Larger Flash Hole

[Flint1]

My first flintlock was a Pedersoli Kentucky. Most aggravating thing ever. The touch hole was so small the only thing you could get in it was a nipple pick. The liner was coned on the inside and after each shot I would put the nipple pick in and try to angle it some on the inside to clean it. Still no good. About three quarters through our monthly shoots I was having to prime several times to get ignition. When I would get it home I would take the liner out and there was fouling build up on the entire inside with only a small opening going through that fouling from the nipple pick. No wonder it was so hard to go off. That happened month after month. Finally I drilled it out some and no more problems with the touch hole.

 

[Rebel bull]

(going to start my own thread for this question)

Is getting a lot of powder in the pan a common occurrence for you guys?

on my best one (the first I put together ) this is a late 70's CVA kentucky kit that I converted from percussion to flint (also a first) 30 years ago when i assembled it (i have since done several for friends and customers) I went through all of the learning curve stuff now it is a shooting tack driver (as long as I do my part tough to do with the shaking in my hands and 2 eye surgeries in each eye) it's a running joke in deer camp good for a couple of beers Mn law says that a flint is unloaded as long as the pan is empty mine will go off every time without any prime in the pan. i always prime when hunting but it's never failed to go off with the pan empty and wiped out

 

[Griz 54]

If you are getting a reliable flash in the pan or hang fires, there is something between the pan and the powder charge preventing ignition of the powder. Yeah, the new L&R lock won't help if the issue is between the touch hole and the powder charge.

Key to a lot of these issues is the chambered breech and the accumulation of oils drying out after cleaning. After cleaning, store the gun muzzle down. Use a stiff bristled pipe cleaner or an airgun or welding tip cleaning brush to clean from the touch hole through to the powder charge. Use a sub caliber (22 up to 30 caliber) cleaning brush to scrub out the chambered breech. Your use of rubbing alcohol and the air compressor to prep the gun before loading is good. Do block the touch hole and let the rubbing alcohol do its job of softening and loosening the dried on grease and fouling.

It would seem to me, that if you were cleaning between shots, there would be a good chance of pushing fouling into the touch hole.

 

[beardedhorse]

Besides loss of pressure and power from enlarging the touch hole diameter, gas cutting from hot gases will erode and enlarge the touch hole, often resulting in an elliptical opening. Constant and uneven erosion will sure mess up accuracy and cut slits into your pan and lock bolster if left unchecked.

 

[bummy]

Do you think the length of the touch hole matters. Is a shorter hole better?

 

[wiscoaster]

Do you think the length of the touch hole matters. Is a shorter hole better?

Yes and yes.

 

[bummy]

Yes and yes.

Thanks

 

[Tumbledown]

Do you think the length of the touch hole matters. Is a shorter hole better?

Go back and read the 2 links I posted.

 

[gustrolland]

Hello everyone.
My question is, will opening up my flash hole from .0625 to .070 dia. on my flint lock rifle make ignition more reliable?
Thanks.

I would say not to do it, but I know an older competition shooter that opened his flash hole. And that man could really shoot. .070 is not out of reason by me. I have only been shooting flinters for a little over 50 years. And its your gun, and you CAN reline the flash hole if you change your mind.

 

[bpd303]

slight countersink to flare out the opening

On removable vent liners, I make sure the interior is also flared.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

Did I miss the part of this discussion where the lock is probably an equal part of the problem or are we waiting to for some results feedback? For what its worth OP. If you like the flintlocks and are willing to upgrade. Whether it be Kibler, Chambers, etc. you won't regret it. My first two were Pedersoli's. I got them to work reliably but were still meh, each for its own reasons. Bought a Kibler and now own three of his four offerings. No comparison with the import stuff we see.

 

[bummy]

Did I miss the part of this discussion where the lock is probably an equal part of the problem or are we waiting to for some results feedback? For what its worth OP. If you like the flintlocks and are willing to upgrade. Whether it be Kibler, Chambers, etc. you won't regret it. My first two were Pedersoli's. I got them to work reliably but were still meh, each for its own reasons. Bought a Kibler and now own three of his four offerings. No comparison with the import stuff we see.

Thanks Indy. I just may take the step and upgrade to a Kibler.

 

[Rob M.]

Yep ......

 

[Rob M.]

Hello everyone.
My question is, will opening up my flash hole from .0625 to .070 dia. on my flint lock rifle make ignition more reliable?
Thanks.

Yep ....as long as the T.H. is in the correct position in relation to the pan and in relation to the face of the breech ...

 

[M. De Land]

I bought a Invest Arms Hawken style rifle .50 CAL. new from Dixie Gun Works. I had reliability problems with ignition. I've tried every thing that I know, my club members know, our forum knows and YouTube knows.

new English flints, tried both bevel and bevel down
.062 flash hole dia. in the sunset position
4f powder in the flash pan (Goex)
50 gr. 3f main charge (Goex)
.490 RB
.018 thick pre lubed patch
flash pan powder towards the outside and inside of flash pan
tapped on barrel to make sure powder is in the patent breech
picked flash before each shot
Sometimes I get flash in the pan but no main charge
Sometimes it goes off okay
Sometimes hang fire
Tough to shoot when it's like this

Bought a new L&R lock, didn't work any better

I'm so frustrated that I'm thinking of buying a Kibler Woods Runner with hopes of better reliability.
PLEASE HELP!!

My guess is the sparks from the frizzen are not being directed into the pan properly and erratic ignition may be caused by spark focus missing the pan charge . If the sparks have to bounce around some before hitting the pan charge it can cause misfire or slow ignition. I had similar problems with a high end match flint pistol requiring the **** to be heated and bent forward a few degrees to both increase spark production and focus the spark shower into the pan charge better. It cured the problem in this gun.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

For those of us not blessed with owning a Kibler, drilling it out works just fine.

 

[BigAl52]

You might also try an RMC touchhole liner. Ive had good luck with those.