Southern California Flintlock Gunsmiths

[Numlok]

So I’m pretty new to the world of muzzleloaders in general having just got my first percussion rifle a month or two ago, but I also just picked up my first flintlock, a T/C Hawken. Took it to the range Sunday and had a great time, but it seems a little rough in flints. Used the black English flints from TotW and it just beat the heck out of them. Every shot would just take chunks out of them. On the plus side, it seemed like the frozen was knapping the flints and keeping them sparking most of the time. On the downside, the flints were getting too short to use after 10-15 shots or so.

I know every lock is different, and every flint is different. Maybe this is normal, and I know some people exaggerate the number of shots they average on a flint. But I’m hoping with some tuning, I can get this running a little more gently.

So, does anyone know any gunsmiths that are good with a Flintlock in the Southern California area? I’d really prefer to be able to take it to someone face to face if possible. Failing that, I’m open to suggestions for sending it out. If nothing else, I’d like to get it into experienced hands to see if there’s even anything I should worry about.

 

[Numlok]

So an extra bit of information; My dad got a video of me shooting the rifle, and I slowed it down frame by frame. Looks like the frizzen isn't snapping open. The flint hits it and it sparks just fine, but the flint sticks on the frizzen and hangs at the bottom. I wasn't catching this because the flash coming out of the breech hole seems to blow the frizzen out, so it's fully open after I fire. Could this be indicative of an issue causing my flints to get chewed up?

Also, after some digging, it seems that the quality of the black english flints from TotW has been a little hit or miss as of late. Some people still swear by them, other have been reporting problems. I've ordered some black French flints from Heritage Products (They were sold out of Amber, but I'll order some of those to try out when they restock), I'll see if I have the same issue with those.

 

[waarp8nt]

Post the video if you can, it could be something so simple as the angle the flint is hitting the frizzen. Many folks consider the Lyman feizzen an upgrade to the T/C lock, it only requires minor fitting. Also, early T/C flintlocks had a poor hammer angle, newer ones were better. Both parts can be had at thegunworks.com and both can be easily installed by a person of average skill level.

 

[Numlok]

Post the video if you can, it could be something so simple as the angle the flint is hitting the frizzen. Many folks consider the Lyman feizzen an upgrade to the T/C lock, it only requires minor fitting. Also, early T/C flintlocks had a poor hammer angle, newer ones were better. Both parts can be had at thegunworks.com and both can be easily installed by a person of average skill level.

Video below. Also threw in a few stills. One before the cock drops, one with the charge in the pan just starting to go off (I counted 7 framed from the time the cock dropped until the powder started to go off), and one with the powder in the pan going into full ignition. You can see that the frizzen is still down while the charge is going off if you look closely.

And thanks for the suggestions! I'll look into those locks! Love this rifle so far, but if I can get it running better I'm sure I'll enjoy it even more.

 

[deerstalkert]

would be wonderful to have the video for a change. laptop gunsmithing can be tough, with as many opinions as there are readers.
my TC needed some tweaking to get the strike correct. involved heating and bending the cock. another fix could be lightening the Frizzen spring along with polishing the frizzen shoe that rides on the spring.
where is the flint first contacting the frizzen?
is there about an 1/8 or less inch between the flint and the frizzen at half cock?
would love to see the video, steal it and archive it in my fixit file.

 

[deerstalkert]

looks like you need a longer flint.

 

[Numlok]

looks like you need a longer flint.

Makes sense, that was one of the options I was thinking about. There's definitely more of a gap between the flint and frizzen than most folks seem to recommend (I usually see "A few sheets of paper thickness" to 1/16", but mine is probably over 1/8" at least, I could measure tomorrow.) Currently using 5/8" x 3/4", which is what I always see recommended for T/C locks. Think a 3/4" x 7/8" might be worth messing around with? That's the next common size up I'm seeing. The frizzen certainly seems wide enough to take advantage of the width without hitting the barrel or hanging over the side.

Might even just try shimming behind the flints I have this weekend to see if there's any change before I order anything.

 

[waarp8nt]

So I’m pretty new to the world of muzzleloaders. Used the black English flints from TotW and it just beat the heck out of them. Every shot would just take chunks out of them. On the plus side, it seemed like the frozen was knapping the flints and keeping them sparking most of the time.

