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Looking to get a Confederate style revolver in 36 caliber, with brass frame. Does anyone have opinions on whether older models from the 60's and 70's have softer frames, poorer parts than the new?
Brass frame revolvers
- Thread starter Frod733
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I can't comment on the quality of old vs. new, but today, about your only options are a Spiller and Burr or a Griswold and Gunnison.
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Thanks. Looked at some videos on brass frame guns on youtube. Some think they shoot loose. My shooting would strictly be target with reduced loads so that should not be an issue. Just trying to determine quality vs price.
There's a 36 caliber brass frame called 1851 Colt Navy octagon barrel. Some come with an engraved cylinder and some non engraved.
If you're looking for a Confederate revolver, it looks like a Schneider and Glassic.
From what I've read its an accidental Schneider. It was actually made by the Italians to save money on manufacturing and sell it cheaper than the steel revolver.
If you're looking for a Confederate revolver, it looks like a Schneider and Glassic.
From what I've read its an accidental Schneider. It was actually made by the Italians to save money on manufacturing and sell it cheaper than the steel revolver.
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What I am trying to get at is whether the early cap and balls were of inferior quality and not worth bothering with. Softer brass frame, poor internals, etc. I am looking at defarbing one so an inexpensive one would be suitable, IF, it is of reasonable quality and reliability. Or should I look for something newer. I am planning on it being a shooter as well.
If you can find a vintage one with low mileage it would be fine but if you are really worried about it just buy a new one. Either would work for you.
Speaking of the Griswold, I found a Navy Arms ASM frame, barrel and trigger guard. $97.43. I thought, why not. Found the internals brand new $100.50. Then I found out I needed all the screws, all brand new. $60.95. Still needs a backstrap and grips. And of course a cylinder.
$258.88. A new one is $263.90 up to $306.78. If they have them in stock.
$258.88. A new one is $263.90 up to $306.78. If they have them in stock.
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As long as its a Pietta or Uberti your ok. All the others you are going to find are different brands no longer made and parts are an issue.
I think the wear and tear is user error. Especially the Colts pattern. Too much cylinder gap, heavy loads and driving the wedge too far. That puts a lot of stress on the arbor, pulling it out and messing up the threads.
These are some examples of some that I have gotten in for repairs.
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Yes. They were junk. YouTube channel Blackie Thomas has a very good series on percussion revolvers, and in one (I can’t find the link now, but I think it was about brass frames) he discusses how when the centennial of the US Civil War came around, a lot of gun manufacturers made reproductions of arms from that era. Many were only intended to fire blanks and were simply not very strong and made with low quality materials. These low priced pistols were common on the market into the 1980s. (I certainly had one)
I shoot a pair of 36 cal brass frame for 11 yrs in cowboy action shooting and are still as tight as the day I bought them. I don't load them like a mag. Don't need to. Just shoot them to have fun.
I just bought a Pietta Spiller and Burr .36 with the brass frame. Haven't shot it yet, but it came with a notice to not load it with more than 16 grains.
Yes, the early repros were built to low standards. When I had my ml shop in the '70s I once received a price list for Colt and Remington brass frame repros. The offer was by the gross (144) pistols at a time. Broken down, my cost would have been $4.00 each. Even at that time that was very-very cheap. Certainly not much could have gone in the expense of making those.
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
I shot a couple of brass frame Colt style pistols loose back in the late 60s when a brand new Navy arms G&G cost $60. Bought a steel frame one and shot it a lot more till trading it off. If you need a brass frame to look like a confederate then also buy a steel frame for shooting.
The confederacy made guns that weren’t meet to last just needed anything that went bang.
The confederacy made guns that weren’t meet to last just needed anything that went bang.
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I don't know about the parts quality, but purely for the "feel" in the hand, the Spiller is my fave!!
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Thank for the responses. Just read an article that stated that there is a definite difference in bras quality from the old ones to more modern.
My first BP revolver was a brass frame Hawes 1860 .44 caliber revolver that I purchased used in 1970. It was well used and showed its age. I shot it for two years on and off. It was "loose as a goose" and prone to not indexing correctly. That was the only brass frame BP revolver I purchased except for a Spiller & Burr .36 caliber revolver I purchased 8 months ago but have not shot it yet - I bought it for my collection.
IMO steel frame revolvers look better than brass, are stronger, and for what little extra a steel frame costs over a brass frame of equal model doesn't make sense not to go with steel. Reminds me of a story a tire dealer told me of when a customer (who had the monetary means) chose four cheaper tires over four better quality ones. The better quality ones were on sale and only five dollars per tire over the cheaper ones but the customer zeroed in on the four cheaper ones comparing the regular price of the better ones. Tire dealer advised he tried to explain to the guy he'd get better ride and longer life out of the better ones but the guy was determined and bought the cheap ones and was back alot sooner after the cheap ones were wore out.
I was never aware of the great differences in brass or types until I purchased an Ox Yoke brass ramrod. I tried to thread the end for a handle and my dies simply wouldn't cut it. I finally took it to a gunsmith who threaded it on his machine lathe but only with great difficulty. It was hard-hard-hard. I later did some searching and learned that simply saying "brass" means little, there are many kinds.
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