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Smooth bore metal finish

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DrLaw

DrLaw

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Question for those who might know, though you might have to be a bit old to really know.

What metal finish did the Flintlock Fowlers have? Blued, French blue, In the White or browned? I have one of the Kibler Fowlers on order, and was thinking of leaving it in the white, but I would rather be more historically correct if that was not what was done.

The Doc, though full of some knowledge, doesn't know this one, and is out now. :cool:
 
Blue and French grey/in white was common. Brown was more of a nineteenth century thing and more of a southren thing
Most originals today are brown owing to age/patina.
Blueing was complex and most’ over the counter guns ‘ were just white.
Ofcouse if not kept buffed they greyed.
 
The majority of American fowlers would be browned . On orders for N.W. trade guns , this order in 1780 they ask for half the order to have blued barrels the other half to have browned barrels . Late 18th and early 19th you see blued barrels mentioned .
 
DrLaw said:
Question for those who might know, though you might have to be a bit old to really know.

What metal finish did the Flintlock Fowlers have? Blued, French blue, In the White or browned? I have one of the Kibler Fowlers on order, and was thinking of leaving it in the white, but I would rather be more historically correct if that was not what was done.

The Doc, though full of some knowledge, doesn't know this one, and is out now. :cool:
Click to expand...
What quality Flintlock Fowlers and from what manufacture and from what period? The question is so broad and vague.
If you are focusing on the Kibler Fowler, he identified the time period and quality he is recreating in his kit. Best to look into that and delve into it. Might be an interesting bit of research for you 😉
 
I'm sure "all of the above" applies when it comes to finishes on firearms of the period.
 
PathfinderNC said:
What quality Flintlock Fowlers and from what manufacture and from what period? The question is so broad and vague.
If you are focusing on the Kibler Fowler, he identified the time period and quality he is recreating in his kit. Best to look into that and delve into it. Might be an interesting bit of research for you 😉
Click to expand...

Ah, but I have tried looking into that, seeing as how will say that "Google is your friend". However, I was coming up short for online answers which is why I posted here. Alas, the library in my small town does not have some of the books that I could probably find in bigger, better stocked libraries in the east. So it was from a position of true innocent ignorance that I posed this question.

What quality? I could not begin to tell you as I have no experience in handling either trade guns or fancy rich estate owner/hunter guns, or anything in between. I did see the video that Jim posted, but I have also been getting, as you can see here, differing answers.

I have decided though, that I will leave the finish in the white, and polish the metal. Time will do the rest for me, though at my age, I don't know how long that time will be.

I do appreciate your help with the response, though, sir.

And with that, the Doc is out now. :cool:

(Though I will also say that as more and more time passes, I feel more and more like that old Little Ceasar's "Small Town Pizza Lawyer" lawyer🤪 )

PS. In case anybody wonders, I found an old American Bar Association missive that says that we lawyers can call ourselves Doctors, because that is our degree, but Burger King says I do not have to call ahead for a reservation.
 
RiverRat said:
.....Can you draw file a round barrel?
Click to expand...
THAT is a really great question. And frankly, I'm posting mainly to find out what the experts here have to say.

Having only draw-filed octagon barrels, I think the way I'd approach a round barrel is by sanding. Starting out with some pretty coarse grit, maybe as coarse as 80, and by cutting a strip of it off the paper, then backing it with duct tape, and then holding both edges and sanding with a lengthwise motion along the barrel, just like you'd draw file, rotating barrel (held in a padded vise, of course) as needed to equally sand entire surface. Same as draw-filing except you're doing it with sandpaper instead. Might require a bit more elbow grease since the sandpaper doesn't "cut" to the same degree as a file. Follow up with finer grits as needed.

I'm just hypothesizing; never done it that way, but lacking further guidance from the experts, that's how I'd start.
 

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