• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Thoughts on an original 1860 COLT Army

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
411
Reaction score
707
Location
S.E. Missouri
Well I've a little wood working hobby that makes a bit of pocket change in my retirement ...
I've always wanted an original1860 Colt Army ...Reasons...one to shoot it ..one to say I have one of my bucket firearms and hopefully a bit of an investment I could have fun with! ...
It is not IF I proceed but in what manner I proceed .. the 2 options are in my mind will both require a functional mechanically safe weapon ( yes light loads for sure)

Option 1. a non #'s matching ..likely little finish if any (not pitted), shootable bore, little if any cylinder scene but readable barrel address nomenclature with stocks reasonably intact

Option 2. some finish showing, matching #'s, fair bore, some cylinder scene showing, clear barrel address and stocks mostly clear

I would expect the difference between option 1 and 2 to be $500 to $1000 in acquisition cost ..I suspect option 2 has the better chance to be a better investment (I know either "grade" offers no guarantees of growth)

What say you fellow shooters?

Bear
 
Well I've a little wood working hobby that makes a bit of pocket change in my retirement ...
I've always wanted an original1860 Colt Army ...Reasons...one to shoot it ..one to say I have one of my bucket firearms and hopefully a bit of an investment I could have fun with! ...
It is not IF I proceed but in what manner I proceed .. the 2 options are in my mind will both require a functional mechanically safe weapon ( yes light loads for sure)

Option 1. a non #'s matching ..likely little finish if any (not pitted), shootable bore, little if any cylinder scene but readable barrel address nomenclature with stocks reasonably intact

Option 2. some finish showing, matching #'s, fair bore, some cylinder scene showing, clear barrel address and stocks mostly clear

I would expect the difference between option 1 and 2 to be $500 to $1000 in acquisition cost ..I suspect option 2 has the better chance to be a better investment (I know either "grade" offers no guarantees of growth)

What say you fellow shooters?

Bear
Your post reminded me of how little I know of original gun value as I have never been able to afford them. I've seen a few percussion guns at shows that looked in only fair condition and I think I remember them being near the 2K mark.
The percussion guns were always priced far below the model 73 Colts as I recall the few I've seen
 
I know enough to be dangerous, I’d like an original also. The problem for me is not being able to spot a forgery, there are a lot out there. So I tend to shy away.
 
Well I've a little wood working hobby that makes a bit of pocket change in my retirement ...
I've always wanted an original1860 Colt Army ...Reasons...one to shoot it ..one to say I have one of my bucket firearms and hopefully a bit of an investment I could have fun with! ...
It is not IF I proceed but in what manner I proceed .. the 2 options are in my mind will both require a functional mechanically safe weapon ( yes light loads for sure)

Option 1. a non #'s matching ..likely little finish if any (not pitted), shootable bore, little if any cylinder scene but readable barrel address nomenclature with stocks reasonably intact

Option 2. some finish showing, matching #'s, fair bore, some cylinder scene showing, clear barrel address and stocks mostly clear

I would expect the difference between option 1 and 2 to be $500 to $1000 in acquisition cost ..I suspect option 2 has the better chance to be a better investment (I know either "grade" offers no guarantees of growth)

What say you fellow shooters?

Bear

If you want a "bucket list" cap gun nobody should tell you NOT to get it!! I've collected other things, so I understand that animal, but revolvers weren't one of them.
I've worked on a few originals and even though it's "cool" ( and an honor to be entrusted with originals) I'd rather have 2 New Uberti's than an original . . . even though new Uberti revolvers need to be brought up to "design spec", they have : parts availability, better steel, better parts, better machining, and can handle my particular type of shooting. An original for me would just be a paper weight or take up room in a safe.

So I say go for it and good luck!!

Mike
 
I know enough to be dangerous, I’d like an original also. The problem for me is not being able to spot a forgery, there are a lot out there. So I tend to shy away.
The real deal would be wasted on me . Originals need to be preserved/conserved as made not modified to make better shooters.
The gunsmithing approach to preservation and restoration is entirely different than is modification for better performance.
Charcoal bluing, precise polishing, case coloriing and sometimes very good TIG welding is needed to bring some of these old warriors back to life.
 
You guys all have legit comments ..I admit to wavering back and fourth ..
I'm sure the one I am looking at now will price itself out of contention for my willing investment range ..

I do shoot tuned 1860 Colt Uberties so at least I can live with whatever Sam Colt could cobble together
150 years ago

Bear
 
You guys all have legit comments ..I admit to wavering back and fourth ..
I'm sure the one I am looking at now will price itself out of contention for my willing investment range ..

I do shoot tuned 1860 Colt Uberties so at least I can live with whatever Sam Colt could cobble together
150 years ago

Bear
Original Colts were quality guns: in my opinion better than most of the replicas made today, especilly the springs!
I purchased this one in 1986. I bought it to shoot, and had Ozzy at the Log Cabin do a trigger job on it.
Over the years I won a lot of matches with it.
Might wish to find a non-numbers matching gun with no finish and an acceptable bore for shooting. These days such a gun will be well over $1K but nicer ones with matching numbers and traces of finish will be 3 times that amount.
Some pitting in the bore is no big deal: it will still shoot well.
I wouldn't worry about harming the gun either as long as you use light target loads.
Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • 20221105_062759.jpg
    20221105_062759.jpg
    1.8 MB
I have an 1860 with two serial numbers, according to references both made in 1863, with traces of the inspector's stamp. I did get a good buy on it because of the mismatched SNs. It is shootable, but I rarely shoot my antique firearms. Damage done to an antique, even using it for it's intended purpose, is almost a crime, to my way of thinking. That said, I am aware that many European shooters do shoot original revolvers in their matches. I believe my 3rd Generation Colt 1860 shoots like the original, even has the gain twist rifling, and have managed to win a few matches. It was a lot less expensive, and if I modify or break it, no real harm. The decision is yours to make.
 
I get the idea...Dad had an original 1860 which I never had a chance to shoot, sold to get his first deer rifle. I would love an original 1860, but could never justify the money for an original. To shoot, I would certainly justify finding a 2nd generation. I already have a Pietta 1860, which I love to shoot. It looks great is well made and shoots better than me.
 
Back
Top