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Leak around vent liner

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Removing a liner for cleaning is not a good idea. I wondered about whether cleaning was necessary or not myself but after getting a Teslong bore scope I found that my white lightning liners were spotless on the inside after going through my normal gun cleaning procedure. I do use a pipe cleaner in the liner during the cleaning procedure and again after I store a gun with an oily barrel before I shoot it.
 
I've never installed a vent liner so I'm not qualified to comment. But, I'll be doing one soon and one thing I've wondered about is how does one create a tight seal on the threads. It was a revelation when I read Chambers instructions :rolleyes:

He says don't fully thread the hole. Leave the last few threads slightly undersized so that it seals and anchors the vent liner.
 
SDSmlf said:
There is a good chance that similar neglect is present in the bore. Have you looked at the bore with a borescope?
Click to expand...
Yeah the bore is bright and clean, and it shoots well. The only issue there is a nagging surface rust issue in the bore after cleaning. Nothing deep, no pits, just some light rust colored patches the day after I clean. Seems like it happens no matter how well I dry and oil it.

Thanks for the input, everyone. I'll take measurements a larger vent liner and go from there. I've been checking out instructional videos on YouTube. It doesn't look so bad.
 
Eric Krewson said:
Removing a liner for cleaning is not a good idea. I wondered about whether cleaning was necessary or not myself but after getting a Teslong bore scope I found that my white lightning liners were spotless on the inside after going through my normal gun cleaning procedure. I do use a pipe cleaner in the liner during the cleaning procedure and again after I store a gun with an oily barrel before I shoot it.
Click to expand...
The liners and nipples are not generally what is buggered or corroded but rather the barrel steel threads. WL liners look like a stainless alloy from their appearance which is highly resistant to corrosion.
I've not tested them for hardness but I wouldn't be surprised if their Rockwell is higher than barrel steel and yet still file-able.
 
longcruise said:
Are you cleaning with extremely hot water?
Click to expand...
Nope, room temp or slightly warmer. I've cleaned my muzzleloaders like that for years with no issue. I picked this one up about 10 years ago and I've probably only taken it out to shoot 10-15 times (kids are keeping me busy!) It's had the same rust light rust issue every time.

I polish it back with oiled 0000 steel wool before oiling for long term storage. That fixes it but the problem comes back after every cleaning.
 
I tap all the way through with a white lightning liner, I have put most of them in C weight barrels, one on a 13/16 .40 barrel, in both cases there was plenty of metal to tap. I pull the breech plug, screw the liner in, mark what protrudes into the barrel, remove the liner and grind and file the extra off. I used to grind the extra off inside the barrel with a diamond bit after I installed the liner but pulling the liner to remove the excess works much better. For the final installation I coat the threads with high temp anti seize compound to prevent corrosion, this stuff doesn't ever wash off.

It looks like you have to do some work on your breech plug, too much metal in the way.
 
Eric Krewson said:
I tap all the way through with a white lightning liner, I have put most of them in C weight barrels, one on a 13/16 .40 barrel, in both cases there was plenty of metal to tap.

It looks like you have to do some work on your breech plug, too much metal in the way.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure of the exact thickness here. It's a tapered A-weight.

As for the breech plug, that's one of the reasons I'm a little hesitant. It seems like the amount to be removed is a bit of a judgment call. I definitely don't have enough experience to trust my judgment! I suppose moderation is key, as with most things. Is there a rule of thumb for filing the breech down?
 
M. De Land said:
The liners and nipples are not generally what is buggered or corroded but rather the barrel steel threads. WL liners look like a stainless alloy from their appearance which is highly resistant to corrosion.
I've not tested them for hardness but I wouldn't be surprised if their Rockwell is higher than barrel steel and yet still file-able.
Click to expand...

W_TownMcKinley said:
I'm not sure of the exact thickness here. It's a tapered A-weight.

As for the breech plug, that's one of the reasons I'm a little hesitant. It seems like the amount to be removed is a bit of a judgment call. I definitely don't have enough experience to trust my judgment! I suppose moderation is key, as with most things. Is there a rule of thumb for filing the breech down?
Click to expand...

The trouble with breech plug alteration is cutting into the perimeter seal against the shoulder exposing the threads to fouling migration. I always prefer liner seating ahead of the breech plug shoulder, rifling removal (land removal) up past the liner face penetration. I also want the liner interior to flush out with smooth boring (land removal) of the barrel thus leaving no corners for fouling entrapment.
The anti- seize no doubt helps plug the threads from fouling migration when the breech plug shoulder seal is compromised .
Actually I think most guns would be better off without a liner until the need arises after the flash hole erodes.
My guess is a flash hole lined with a platinum rivet peened into it would be the best of all worlds. Threaded flash hole liners installed in new gun construction is a modern idea from what I can see.
 
I remove the vent liner on all my flintlock rifles as part of its cleaning after every shoot. I've done this for decades. I can't see how\where it would cause any issues. I do this to prevent any fired BP creeping in part of the threads and causing corrosion.
 
In addition to my previous comment when I install a White Lighting vent liner I drill\tap and check the seating of the liner. Then when I'm happy that it's seated well (and not protruding into the chamber) I back it out, cut off the install nub, cut a single slot for a screwdriver, and install it.

This is a pic of my last install. This pic was not the final product as I had to file a bit more of the liner to become flush with the barrel flat.

Maybe this is considered wrong to do, but it's worked out for me all these years.

bzEbMHvl.jpg
 

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