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I hope your walking lots with the Mrs or at the least she’s walking lots .
What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?
- Thread starter PathfinderNC
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Been working off-an-on on a full stock Hawken flintlock for about a month. Spent around six hours fitting the butt plate and it was looking good. I screwed it in place for a final check. When I went to remove the screw in the end grain it snapped off. Trying to figure out a work around.
MSmith
40 Cal
Consider this method/tool...
https://www.rockler.com/screw-extractor?country=US&promo=shopping&gad_source=1
longcruise
70 Cal.
Exactly what I was going to suggest exc I didn't know there was a special tool for it 
@MSmith , @longcruise , Thank you for the suggestion. I was looking at that screw extractor and wondering if it would work. I will get one on order.
Helped a young buck check his sights, he missed a deer. The kid was about to lose faith in his Mountain Rifle because of a miss on a big deer, turned out it was a bit of buck fever.
Norman Brooks
45 Cal.
May I make a suggestion. Drill appropriate pilot hole and use beeswax on screw thread when installing screws. I have done that same thing once and it wasn't fun getting screw out.
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That is what I would suggest then plug it
Yes, I don't know why I didn't use the wax on this screw. Even had it sitting on the shelf behind me.
I have lubed screw threads in the past with simple hand soap, it works well.
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Have to cast up some sample slugs from a mold that is going to be altered to produce a heavy smooth sided round nose for paper patching in a .458 bore. Get 'em bundled up with the mold and shipped off.
Went shooting dimpled .600 round balls verses smooth round balls for a future video.
The one is full of SNAFU fun.....so...I left the craziness on the video.
I had fun putting it together!
The one is full of SNAFU fun.....so...I left the craziness on the video.
I had fun putting it together!
Banjoman
Eager to learn and willing to teach.
I was able to remove the screw by drilling 1/16" holes around the broken screw. I drilled the depth of the screw. Then I took the smallest screw driver I had and pushed it in connecting the drilled holes. I was then able to move the screw back and forth and using needle nose pliers I was able to back the screw out. Then drilled a 3/8" hole and glued in a dowel.
It took about 1/2 hours to complete the operation.
I think it definitely would have been easier to have remembered to use the wax that is now sitting on the work bench.
hoo did you see ?
aussie pete
40 Cal
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In the past i used bar soap for a thread lube. over time i discovered said screw threads rusted. Discovered that most bar hand soap has salts in it's ingredients. switched to bees wax. no salts, won't absorb moisture and makes the screws thread in smoothly. also squeezes excess out to be wiped off easily.
aussie pete
40 Cal
@deerstalkert provides a cautionary tale. In outback stations they usually have an outside wash-up area for ringers and shearers to clean up before they go inside for a feed. The aged stainless-steel soap holders show up nice and shiny in the sun, but underneath where the soap sits is an etched area of corrosion; older soap holders, decades old, can be rusted completely through where the bar of soap once sat.
Pete
Banjoman
Eager to learn and willing to teach.
Started working on an abused and neglected (not by me though) Renegade barrel to see if I can salvage something out of it. Took some work but the nipple finally came out. Drum threads may be ok. If this all becomes too much for an amateur cobbler, I may send it and the stock on down the road. The stock, lock and triggers are in very good shape.
