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Jappo

Jappo

Poco Loco
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Howdy all,
Hope this question is ok on here. There is a local person offered me a 45 caliber pistol. A Hi-Hunter Miroku Japan.
I asked him how much, he said make him an offer. I don't like putting prices on other peoples stuff. He has 3 other rifles for sale along with this pistol. He's was actually wanting a lump sum for all four items. More than I can afford and have no use for. Told him I might be interested in the pistol. I have no idea on the value. The MADE IN JAPAN thing kinda makes a person leary about it.
He said it functions as it should and the bore is shiny.
Even if I don't "need" it. What would be a fair price for one of these?
 

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I do like Miroku firearms, they are well made and reproduction cartridge guns are spot on. So I don't know how this pistol came out of BC Miroku. The architecture is wrong, the trigger and trigger guard appear unfinished, and the wood looks like an old 2X4; I would say about $75 for parts or a beginning project piece.
 
Well I went ahead and got it. Along with a 45 caliber CVA double trigger and iron rear sight. Patch box, double wedge. Only thing wrong with it is set trigger is not working.
I have the original photo. I have it tore down already. Haven't took the triggers off yet.
Got em both for $180. He threw in a white powder horn.
 

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Scott Jones said:
I do like Miroku firearms, they are well made and reproduction cartridge guns are spot on. So I don't know how this pistol came out of BC Miroku. The architecture is wrong, the trigger and trigger guard appear unfinished, and the wood looks like an old 2X4; I would say about $75 for parts or a beginning project piece.
Click to expand...
After closer inspection I believe it was a kit. The front cap is in the rough. The trigger and guard need to be inletted more. Besides that it shoots. The trigger is a lot different than those wobbly Dikar, Jukar CVAs
 
If they have good bores $180 for the pair sounds like a good deal to me. The pistol could use a little work but one I had like it was a good, fun shooter. Always liked those CVA Mountain Rifles too!
 
Yes the bores are excellent.
I got the triggers fixed on the CVA. The little spring was missing.
Having trouble with the CVA mountain lock. I'm thinking the wrong parts were replaced. The sear sits too deep and won't trip except by force. The adjustment screw serves no purpose. If I adjust it to where the sear releases good, the screw hits the trip lever and locks up the whole mechanism.
 

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So that tiny screw is to adjust the trigger pull. It's supposed to block the sear from engaging fully into the full-**** notch. I've something similar on a CVA lock. ODD though as all of the other examples of such an adjustment screw, Including my own, were for single trigger systems, NOT for set triggers. The idea I believe was to allow the shooter with the single trigger to adjust the lock for a moderate pressure rather than a heavy trigger pull.

I wonder if that rifle has such because the set trigger is an addition OR if the lock was from a very similar rifle so dropped right into the lock mortise, but it really belongs on a single trigger rifle.

LD
 
Loyalist Dave said:
So that tiny screw is to adjust the trigger pull. It's supposed to block the sear from engaging fully into the full-**** notch. I've something similar on a CVA lock. ODD though as all of the other examples of such an adjustment screw, Including my own, were for single trigger systems, NOT for set triggers. The idea I believe was to allow the shooter with the single trigger to adjust the lock for a moderate pressure rather than a heavy trigger pull.

I wonder if that rifle has such because the set trigger is an addition OR if the lock was from a very similar rifle so dropped right into the lock mortise, but it really belongs on a single trigger rifle.

LD
Click to expand...
Well the thing is I have a 50 and 54 caliber with the set triggers and both have that little adjustment screw.
 

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Here are photos of how I solved the problem on an old percussion shotgun lock I'm using on my next build.
The bottom photo shows a piece of brass I soft soldered onto the sear and filed to decrease the sear engagement with the full **** notch. The top photo shows the sear in the half **** notch.

Grinding down the full **** notch is not an option since the sear will drop into the half **** notch when the trigger is pulled, especially on a single trigger gun like this one. The edge of the full **** notch needs to be further away from the center pivot point of the tumbler than the edge of the half **** notch.

I may need to replace the brass shim and readjust things when the gun is assembled to get the pull right.

1730136571798.png

1730136606967.png
 
And even then if it is for a single trigger, the adjustment screw is still the same. It shouldn't hit the trip lever.
The Crisco Kid said:
Here are photos of how I solved the problem on an old percussion shotgun lock I'm using on my next build.
The bottom photo shows a piece of brass I soft soldered onto the sear and filed to decrease the sear engagement with the full **** notch. The top photo shows the sear in the half **** notch.

