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Wads Vs Lube Vs Paper Cartridges
- Thread starter Walkabout
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Erwan
45 Cal.
For pistol?
It's as you like/feel, but no difference at the accuracy level...
For me, the simplest way is the best: powder, filler (cornmeal), ball, and grease.
Concerning the paper cartridges, I use them only with my Sharps .54 cal., the cigarette paper is for cigarettes...
If you want to stay in the tradition, you can try the skin cartridges, this is not better than paper but more historical than cigarette paper...
It's as you like/feel, but no difference at the accuracy level...
For me, the simplest way is the best: powder, filler (cornmeal), ball, and grease.
Concerning the paper cartridges, I use them only with my Sharps .54 cal., the cigarette paper is for cigarettes...
If you want to stay in the tradition, you can try the skin cartridges, this is not better than paper but more historical than cigarette paper...
I have yet to see anything definitive or general agreement on the various loading practices.
Wads and lube over ball are a bore cleaning aspect. Getting the ball further forward may help accuracy so its possible a wads assists that.
Wads and lube over ball are a bore cleaning aspect. Getting the ball further forward may help accuracy so its possible a wads assists that.
Based on my own experience, and having tried them all at least once, no.
I suppose some logical reasoning could be put forward for one method over another, but when you get out in the field to shoot there are so many other variables that have more significant effect on accuracy, so I think the advice put forward about "keep it simple" is probably your best advice wrt loading method.
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Good morning Walkabout.
We're at the mercy of each and every revolver (percussion or otherwise) 'cause they just likes whatever they likes. I have a lot of fun with trying to trick them into doing things my way but in my heart I know who's boss.
We're at the mercy of each and every revolver (percussion or otherwise) 'cause they just likes whatever they likes. I have a lot of fun with trying to trick them into doing things my way but in my heart I know who's boss.
Just picked up a Walker, so forgive me ... a 'newbie' question, although my Dad shot a ROA for years.
But with powder, then a lube cookie or lubed wad and a ball sized so that it completely shaves a 'ring' off when seated ... is the grease on top really necessary (to prevent 'chain fires', not for cleaning purposes)?
I thought it was proven that chain fires where predominantly the result from ill-fitting caps?
But with powder, then a lube cookie or lubed wad and a ball sized so that it completely shaves a 'ring' off when seated ... is the grease on top really necessary (to prevent 'chain fires', not for cleaning purposes)?
I thought it was proven that chain fires where predominantly the result from ill-fitting caps?
Erwan
45 Cal.
About the chain fires, if the bullet has the right caliber you don't need anything, grease or not: the function of the grease is to facilitate the progression of the bullet in the barrel and the groves of the barrel saving the residue soft for the next shot.
If the bullets are well-crimped, no fire from any other chamber can reach the powder.
Most chain fires come from the rear of the cylinder: worn nipples allowing grains of powder to pass through, dirty barrels, and others of that kind, also badly fitted caps, can do it better than shooting without grease...
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It doesn't make much difference either way because experience shows that both work. Lube going down the barrel (either way) helps to cut down on fouling build up and helps with accuracy when you develop a load for what your piece likes. As to how chain fires happen, they happen when that self propelling liquidized burning concoction known as black powder finds the teeny tiniest little path to the next charge.
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In 60 some years of shooting cap and ball guns I’ve had two chainfires. Both from a new Pietta Shooters Model 1863 Remington and both resulted from using from using undersized balls. The owners manual says only .464” balls should be used and all I had were .457. Lesson learned, I now use only home cast .465” ball in that gun. It’s not chain fired since that day.
After that experience I tried to induce a chain fire by loading the revolver as normal but with tightly fitted balls or bullets. Prior to firing I capped only one chamber at a time. I fired several cylinders this way from a Remington Shooters Model, a couple of Colt 1860’s, and a Ruger Old Army. None of them could be made to chain fire from the rear. Maybe if the cones were removed…
For the OP, I use a thin .030” x .463” veggie fiber wads under bullet or ball, these are the same card wads I use for my muzzleloading.45 caliber rifles. Bullets are lubed but if shooting ball I don’t typically bother because ball are used as field reloads for me and I don’t like having to carry lube in the field.
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One of my friends has been plagued with chainfires. I believe his loading technique (shaking hands tossing powder here, there, and everywhere.) is the culprit. Lately he started using the Pyrodex pellets and miraculously his chainfires have stopped… neatness counts.
Any problem in using additional lubed wads rather than corn meal to bring the ball up to the chamber lip?
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More conducive to accuracy ? Yes. No more than 12- 20 grains Goex, Swiss, Old Ensford or Schuetzen 3F. Corn meal filler to top of cylinder. Seat ball just under flush by 40-50 thousands of and inch even all around with a limited depth press. 1/3 beeswax and 2/3 Crisco lube over chambers. This is load Tech proven to win at the NMLRA / NRA national championships every year...nsp
Thanks all for your responses to my question!
Ya. Couple times I spilled powder on the cylinder while loading I just removed the cylinder to clean it off and start over.
For years I only loaded my revolvers with wads. Until I started watching Old Ranger on YT. He does alot of various testing with these revolvers. After watching this video,
I went out to my back yard range and did the same, I bench tested them with wads vs no wads. I got the same results. They shot a tighter group without the wads. No sweat off my nose though, that just meant I don't have to make the things anymore. Some folks will say that the lube over the ball is messy. Again, no sweat, I just take a towel to wipe the thing off between loadings.
I went out to my back yard range and did the same, I bench tested them with wads vs no wads. I got the same results. They shot a tighter group without the wads. No sweat off my nose though, that just meant I don't have to make the things anymore. Some folks will say that the lube over the ball is messy. Again, no sweat, I just take a towel to wipe the thing off between loadings.
.50 + 11
32 Cal
Just for me: the horror potential of chain fire is sorta like holding a hand grenade while it explodes. In cooler weather I've even used Crisco. Not losing my favorite hands over a tablespoon of grease and 12 seconds.
