bczrx
32 Cal
Hello,
I just received a Uberti 1858 [blued steel 8"] revolver and have run into an issue.
When cocking it the hammer/trigger doesn't engage smoothly on half of the chambers.
My first thought was to dress the tip of the hand/pawl a bit to reduce the length and allow the hammer to travel farther back to full lock.
As a result, my thought was to instead modify the three 'ratchet' areas of the cylinder that are problematic.
Does this seem like I am on the right track? Am I missing something?
I haven't worked on the action on these before, but have fit cylinders on other SA revolvers [Ruger] as well as fitting hands/pawls on DA revolvers [H&R, High Standard, S&W, Ruger].
IF I am right, I have a second question- about the engagement surface of these ratchet designs.
On the other revolvers it was readily apparent where the hand/pawl pushed up- but I am not quite as clear on the remington 1858 design.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thank you.
I just received a Uberti 1858 [blued steel 8"] revolver and have run into an issue.
When cocking it the hammer/trigger doesn't engage smoothly on half of the chambers.
- For 3 of the chambers I will cock the hammer and the trigger pops forward to catch the hammer easily- just like on my Uberti 1847 Walker or Pietta 1858. [or any other single-action revolver I own]
- For the next 3 chambers I will pull the hammer back and have to put about twice as much pressure on the hammer for the last 1/8" of travel before the trigger pops forward to catch the hammer.
- For all 6 chambers the bolt/stop has popped up and is locking the cylinder before I have to really press down for the 3 problematic ones.
My first thought was to dress the tip of the hand/pawl a bit to reduce the length and allow the hammer to travel farther back to full lock.
- However, there is no noticeable issue for 3 of the chambers.
- I worry that shortening the hand/pawl will result in the 3 bad chambers no longer causing problems but the 3 'good' chambers not moving up enough and becoming 'bad'.
As a result, my thought was to instead modify the three 'ratchet' areas of the cylinder that are problematic.
- My thought is that the cone-shaped ratchet design needs a smidge removed to allow the hand to go up that hair more for full cock position without an increase in pressure at the end of the cocking motion.
- This would fix the 3 'bad' ones and leave the 3 'good' ones alone, resulting in 6 chambers lining up properly and being locked by the bolt/stop.
- Of course, screwing this up ruins a much more expensive part than the hand/pawl/lifter, but it avoids a reduction of the pawl/hand that might just flip which 3 chambers are problems.
Does this seem like I am on the right track? Am I missing something?
I haven't worked on the action on these before, but have fit cylinders on other SA revolvers [Ruger] as well as fitting hands/pawls on DA revolvers [H&R, High Standard, S&W, Ruger].
IF I am right, I have a second question- about the engagement surface of these ratchet designs.
- The rear 'ratchet' area has 6 cone-shaped indentations that act as the ratchet/star on the cylinder.
- Would I only be touching the flat wide end of the cone?
- Or do I need to work on the outside edge of the cone as well?
On the other revolvers it was readily apparent where the hand/pawl pushed up- but I am not quite as clear on the remington 1858 design.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thank you.
