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Osage Orange for ramrods?

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I have a lot of ash sawn and yet to be sawed . I wouldn’t even know how to make a proper ramrod. If i did i would make a dozen or so for future projects.
 
I tried to make osage arrows. They are extra flexible and wouldnt spine up. I have a suspicion a ram rod would be worse at the extra length required.
 
sportster73hp said:
I have a lot of ash sawn and yet to be sawed . I wouldn’t even know how to make a proper ramrod. If i did i would make a dozen or so for future projects.
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I use a Veritas doweler which is excellent for speed and more production but there is a simple and economical method that is very well illustrated in the link below. It's about arrow shafts but the methodology is the same for making ram rods. The only difference is that in making ram rods you will need a jig long enough to make the rods of interest.

 
Osage is my favorite material for hammer handles. You can pound as hard as you need to when smithing and the head won't break off the handle. With that kind of toughness, and osage ramrod should easily last a lifetime as you won't abuse it that much.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
Ohio Rusty said:
Osage is my favorite material for hammer handles. You can pound as hard as you need to when smithing and the head won't break off the handle. With that kind of toughness, and osage ramrod should easily last a lifetime as you won't abuse it that much.
Ohio Rusty ><>
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Have a hatchet head hung on an osage shoot. Literally growing the head into the handle.
 
SeaBee133 said:
The weak rod is the factory Interarm issued oil finished mystery wood.
Only “problem” with Osage is it outgasses while turning from Mt Dew yellow to ochre as it dries. It stinks, bad.
Oh, it also sparks, and eats chisels.
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Eats chain saw chains too.
 
SeaBee133 said:
Have a perfectly straight wind killed bois d’arc that will be split for bow staves. Thinking that the narrow “scrap” splits might make servicable ramrod billets.
If you have not used it, the wood wears like iron. Anvil stable, and twice as tough. I already use small scraps in my traditional forge, it burns as nice as anthracite, just watch for sparks.
The ramrod for my .54 GPR is about as stable as green willow twigs, i.e., not very. I have a couple hundred Osage trees that are select pruned by local traditional bowyers. I prefer wood to fiberglass or metal. Dowel sizing/shaping jig “should” produce a consistent rod blank. Works fine with iron bark elm.
Feasible? Thanks y’all
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As a side note, in the mid-1970’s I once had to cut up about 30 old hedge fence posts of approximately 3 to 5 inches in diameter when clearing out an old fence row on an old farm that were positively known to have been driven into the ground at least 50 years prior.
They were tough as nails and still a little green on the inside. Crooked as could be, and so hard it was almost impossible to drive a nail or steeple into them.
I also know of a 10” diameter hedge corner post that had been set in the ground for 75 years and was not rotted or loose in the ground and was still in use.

Just thought someone might find my stories of interest.
 
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smoothshooter said:
As a side note, in the mid-1970’s I once had to cut up about 30 old hedge fence posts of approximately 3 to 5 inches in diameter when clearing out an old fence row on an old farm that were positively known to have been driven into the ground at least 50 years prior.
They were tough as nails and still a little green on the inside. Crooked as could be, and so hard it was almost impossible to drive a nail or steeple into them.
I also know of a 10” diameter hedge corner post that had been set in the ground for 75 years and was not rotted or loose in the ground and was still in use.

Just thought someone might find my stories of interest.
Click to expand...
They will outlast the holes.
 

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