I can get this running a little more gently.

So, does anyone know any gunsmiths that are good with a Flintlock in the Southern

Currently using 5/8" x 3/4", which is what I always see recommended for T/C locks. Think a 3/4" x 7/8" might be worth messing around with? That's the next common size up I'm seeing. The frizzen certainly seems wide enough to take advantage of the width without hitting the barrel or hanging over the side.

Might even just try shimming behind the flints I have this weekend to see if there's any change before I order anything.

I think deerstalkert has you on the right track. Try some different flints (longer) or positions before ordering parts. I went to the shop and looked through my English flints ordered from Track of the Wolf last fall and not really happy with what they sent, not the quality they were sending out a few years ago. I prefer flints I hand pick at a local show, but that isn't always an option.

I have one T/C flintlock that I lost count of shots at around 48 with a few more shots on the flint than that. It was a hand picked flint from the Sullivan, IL show. The last order from Track were thin at the edge with some high spots that will need cut down. Lots of grey spots too, certainly not the quality of a few years back.

 

[Zapadach]

So I’m pretty new to the world of muzzleloaders in general having just got my first percussion rifle a month or two ago, but I also just picked up my first flintlock, a T/C Hawken. Took it to the range Sunday and had a great time, but it seems a little rough in flints. Used the black English flints from TotW and it just beat the heck out of them. Every shot would just take chunks out of them. On the plus side, it seemed like the frozen was knapping the flints and keeping them sparking most of the time. On the downside, the flints were getting too short to use after 10-15 shots or so.

I know every lock is different, and every flint is different. Maybe this is normal, and I know some people exaggerate the number of shots they average on a flint. But I’m hoping with some tuning, I can get this running a little more gently.

So, does anyone know any gunsmiths that are good with a Flintlock in the Southern California area? I’d really prefer to be able to take it to someone face to face if possible. Failing that, I’m open to suggestions for sending it out. If nothing else, I’d like to get it into experienced hands to see if there’s even anything I should worry about.

As a fellow southern California inthuseist, I have come to learn to do everything I need done by myself. There is a bunch of information out there to equip one in doing his own gunsmithing. Even when California was a pro-gun state, I still had to do my own fixes on muzzleloaders. Muzzleloading has never seemed to be to high on the list of the shooting community here.

 

[ZUG]

Try contacting "The Log Cabin Shop" and ask them if they can help you. Tell them of your issues. You might need to send them the lock only. Good luck.

 

[EC121]

Get a longer flint. Then polish the frizzen spring and frizzen toe to a mirror finish and put some grease on the contact area. Oil the frizzen screw. The frizzen should snap open about when the flint gets to the bottom of its face. 30-45 deg. It may need timing.

 

[Wncman]

So an extra bit of information; My dad got a video of me shooting the rifle, and I slowed it down frame by frame. Looks like the frizzen isn't snapping open. The flint hits it and it sparks just fine, but the flint sticks on the frizzen and hangs at the bottom. I wasn't catching this because the flash coming out of the breech hole seems to blow the frizzen out, so it's fully open after I fire. Could this be indicative of an issue causing my flints to get chewed up?

Also, after some digging, it seems that the quality of the black english flints from TotW has been a little hit or miss as of late. Some people still swear by them, other have been reporting problems. I've ordered some black French flints from Heritage Products (They were sold out of Amber, but I'll order some of those to try out when they restock), I'll see if I have the same issue with those.

Perhaps some red grease or similar at the pivot point of the frizzen and frizzen spring would help. Or polish the two points so the present less drag . Or both.

 

[Cornbread]

This post reminds me of the good ole' days when there was a store called 'The Flintlock' at Hobby City in Anaheim (closer to Knotts Berry Farm than Disney's Land).

 

[French Colonial]

Try contacting "The Log Cabin Shop" and ask them if they can help you. Tell them of your issues. You might need to send them the lock only. Good luck.

ZUG has it right, if you do not know what your doing send to these people and it will get fixed.

Most likely the frizzen spring needs lightening up.

 

[Flintleather]

This post reminds me of the good ole' days when there was a store called 'The Flintlock' at Hobby City in Anaheim (closer to Knotts Berry Farm than Disney's Land).

How bout The Frontloader in Fontana Ca? I used to get powder from Dick the owner for $6 a pound.