. Thus, for shots past 30 yards, you really have to center the target with the full choke. That's no problem for aimed shots at stationary or slow moving targets but puts a real premium on just the right lead for flying birds or bouncing bunnies. On the other hand, if you center a bird at 20 yards with a full choke it will be mangled.
Full choke makes a fine turkey and trap gun but is just a bit too specialized for most flying game. That is why modern shotguns use interchangeable choke tubes, because no one choke does it all. :grin:
 
If you are going to hunt with a full choke gun, learn( Using clay targets) to " shoot around the clock". That is, you purposely aim slightly off the target so that you are raking the target with the side of your pattern. Where you point to " just miss " with the center of the pattern, when hunting live birds, depends on the flight characteristics of the species, and what the particular bird does when it flushes. I killed a cock pheasant at no more than 4 yards that came up flying towards me, one morning, with my full choke barrel, by aiming to the side of his head, instead of right at it. I think one pellet hit the bird right in the head, as we found no other shot anywhere on the carcass after I cleaned and removed the feathers from it. I tried the same point on a bird flushing away from me, but at short yardage. My two hunting companions were out of position, and I had the only clear shot, but on ly if I didn't dally. The bird veered over into my shot Just as I slapped the trigger, and I took out one half of the breast with that shot. Distance was only about 10 yards, if that. I also broke the right wing in a couple of places. The rest of the bird ate just fine. :surrender: :thumbsup:
 
Get back to us when you can do it 10 times in a row and then still be able to center punch on command. That's a wonderful way to screw up consistency.
 
The main reason I like double barrels is the option to instantly select from two different chokes and even two different loads if you like.
All double gun makers fail to provide the difference I prefer in the two barrels. The usual choke combinations offered are imp cyl right and modified left or modified and full. There really isn't much practical difference between two adjacent degrees of choke, imp cyl and modified overlap in usefulness as do modified and full. I prefer two distinctly different degrees of choke, such as improved cylinder right and full in the left or even straight cylinder and full. In that way I have one barrel suitable for close flushing game in tight cover and one barrel set up for maximum range or for turkey heads at any range. Choosing the right choke for a single fowler requires a bit of soul searching. :haha:
 
bart said:
How does Jug choking effect the accuracy of your smoothie with PRB?

I would not want to make the change if it effected my .060 PRB out to 50 or 60 yards.


DSCF2128-1.jpg


When I first choked my smoothbore to modifed I got excelant 25 yrs accuracy with RB but it opened up to six inches at 50 yrds no matter what patch, ball, lube combo I tried, which is not! IMO good enough for min of deer accuracy.
So I turned my smooth bore in to a turkey gun.
And am very happy with it.
Hats off to Joe

:bow:
 
CoyoteJoe said:
Well this isn't the proper forum for such but yes, since I work with hand tools doubles are no problem. I got into this just to choke my own Pedersoli double from Cylinder bore to modified and full for trap shooting and confirmed the choke by shooting patterns and counting all those little bitty holes. :grin: I took it out last week and shot some clays with Greenmtnboy and Rio and whumped them good. But they don't much practice shooting moving targets where as I've gotten so shaky in my old age that every target is a moving target to me! :haha:
CoyoteJoe I have 2 guns I'd like to have jug choked if your up to it. I have a 20 gage I'm working on right now and a Dixie 10 gage double barrel. The 10 has chrome lined barrels, will that be a problem? I'm not concerned about chrome lining being removed in the process at the jug. Probally looking at having it done after Spring if possible. I like to turkey hunt with the 20 gage in the fall. My 10 gage has an open and improved cylinder bore. It's also Pedersoli made with Dixie Gun works stamped on the barrels.. Steve S.
 
Hey guys, lets not abuse the forum, we have the private topic option for personal discussions. :wink:
 
u said you did your double pedersoli? Is yours chrome lined? If so are you cutting throught he chrome liner?

I'm not into fowl hunting at this point so really the need for nontoxic shot isnt there.....though that is likely going to change. I'd like this gun to shoot better groups and plan on trying some paper cups and a few other doodads I've seen on here when I get back to MN this spring as that is where I left it this past year for ease of traveling (IE I bought to dang much manure LOL). She shoots ok but would consider it....... Dont need a 50 yarder, but would be nice to tighten up the cyl barrel to the improved side and take the improved up a notch give me an honest 30 yard gun for longbeards that way and still not be to tight for roosters when I get the chance in the fall to fly south.
 
Actually I don't believe my double was chrome lined, the reamer cut clean and easy from the start and the shavings looked like plain steel. This is an oddball gun I got off Gunbroker for $325 and it appeared unfired. It is obviously Pedersoli, engraving and all just like any pedersoli but it is not marked with any name. The only marks visible on top are a five digit serial number on the side of the left barrel. Under the barrels it has the usual Italian proof marks and two lines stamped "Black Powder Only" and on the second line "1 1/4 Oz shot Made in Italy 12 Ga."
I am glad it is not covered with a bunch of superfluous information but I've never before seen a Pedersoli that wasn't so marked.
 

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