Guest
Having just completed and spent the first night on a Rev War folding cot, I have a few tips for anyone contemplating making one for themselves.
For the most part, I followed the directions in the Book of Buckskining III. One thing I changed was cross-section dimensions of the framework. The cot in BoB III was probably close to the original, (the author states that he had to guess at the dimensions on his) but I’m a tad heavier than the average 18th century soldier. The rails and legs in the book were 2 X 1 ½. Mine are 3 X 1 ½. Not only does the change in dimensions make everything a little stiffer, it allows more “meat” to remain in the rails when the mortise for the legs is made. It also allows for a bigger mortise, and, a correspondingly larger - and stronger - tenon on the end of the legs.
I substituted carriage bolts for the dowels that pin the legs together and the dowels that the headboard and footboard pins pivot on. I did try wood dowels in the headboard and footboard but one broke so easily during construction that I opted for something that couldn’t break. I’m sure the HC/PC police are screaming “foul” at this point. Let’ em. I know for a fact the Red Greens of the 20th and 21st do things a little differently from time to time. I doubt that our forefathers were any different. The basic design IS period.
When assembled in the open position, the edge of the side rail will be topmost. Regardless of the type of bit you use to make the hole for the headboard pins, the center of the bit will be on the edge of the rail when you start drilling. Drill the holes. If you are going to paint the cot, do it at this point. After the paint has dried you are ready for the last step, fastening the canvas.
The final tip involves the biggest “I wish I had”.
Decide how wide you want the cot to be. Keep in mind that it should not be any wider than ½ the width of the canvas because it is best to install it folded. Install the pins on the headboard and footboard that will hold the frame together, centering the pins on the desired width.
At this point, the headboard and footboard should be ready to install. Forget ”˜em for the moment. Make a jig from some scrap 2X4s that has dowels placed at least one inch closer together than the ones on the headboard and footboard. Put these in place and install the canvas, stretching it as tight as you can as you drive the tacks. This way, when the actual headboard and footboard are in place the canvas will be a LOT tighter than it would be if - like I did - you install the canvas when the bed is at the actual width it will be in use.
I figure that I have around $25 invested in this project. If last night’s sleep is any indication, it was worth every penny.
For the most part, I followed the directions in the Book of Buckskining III. One thing I changed was cross-section dimensions of the framework. The cot in BoB III was probably close to the original, (the author states that he had to guess at the dimensions on his) but I’m a tad heavier than the average 18th century soldier. The rails and legs in the book were 2 X 1 ½. Mine are 3 X 1 ½. Not only does the change in dimensions make everything a little stiffer, it allows more “meat” to remain in the rails when the mortise for the legs is made. It also allows for a bigger mortise, and, a correspondingly larger - and stronger - tenon on the end of the legs.
I substituted carriage bolts for the dowels that pin the legs together and the dowels that the headboard and footboard pins pivot on. I did try wood dowels in the headboard and footboard but one broke so easily during construction that I opted for something that couldn’t break. I’m sure the HC/PC police are screaming “foul” at this point. Let’ em. I know for a fact the Red Greens of the 20th and 21st do things a little differently from time to time. I doubt that our forefathers were any different. The basic design IS period.
When assembled in the open position, the edge of the side rail will be topmost. Regardless of the type of bit you use to make the hole for the headboard pins, the center of the bit will be on the edge of the rail when you start drilling. Drill the holes. If you are going to paint the cot, do it at this point. After the paint has dried you are ready for the last step, fastening the canvas.
The final tip involves the biggest “I wish I had”.
Decide how wide you want the cot to be. Keep in mind that it should not be any wider than ½ the width of the canvas because it is best to install it folded. Install the pins on the headboard and footboard that will hold the frame together, centering the pins on the desired width.
At this point, the headboard and footboard should be ready to install. Forget ”˜em for the moment. Make a jig from some scrap 2X4s that has dowels placed at least one inch closer together than the ones on the headboard and footboard. Put these in place and install the canvas, stretching it as tight as you can as you drive the tacks. This way, when the actual headboard and footboard are in place the canvas will be a LOT tighter than it would be if - like I did - you install the canvas when the bed is at the actual width it will be in use.
I figure that I have around $25 invested in this project. If last night’s sleep is any indication, it was worth every penny.