Grinding down the full **** notch is not an option since the sear will drop into the half **** notch when the trigger is pulled, especially on a single trigger gun like this one. The edge of the full **** notch needs to be further away from the center pivot point of the tumbler than the edge of the half **** notch.

I may need to replace the brass shim and readjust things when the gun is assembled to get the pull right.

View attachment 358561
View attachment 358563
Click to expand...
Ok, I see that. I got it to work. I used some Arkansas stone on the sear of the trip lever. A little at a time until it works good. Works great now. Did away with that little screw.
Another thing I found on it is the half **** doesn't leave enough room to put a cap on it. Have to pull the hammer back or go into full **** then lower to half ****.
Besides that, it works.
 
Jappo said:
Well the thing is I have a 50 and 54 caliber with the set triggers and both have that little adjustment screw.
Click to expand...
Interesting
NOTE the difference between your two sears and the adjustment screws, and your new rifle's sear with the adjustment screw. My lock sear looks like your previously owned lock sears, but your new sear looks wrong. So NOW I wonder if the factory put the wrong sear into the lock (or did it break and get adjusted) or if the current sear is an incorrect replacement for your lock. Your previously bought locks and mine all have a "flat" portion of the sear for the adjustment screw to bear down upon, but your new lock as you previously pointed out in a photo, doesn't work well with that adjustment screw.

LD
 
Loyalist Dave said:
Interesting
NOTE the difference between your two sears and the adjustment screws, and your new rifle's sear with the adjustment screw. My lock sear looks like your previously owned lock sears, but your new sear looks wrong. So NOW I wonder if the factory put the wrong sear into the lock (or did it break and get adjusted) or if the current sear is an incorrect replacement for your lock. Your previously bought locks and mine all have a "flat" portion of the sear for the adjustment screw to bear down upon, but your new lock as you previously pointed out in a photo, doesn't work well with that adjustment screw.

LD
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm thinking someone did some parts changing. It worked good as it was with just the front trigger. Took it apart and the front trigger had the little spring missing. Replaced it and they worked good. Set them back and the rear trigger couldn't set it off. That's when I noticed what was going on.
I did away with the screw and polished away at the sear. Little at a time. Now it works as it should.
 
Great deal for a CVA Mountain Rifle. I can't really tell by the lock pictures, but is the fly in place? Also, the tip of that sear may have been broken off, a common issue with those locks. But if you got it functioning, good for you!
 
rafterob said:
Great deal for a CVA Mountain Rifle. I can't really tell by the lock pictures, but is the fly in place? Also, the tip of that sear may have been broken off, a common issue with those locks. But if you got it functioning, good for you!
Click to expand...
The fly was out when I took the picture as was the plate.
I had it apart so I could see what was going on and take pictures.
If I may ask, whats the difference between the mountain and the Hawken ?
 
A longer barrel and an extra barrel wedge. The Mountain Rifle has a 32" Barrel and the Hawken a 28" barrel. The Mountain rifle is the most sought sfter CVA rifle. They can go for 4-500 bucks in the current market.
 
Jappo said:
Howdy all,
Hope this question is ok on here. There is a local person offered me a 45 caliber pistol. A Hi-Hunter Miroku Japan.
I asked him how much, he said make him an offer. I don't like putting prices on other peoples stuff. He has 3 other rifles for sale along with this pistol. He's was actually wanting a lump sum for all four items. More than I can afford and have no use for. Told him I might be interested in the pistol. I have no idea on the value. The MADE IN JAPAN thing kinda makes a person leary about it.
He said it functions as it should and the bore is shiny.
Even if I don't "need" it. What would be a fair price for one of these?
Click to expand...
Miroku makes the highest quality guns imaginable for the Browning Co., etc. Not all their products are that high, but this little pistol is neat-o! I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Japanese guns like the M1861 Springfield replica of a couple decades back are highly desirable. The good photo you posted shows a really nice pistol, I wish I had a chance to buy it!! If you could buy that for 200, you'd both be fairly compensated. Personally, I'd get all four depending what they were, and sell for a bit of profit so that I wound up with the pistol for free! Good luck, let us know!
 

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