Do you have a link to those? I’ve just used a mandrel and a planishing hammer.Purpose built dent expanders are made as well.
Do you have a link to those? I’ve just used a mandrel and a planishing hammer.Purpose built dent expanders are made as well.
https://4drentals.com/product/12-ga-dent-raiser/Do you have a link to those? I’ve just used a mandrel and a planishing hammer.
What shotgun gunsmith would use.Do you have a link to those? I’ve just used a mandrel and a planishing hammer.
Dropped her at the skeet rangeView attachment 313206View attachment 313207....
No, don't get the torch out and don't use a dowel.What if he used a dowel rod bigger in diameter than the barrel, and reduced the diameter of the rod to where it was "pointed" on one end so that when inserted into the barrel it would fit, then heat the muzzle area with a propane torch to where the metal was malleable, then tap the rod in to bend the damaged area back to how it was? Maybe not a dowel but some kind of tapered steel rod. Or, the barrels have no choke. Saw both barrels off to get rid of the damaged in. He'd have a little bit shorter gun though, and have to reinstall a front bead. I'm just thinking about home remedies.
If one were to use a Morse tapered tool tapped into the bore, I would suggest putting a stout piece brass or copper rod in the barrel first. It will knock the tapered tool out when you are done with whatever you are trying to accomplish.OOOOPS!
I use a morse taper tool that fits. Tap it in then tap gently around the muzzle. Quick and easy!
No, no and no…. ‘heat the muzzle area with a propane torch to where the metal was malleable’ and you will up with two individual barrels when the solder melts.What if he used a dowel rod bigger in diameter than the barrel, and reduced the diameter of the rod to where it was "pointed" on one end so that when inserted into the barrel it would fit, then heat the muzzle area with a propane torch to where the metal was malleable, then tap the rod in to bend the damaged area back to how it was? Maybe not a dowel but some kind of tapered steel rod. Or, the barrels have no choke. Saw both barrels off to get rid of the damaged in. He'd have a little bit shorter gun though, and have to reinstall a front bead. I'm just thinking about home remedies.
I have a guy I'm taking it to. Matt mcgraw. He makes custom made flint and percussion trap guns out here in the hoosier state.No, don't get the torch out and don't use a dowel.
That sucks big-time. I thought I was having a bad day when I sliced my palm open while trying to attach a handle to a knife.
Any ideas on how to repair it
Should be easy to tap out with the right size mandrel. Can be brass, bronze, steel or even hardwood. The barrels are quite soft, use a small dead blow hammer and work from outer edge of ding, light taps. Make sure the barrel you’re not working on is on a proper support, bag of shot maybe, unless you want to fix that one too. Good luck, it’s not that hard, just go slow.Dropped her at the skeet rangeView attachment 313206View attachment 313207....
yeeshThis won't work in a ML'er but will in a modern shotgun. I had same issue with a double 12 ga (modern) I got that belonged to my grandfather. The right muzzle was smashed in similar to the original posters. I took it to my gun smith buddy and he literally handed me a 12 ga slug (standard non-sabot style) said go out back to the range and fire this off through the barrel. I did and walla it straightened it right out. He said now I could of charged ya $50 to do the same thing but I like ya.
Now I am guessing he knew it wasn't that bad and would not end up rupturing the barrel like in the cartoon with the finger in the barrel, banana peeling it back.
Had it fixed by a gunsmith cant rven tell it was dropped. Had it at the trap yesterday and shot better than i ever had. Even had a mid bead installed.Dropped her at the skeet rangeView attachment 313206View attachment 313207....
Enter your email address to join: