My first flintlock was a Pedersoli Kentucky. Most aggravating thing ever. The touch hole was so small the only thing you could get in it was a nipple pick. The liner was coned on the inside and after each shot I would put the nipple pick in and try to angle it some on the inside to clean it. Still no good. About three quarters through our monthly shoots I was having to prime several times to get ignition. When I would get it home I would take the liner out and there was fouling build up on the entire inside with only a small opening going through that fouling from the nipple pick. No wonder it was so hard to go off. That happened month after month. Finally I drilled it out some and no more problems with the touch hole.
Larger Flash Hole
- Thread starter bummy
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on my best one (the first I put together ) this is a late 70's CVA kentucky kit that I converted from percussion to flint (also a first) 30 years ago when i assembled it (i have since done several for friends and customers) I went through all of the learning curve stuff now it is a shooting tack driver (as long as I do my part tough to do with the shaking in my hands and 2 eye surgeries in each eye) it's a running joke in deer camp good for a couple of beers Mn law says that a flint is unloaded as long as the pan is empty mine will go off every time without any prime in the pan. i always prime when hunting but it's never failed to go off with the pan empty and wiped out
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It would seem to me, that if you were cleaning between shots, there would be a good chance of pushing fouling into the touch hole.
beardedhorse
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Besides loss of pressure and power from enlarging the touch hole diameter, gas cutting from hot gases will erode and enlarge the touch hole, often resulting in an elliptical opening. Constant and uneven erosion will sure mess up accuracy and cut slits into your pan and lock bolster if left unchecked.
Yes and yes.
Thanks
Go back and read the 2 links I posted.
gustrolland
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I would say not to do it, but I know an older competition shooter that opened his flash hole. And that man could really shoot. .070 is not out of reason by me. I have only been shooting flinters for a little over 50 years. And its your gun, and you CAN reline the flash hole if you change your mind.
On removable vent liners, I make sure the interior is also flared.
Did I miss the part of this discussion where the lock is probably an equal part of the problem or are we waiting to for some results feedback? For what its worth OP. If you like the flintlocks and are willing to upgrade. Whether it be Kibler, Chambers, etc. you won't regret it. My first two were Pedersoli's. I got them to work reliably but were still meh, each for its own reasons. Bought a Kibler and now own three of his four offerings. No comparison with the import stuff we see.
Thanks Indy. I just may take the step and upgrade to a Kibler.
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Yep ......
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Yep ....as long as the T.H. is in the correct position in relation to the pan and in relation to the face of the breech ...
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My guess is the sparks from the frizzen are not being directed into the pan properly and erratic ignition may be caused by spark focus missing the pan charge . If the sparks have to bounce around some before hitting the pan charge it can cause misfire or slow ignition. I had similar problems with a high end match flint pistol requiring the **** to be heated and bent forward a few degrees to both increase spark production and focus the spark shower into the pan charge better. It cured the problem in this gun.
For those of us not blessed with owning a Kibler, drilling it out works just fine.
You might also try an RMC touchhole liner. Ive had good luck with those.
