• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yesterday I finally patterned my 16ga Kibler Fowler. I did a square load of 70gr 1 1/2f Swiss and that volume of #5 shot. Which according to my shot dipper is 1oz. Disregard my poor drawing. My turkey head ended up looking like a poor representation of a T-Rex
hi, nice pattern , can you tell us about the load as far as wads ect. [is the large hole a wad from a skychief load?] and what was the range on that shot? thanks.
 
hi, nice pattern , can you tell us about the load as far as wads ect. [is the large hole a wad from a skychief load?] and what was the range on that shot? thanks.
Yup I did use the skychief load. Powder/nitro card/shot/fiber wad. Bought the cards and wads from TOTW, and I soaked the wads in my blend of bear grease ans beeswax. The hole is from the wad. Went through the plywood. Didn’t range it off but was 20-25 yds
 
Filed 12 flats on horn. It's a slow process for me. Lots more to do before it's ready to scrimshaw.
 

Attachments

  • 20241102_131143.jpg
    20241102_131143.jpg
    1.3 MB
Just working on the Carolina Gun ....wow , its dragging on ! I need a break after this one ....Ugh !! Antique the stock , steel woolin the stock , then wax the stock , stamped the barrel with LONDON and proof mark , soldered on front blade , made pins for the R.R. pipes and put them on , drill holes in trigger guard for screws , look for screws but all out D@%# !! get some tomorrow hopefully ... Drill hole in S.P. for third screw ... lots of little stuff but didnt get it all done ...gotta fit the T.G. to stock , bring to width and bevel , set it ., get screws , antique screws , set them in etc. , rings on barrel , make tang screw , blah blah blah .....sure hope I can get it all together for pics tomorrow ....then .....tear it all apart again and start on the barrel browning process !! Ugh ... Oh well , little at a time .....
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20241102_160044.jpg
    IMG_20241102_160044.jpg
    2.6 MB
  • IMG_20241031_165925.jpg
    IMG_20241031_165925.jpg
    3.2 MB
Rob, you may have already told us, but how do you center and solder on the blade sight?
I put the Oct. section in the vice and the front section supported ... I collect these pieces of brass from castings I get ...you can use any decent piece of brass though ... I hold the piece of brass against the grinder wheel to get a base , square , started ...then I use needle nose to.hold said brass piece while heating it with torch , flux first ...then touch the base with solder ...it'll stick and go smooth ... I clean the sight spot on barrel and wipe it with flux ....heat the barrel , dont put flame on fluxed spot .....OH SHOOT !! Make sure that front lug is wired on tight !!almost forgot to tell ya that .... With pliers put that front sight in there , on spot ya want it , heat all around the area and the sight blade ...the solder will start to go fluid ... When its fluid ya have it on the barrel , heatvstill moving around, start centering that front sight blade , lookin down ....then go to breech and look down the barrel , see which way it needs to be moved to be center , then back to.muzzleb, heat moving on barrel and passing over blade ... move that sight to center ...keep checking until yer happy with it ...then ....just remove heat and watch that solder ...it'll change ... Itll go.less shiney , means its solid ...take barrel out of vice and hold barrel at breech end and look down barrel ...see if blade is correctb, centered ...if not ...get back to.it ....that barrel is still hot , it wont take much to get it back to heat and adjust that sight blade ... Dont dilly dally ... Keep doin that till yer happy with it ...after its cured you can finish shaping the front blade ...best to.finish it to height at sight in though .....
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1680025507405.jpg
    FB_IMG_1680025507405.jpg
    91.7 KB
Rob great information. I'm going to assume you use 50/50 solder due to the lower melting temperature and broader pasty range?
Oops ! Sorry , didnt mention that ....Yer good !! Yep ...I use 50/50 solder and paste flux . I used it for many years when making colonial tin lanterns and really like its properties . Its getting more difficult to find so I bought a few rolls , should be enough for rest of my life .
 
Pardon the Australian expression, but it was a dry as a dead dingo's donger out on the block today - worse, a desiccating wind was blowing from the southeast. A cautious man wouldn't apply patched ball in these conditions; imagine the repercussions of a hot spark among this tinder! Still, a good walk though.

Cheers, Pete

walk1.JPG


walk2.JPG


walk3.JPG


walk4.JPG


walk5.JPG


walk6.JPG
 
Filed 12 flats on horn. It's a slow process for me. Lots more to do before it's ready to scrimshaw.
i have been trying to do this on a bison horn for my son it frustrates me so much that I've been working on it for almost a decade. I just havn't figured a good way to hold it down solid so I can work on it with both hands. at 70 it's probably the last I will ever make. If I had made his 4 siblings horns out of bison there would have never been even 1
 

Latest posts

Back
Top