I would return it and get my money back. I soured on Pedersoli years ago like Shortfingers.
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Pedersoli flintlock not cocking
- Thread starter Toppkatt
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If it requires service that you can't do, Cabin Creek, the 'lock doctors' will tune it, but that adds cost to something that is brand new! Hope it works out OK!I have a brand new Pedersoli .32 flint lock squirrel rifle. I took it out to the range yesterday for the first time. First thing I did was make sure I had decent sparks. Then I primed the pan and made sure that went off. Next I loaded it. I used 0.310 swagged round ball ( # 1 1/2 buckshot from Ballistic Products), 30 Gr 3F Swiss and a 0.015 patch pre-lubed Ox-yore(?) . (The groove diameter was measured at 0.325). The first shot went off after 2 tries, main charge didn't ignite at first (maybe I didn't have the powder correctly at the opening of the touch hole (vent hole?) (I've only ever fired a flintlock one other time for a total of two shots previously, so I'm not experienced). Re-primed the pan and BOOM. Okay now, the shot was about 6 inches low at 25 yards and 3 inches to the right. That's okay I'm only shooting for function and group right now. Reloaded it with same load and it went BOOM again and the hole was about 1 inch to the left of the first hole and about 1/2 inch lower. Feeling good about this now. Unfortunately, when I fired the shot it seemed to me the trigger was a bit lighter than it was for the first shot, hum. Reloaded and the trigger wouldn't stay at full ****. It kept falling to half **** position. I took out the lock screws and didn't see anything wrong. The fly seemed loose and functioning fine. I reinstalled the lock and this time it fired okay but I did have to re-prime the pan several times, again I'm NOT an experienced flint lock user so I wasn't upset too much just a bit aggravated at myself. This shot was way low and centered but off the target paper. I reloaded a fourth shot and had the same issue with the lock not holding full ****. Repeated the same process. Didn't see any dirt or anything in the lock that would seem to indicate what was going wrong. Reinstalled lock again and now I just could not get it to fire. I re-primed about 6 times making sure I have the powder was up to the touch hole but no dice. I took my ramrod and verified there seemed to be loaded, sticking out further than unloaded mark. Just to make sure I hadn't 'dry balled' I pulled out the lock AGAIN, and removed the vent hold 'plug'. Sure enough there was powder there. I used a vent pick to make sure the hole was open (which it seemed to be) and re-primed. After two more attempts to discharge it went off and the shot was touching the first hold so other than the third shot not a bad group for the first time shooting this rifle and only my second time shooting a flint lock. At this point though I was NOT going to press my luck and went home.
So, does anyone have any ideas/suggestions as to what to look for of do to make this lock more reliable and safe?
THANKS!
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I'm afraid you're right!
I would make sure the trigger is not binding, check to see if it isn't inlet too deep and touching the sear, there should be a little play there.
Perhaps. Have we seen a photo of the backside of the lock? Has he tried transfer color of some sort?
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Returning would involve shipping, and we all know how hazardous that can be! And expensive!
Goli0
32 Cal
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I had a Pedersoli flintlock a few years back. I was not impressed. Many misfires and I had to spend some time pulling bullets from the barrel with a jag. The frizzen put out minimal sparks and the touchhole was all wrong. Then I had a custom flintlock made with a top of the line Chambers lock and a properly drilled touchhole, what a difference!
bpd303 mentioned this but make sure the trigger bar is not contacting the sear at full ****. You want a tiny amount of free play in the trigger before it contacts the sear or it won't go into full ****.
Remove the lock and make sure it functions out of the rifle. Then look for problems in the mortise or trigger. This should be easy to diagnose.
Remove the lock and make sure it functions out of the rifle. Then look for problems in the mortise or trigger. This should be easy to diagnose.
Oh so familiar. 14 months ago I decided to try a flintlock. I found a used Pedersoli Kentucky .45 cal. From a vender at a Rondevous. It was in the amount I wanted to spend. About half of what I saw some other nice rifles.
So I decided to get this for my first flintlock. I don't know how many previous owners it had. Or if all the many things wrong with it was from the factory. It is a model older than yours. A different lock and patchbox design. But still a Pedersoli. I've posted on this Rifle before. So I'll just stick with the bad lock geometry and gap between the barrel and lock bolster. This Rifle has cost me around $5500.00 give or take. It's still disabled, unshootable. But the FIVE Kibler Rifels . That I have put together from then untill a couple of days ago. They are top performers and got me into the Flintlock game.
Someone else has made the statement on here. Getting a good Pedersoli is like winning a lottery. Some get rifles that don't have problems and then others get project guns.
So I decided to get this for my first flintlock. I don't know how many previous owners it had. Or if all the many things wrong with it was from the factory. It is a model older than yours. A different lock and patchbox design. But still a Pedersoli. I've posted on this Rifle before. So I'll just stick with the bad lock geometry and gap between the barrel and lock bolster. This Rifle has cost me around $5500.00 give or take. It's still disabled, unshootable. But the FIVE Kibler Rifels . That I have put together from then untill a couple of days ago. They are top performers and got me into the Flintlock game.
Someone else has made the statement on here. Getting a good Pedersoli is like winning a lottery. Some get rifles that don't have problems and then others get project guns.
A couple years ago, a friend had similar symptoms with his brown bess and called to see if I had any ideas. He sent me a picture of the inside of the lock, and when I enlarged it it I thought maybe I could see a crack at the bend of the sear spring. It wasn't broken clear apart, but enough that the spring had no strength. A new spring fixed it. You might check for something like that.
westrayer
40 Cal
The first step should have been removing the lock and posting a photo of the inside parts along with the post. Would be helpful and keep everyone from guessing?
Who knows about the flints or position of such.
Who knows about the flints or position of such.
