Thoughts on Browning a Kibler SMR Lock?

I built a 36 Kibler SMR a couple years ago and browned all of the iron parts. The barrel came out a little splotchy and I've been thinking about finally getting around to fixing it soon. Anyways, when I built it I left the lock plain and decided to let it build a natural patina over time. Now I'm toying with the idea of browning the lock to have it match the rest of the hardware.

Does anyone have pictures of their SMR's with browned locks? Also does anyone have tips for browning a lock if I decide I want to do it? I used Track's cold brown solution for another build recently and it turned out fantastic so I'll probably use that for the Kibler now.

One I just finished

I asked a similar question wrt my Colonial lock plate, and was advised browning wasn't the proper historically correct method:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/lock-side-plate-metal-finish.181176/
I'm still deciding what to do.

I used Jax Black on my SMR, but the SMR is all iron-mounted and I just used the same on all the metal, including the barrel. And that came out fine.

Kibler lock, not a Kibler rifle. Mark Lee Express Brown per instructions and one soak in 140⁰F distilled water.

That is one heck of a finish! I’ve got to look into that brand.

No, I wouldn’t advise it. If you like it fine, it’s your gun.

Personally, find browning the locks on these rifles akin to the DuroCoat or Cerakote finish used by Pedersoli and other manufacturers to mimic a traditional rust brown. It just seems out of place. But if you like that modern look, go for it. Maybe look at some of the spray on epoxy finishes.

I browned mine and like it a lot

Only one you have to make happy is oneself. Have at it...

I use phosphoric acid. It gives a somewhat rust resistant finish and results in a nice antique grey.

Pete G said:

I use phosphoric acid. It gives a somewhat rust resistant finish and results in a nice antique grey.

Click to expand...

Can you post a pic?

Pete G said:

I use phosphoric acid. It gives a somewhat rust resistant finish and results in a nice antique grey.

Click to expand...

I like that look.

Is the process practical to do an entire barrel?

wiscoaster said:

I like that look.

Is the process practical to do an entire barrel?

Click to expand...

Try it and see. If you don’t like it, just sand off. I use rust remover from the marine hardware store.

I’ve used Kibler locks three times,
First one I just used LMF browning as directed,
Second one I used LMF again, a few coats allowed to rust, boiled, then scrubbed back with scotchbrite,
Third one I just polished,,

This is neither a Kibler rifle or lock but I used Track of the Wolf Browning solution and just lightly browned everything, lock buttplate, barrel. It has a worn look.

Here's an lock from a rifle my Dad built and I finished. This one I browned to death.

I threw rust and patina to the wind and went full bare metal polish for maximum bling:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...l-58-caliber-smoothbore-maximum-bling.181896/

I'm about to make my first Kibler. Personally, I like the browned a lot more than the rubbed back black or patina'd bare metal look, because that's how all my original Appalachian School rifles look in my collection. The argument that they wouldn't look like that when they were new in 1845 is true. But when I'm carrying one I like pretending IT is that old, an 200 year old antique, rather than pretending I live back in the day, 200 years ago. I actually had someone at the range, a very experienced old shooter who isn't much into blackpowder, think my contemporary was an original.
When I get my kit I'm going to seriously consider browning it to look generations old, like the ones I have look.

It is a personal choice;

Not a Kibler but late Ketland on my TN rifle;



I grayed the KIbler I put together, this is early kit with a Chambers Late Ketland lock.