Traditions Kentucky rifle kit build questions

A quick search of “touch-hole alignment” tells me that an imaginary line drawn across the flat top of pan should intersect center of hole. That’s ballpark, as it sounds like there are differing opinions. Do a search and you’ll see what I mean!

Your touch hole looks high and some forward. Given that the breech needs to go back against the wood and down you shouldn't have a problem. Ideally the touch hole should be the sunset position. Centered in the pan and half way along the line of the top of the pan. It doesn't have to be perfect to work. If you get a little low you can always grind the flash pan deeper.

Probably already know this, but you need a touch hole liner.

This will give you an idea of how to file the fore stock down to look right. one question I have is where is the bottom of the barrel in relation to the barrel channel at the breech? would help to see a picture of that area without the lock also would like to see a picture of the breech, If there is a hoe through the breech plug for that lock bolt to go through? Also is the tang straight or slightly bent? The tang should be slightly bent to line up with the wood in that area.

kyron4 said:

Probably already know this, but you need a touch hole liner.

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I have it, again this was a dry test fit assembly

ronaldrothb49 said:

This will give you an idea of how to file the fore stock down to look right. one question I have is where is the bottom of the barrel in relation to the barrel channel at the breech? would help to see a picture of that area without the lock also would like to see a picture of the breech, If there is a hoe through the breech plug for that lock bolt to go through? Also is the tang straight or slightly bent? The tang should be slightly bent to line up with the wood in that area.

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The tang has a slight bend.

formernuke said:

The tang has a slight bend.

View attachment 352479

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See if a file bites the underside, if it does it's safe to bend it down, but be very careful. Tiny bit at a time.

That gap between the bottom flat is the first problem you need to work on. The bottom flat of the barrel should be resting flat on the wood. I would take the barrel out and using a long straight edge to see if there is a high spot in the barrel channel or perhaps a tight spot along the sides of the barrel channel. Or it could be a tight spot on the inlet for the tang. This definitely needs to be the first thing you work on because as the barrel goes down the top of the breech is going to move down and back towards the wood at the breech. The tang will also move down and back slightly. The top of the barrel needs to be at least even with the wood or better if it ends up slightly below the wood at the breech. If after you get the barrel where it belongs the tang is still proud of the wood you can bend it just slightly more or file it down to be even with the wood.

ronaldrothb49 said:

That gap between the bottom flat is the first problem you need to work on. The bottom flat of the barrel should be resting flat on the wood. I would take the barrel out and using a long straight edge to see if there is a high spot in the barrel channel or perhaps a tight spot along the sides of the barrel channel. Or it could be a tight spot on the inlet for the tang. This definitely needs to be the first thing you work on because as the barrel goes down the top of the breech is going to move down and back towards the wood at the breech. The tang will also move down and back slightly. The top of the barrel needs to be at least even with the wood or better if it ends up slightly below the wood at the breech. If after you get the barrel where it belongs the tang is still proud of the wood you can bend it just slightly more or file it down to be even with the wood.

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I'm hoping when I sand the tang channel down the barrel will fit better.

formernuke said:

I'm hoping when I sand the tang channel down the barrel will fit better.

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Just thought of something you could do. You don't have any sights on it so flip the barrel around and install in the barrel channel with the muzzle at the breech and the top flat used as the bottom flat. Does the barrel fit down flat in the channel or is there still a gap?

ronaldrothb49 said:

Just thought of something you could do. You don't have any sights on it so flip the barrel around and install in the barrel channel with the muzzle at the breech and the top flat used as the bottom flat. Does the barrel fit down flat in the channel or is there still a gap?

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I'll try that, thanks.

New to the forum, but I have built a couple flintlocks and done repairs/modification on several others. +1 to everything ronald posted. You need to figure out where the barrel or tang is contacting the wood so you can remove wood in the correct spot to get the barrel to sit down in the channel properly. Don't just guess, you will end up removing wood where you don't need to and end up with gaps or it not fitting correctly. I'm surprised no one has suggested some kind of inletting fluid. You can even use a magic marker. Put the fluid (or marker) on the bottom three flats and bottom and sides of the tang. Put the barrel in the stock and use a wood or plastic mallet or tool handle and tap along the top of the tang and barrel. This will leave marks from the fluid anywhere the metal is touching the wood and will show you where you need to remove wood. You need to look carefully, sometimes it is just a tiny spot where the contact is.
From what I can see in your photos, the vent position looks fine once you get the barrel to sit down in the channel properly.
Also, from the circle mark around the vent, it looks like this barrel may have been a percussion barrel and had a drum that was removed maybe?

What about the barrel? I have 2 thoughts.

1. I do like the look of the steel so steel wool the rust off and then frog lube the exterior.

2. Blue it, i have no idea how to do this.

Thoughts from the hive mind?

Got the tang and barrel to fit right i think, does the channel line up right and do i need to fill in some?