I cast thousands upon thousands of projectiles every year, from 32 caliber pistol, to 525gr 45 rifle bullets. Fired up the pot today to put my 6 cavity Lee .490 round ball mould to use. Didn't take long to remember that you still have to pay attention to what you're doing. About 20 out of 80 cast had slight defects that sent them back into the melt. Casting with almost pure lead can be more difficult than casting with the normal 20:1 alloy I use. Want to do a test between the Lee .490, the Green Mountain .495, and T/C .490 at 50 yards. The Lee mould leaves almost no sprue, and casts a consistent ball.
Casting
- Thread starter NMHawken
- Start date
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I’ve found with the 6 hole it takes 5-6 fills before the mold is heated evenly. I pour with a ladle rather than bottom pour. But yes, the balls, once the mold is heated are darn near perfect.
Lee moulds take a little more care, but they generally cast really well.
Back to the drawing board! Swaged Hornady .490 balls, 70gr FFFg Goex, .018 patch and an RWS cap, 1.5" at 50 yards off my shooting sticks, my .490 from the Lee mould was easily twice that with the same combo, powder charge up or down netted the same result. The .495 ball from the Green Mountain was even worse. Burned a lot of powder, and came away knowing the T/C Hawken with a Green Mountain barrel is capable. Came home, broke out the caliper and a micrometer. Going to have to add a little tin, as I have determined that they vary by .002" from the Lee mould, and .003" from the Green Mountain mould, weight is consistent, but disappointed that the Green Mountain mould drops a .492" ball, basically the same as the Lee. I have work to do.
Dave
Dave
