• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Where to FindSteel Hardware for a T/C Hawken

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Messages
414
Reaction score
400
I have a T/C hawken rifle with the standard brass hardware on it. I really prefer blued steel and was wondering if someone can point me in the direction of those parts?? I'd prefer not to have to re-cut the buttplate curve!
 
Just in case you didn't already know, the steel replacement parts don't include a patchbox cover.
 
Consider doing what I did to my T\C. I'm not a fan of brass on a hunting rifle so I took the T\C brass, sanded off that "finish stuff" the factory applied to the brass, then using a brass blacking solution, made it all black. BTW, the triggers and trigger guard in the photo are repro's of a real Hawken. I never liked the T\C version so I just changed those.

The T\C trigger plate is not really case hardened. That T\C finish comes off pretty easy. IIRC I used Naval Jelly. Watch navel jelly....it will remove bluing off of anything it touches in seconds.


xOf9pt9l.jpg


WZvrRoFl.jpg
 
Consider doing what I did to my T\C. I'm not a fan of brass on a hunting rifle so I took the T\C brass, sanded off that "finish stuff" the factory applied to the brass, then using a brass blacking solution, made it all black. BTW, the triggers and trigger guard in the photo are repro's of a real Hawken. I never liked the T\C version so I just changed those.

The T\C trigger plate is not really case hardened. That T\C finish comes off pretty easy. IIRC I used Naval Jelly. Watch navel jelly....it will remove bluing off of anything it touches in seconds.


xOf9pt9l.jpg


WZvrRoFl.jpg

Chuck,
How durable is that finish? Is that somethig that is as durable as bluing or browning?
 
I don't know about the product mentioned above but I bought a TC stock with brass fittings that some on had blackened the brass with something, the only way to get off the black was to sand it off and it didn't sand off easily.
 
Chuck,
How durable is that finish? Is that somethig that is as durable as bluing or browning?
As durable as bluing or browning? Well, like anything else it will depend upon use. Using a blued or brown rifle enough and the edges will wear. I'm very happy with the performance and durability of the product. Now, what I did was (using some fine steel wool) "knocked back" some of the blacking in order to get a very dull brass. Here's what I ended up with and it still looks the same today.

The product only cost $7.50 https://www.historichouseparts.com/brass-darkening-solution-8-oz-.html and probably another $6 for shipping. (Shipping cost drive me nutz!!) So, if you want to take a stab at it and you end up not liking it, you can just remove it completely with elbow grease and steel wool. You won't lose much but your time.

oq511EMl.jpg
qzzakmpl.jpg
OnLMstal.jpg
4iFyiT5l.jpg
 
I have a T/C hawken rifle with the standard brass hardware on it. I really prefer blued steel and was wondering if someone can point me in the direction of those parts?? I'd prefer not to have to re-cut the buttplate curve!
Between cost and availability you'll be better off blueing your brass hardware. Blueing or residue from cleaning patches will blacken brass.
 
I have a Cabelas (Investarms) Hawken that I did the same thing as Chuck using Birchwood Casey's Brass Black. The brass came out looking kind of like fire blued steel.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top