Ultra-Hi Miroku Japan

[Jappo]

Howdy all,
Hope this question is ok on here. There is a local person offered me a 45 caliber pistol. A Hi-Hunter Miroku Japan.
I asked him how much, he said make him an offer. I don't like putting prices on other peoples stuff. He has 3 other rifles for sale along with this pistol. He's was actually wanting a lump sum for all four items. More than I can afford and have no use for. Told him I might be interested in the pistol. I have no idea on the value. The MADE IN JAPAN thing kinda makes a person leary about it.
He said it functions as it should and the bore is shiny.
Even if I don't "need" it. What would be a fair price for one of these?

 

[VA Hawken]

Miroku manufactured a lot of unmentionables for Browning and the quality of those was excellent!

 

[Scott Jones]

I do like Miroku firearms, they are well made and reproduction cartridge guns are spot on. So I don't know how this pistol came out of BC Miroku. The architecture is wrong, the trigger and trigger guard appear unfinished, and the wood looks like an old 2X4; I would say about $75 for parts or a beginning project piece.

 

[wiscoaster]

.....The MADE IN JAPAN thing kinda makes a person leary about it.
.....

No, that makes it more desirable, but don't clue him in on it. You might get it for a song.

 

[Jappo]

Well I went ahead and got it. Along with a 45 caliber CVA double trigger and iron rear sight. Patch box, double wedge. Only thing wrong with it is set trigger is not working.
I have the original photo. I have it tore down already. Haven't took the triggers off yet.
Got em both for $180. He threw in a white powder horn.

 

[Jappo]

I do like Miroku firearms, they are well made and reproduction cartridge guns are spot on. So I don't know how this pistol came out of BC Miroku. The architecture is wrong, the trigger and trigger guard appear unfinished, and the wood looks like an old 2X4; I would say about $75 for parts or a beginning project piece.

After closer inspection I believe it was a kit. The front cap is in the rough. The trigger and guard need to be inletted more. Besides that it shoots. The trigger is a lot different than those wobbly Dikar, Jukar CVAs

 

[desi23]

If they have good bores $180 for the pair sounds like a good deal to me. The pistol could use a little work but one I had like it was a good, fun shooter. Always liked those CVA Mountain Rifles too!

 

[Jappo]

Yes the bores are excellent.
I got the triggers fixed on the CVA. The little spring was missing.
Having trouble with the CVA mountain lock. I'm thinking the wrong parts were replaced. The sear sits too deep and won't trip except by force. The adjustment screw serves no purpose. If I adjust it to where the sear releases good, the screw hits the trip lever and locks up the whole mechanism.

 

[Jappo]

You can see where the screw has been dragging.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

So that tiny screw is to adjust the trigger pull. It's supposed to block the sear from engaging fully into the full-cock notch. I've something similar on a CVA lock. ODD though as all of the other examples of such an adjustment screw, Including my own, were for single trigger systems, NOT for set triggers. The idea I believe was to allow the shooter with the single trigger to adjust the lock for a moderate pressure rather than a heavy trigger pull.

I wonder if that rifle has such because the set trigger is an addition OR if the lock was from a very similar rifle so dropped right into the lock mortise, but it really belongs on a single trigger rifle.

LD

 

[Jappo]

So that tiny screw is to adjust the trigger pull. It's supposed to block the sear from engaging fully into the full-cock notch. I've something similar on a CVA lock. ODD though as all of the other examples of such an adjustment screw, Including my own, were for single trigger systems, NOT for set triggers. The idea I believe was to allow the shooter with the single trigger to adjust the lock for a moderate pressure rather than a heavy trigger pull.

I wonder if that rifle has such because the set trigger is an addition OR if the lock was from a very similar rifle so dropped right into the lock mortise, but it really belongs on a single trigger rifle.

LD

Well the thing is I have a 50 and 54 caliber with the set triggers and both have that little adjustment screw.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Here are photos of how I solved the problem on an old percussion shotgun lock I'm using on my next build.
The bottom photo shows a piece of brass I soft soldered onto the sear and filed to decrease the sear engagement with the full cock notch. The top photo shows the sear in the half cock notch.

Grinding down the full cock notch is not an option since the sear will drop into the half cock notch when the trigger is pulled, especially on a single trigger gun like this one. The edge of the full cock notch needs to be further away from the center pivot point of the tumbler than the edge of the half cock notch.

I may need to replace the brass shim and readjust things when the gun is assembled to get the pull right.

 

[Jappo]

And even then if it is for a single trigger, the adjustment screw is still the same. It shouldn't hit the trip lever.

Here are photos of how I solved the problem on an old percussion shotgun lock I'm using on my next build.
The bottom photo shows a piece of brass I soft soldered onto the sear and filed to decrease the sear engagement with the full cock notch. The top photo shows the sear in the half cock notch.

Grinding down the full cock notch is not an option since the sear will drop into the half cock notch when the trigger is pulled, especially on a single trigger gun like this one. The edge of the full cock notch needs to be further away from the center pivot point of the tumbler than the edge of the half cock notch.

I may need to replace the brass shim and readjust things when the gun is assembled to get the pull right.

View attachment 358561
View attachment 358563

Ok, I see that. I got it to work. I used some Arkansas stone on the sear of the trip lever. A little at a time until it works good. Works great now. Did away with that little screw.
Another thing I found on it is the half cock doesn't leave enough room to put a cap on it. Have to pull the hammer back or go into full cock then lower to half cock.
Besides that, it works.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Well the thing is I have a 50 and 54 caliber with the set triggers and both have that little adjustment screw.

Interesting
NOTE the difference between your two sears and the adjustment screws, and your new rifle's sear with the adjustment screw. My lock sear looks like your previously owned lock sears, but your new sear looks wrong. So NOW I wonder if the factory put the wrong sear into the lock (or did it break and get adjusted) or if the current sear is an incorrect replacement for your lock. Your previously bought locks and mine all have a "flat" portion of the sear for the adjustment screw to bear down upon, but your new lock as you previously pointed out in a photo, doesn't work well with that adjustment screw.

LD

 

[Jappo]

Interesting
NOTE the difference between your two sears and the adjustment screws, and your new rifle's sear with the adjustment screw. My lock sear looks like your previously owned lock sears, but your new sear looks wrong. So NOW I wonder if the factory put the wrong sear into the lock (or did it break and get adjusted) or if the current sear is an incorrect replacement for your lock. Your previously bought locks and mine all have a "flat" portion of the sear for the adjustment screw to bear down upon, but your new lock as you previously pointed out in a photo, doesn't work well with that adjustment screw.

LD

Yeah I'm thinking someone did some parts changing. It worked good as it was with just the front trigger. Took it apart and the front trigger had the little spring missing. Replaced it and they worked good. Set them back and the rear trigger couldn't set it off. That's when I noticed what was going on.
I did away with the screw and polished away at the sear. Little at a time. Now it works as it should.