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Was Dutch right about wiping between shots?

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Dutch advocated consistency in all aspects and he noted how variables tended to change the accuracy. I have friends who swear by his dry lube recommendations yet I have not been as successful. I appreciated his insight because I made some adjustments which proved to be good. Granted, not all of his information may not work for everybody but it has merit. Although I do not wipe each and every shot, I do wipe every two shots with little or no issues.
What kind of dry lube did he use?
 
Patch material was prepared with water soluble oil. He recommended one should experiment with various percentages of water to oil and let the patches dry.
I just use a patch of tee shirt with nothing on it and it make loading the next load easy. It also will be accurate? Maybe with some sort of lube I would be able to push the ram rod down without have to pull it back a few inches before I go down futher when it starts to stick?
 
I just use a patch of tee shirt with nothing on it and it make loading the next load easy. It also will be accurate? Maybe with some sort of lube I would be able to push the ram rod down without have to pull it back a few inches before I go down futher when it starts to stick?
I tired various radios of Dutch's dry lube ratios and I found it not working well for me. I also noted the need for cleaning between shots was preferred as part of the procedure. I am not sure how many shooters use the dry patch method with success as most I know lube their patches.
 
I tired various radios of Dutch's dry lube ratios and I found it not working well for me. I also noted the need for cleaning between shots was preferred as part of the procedure. I am not sure how many shooters use the dry patch method with success as most I know lube their patches.
Yes ! That is what I got from their post. I have use the method I described in every M.L. I have had and all of them shot extremely well? It is contrary to what I have read on this forum? I find it strange that there are so many ways and they all get good results ? I am a little bit leery of changing methods due to the ease of loading and the accuracy I get! I would like to find a way to ease the dry patch going down the barrel? I do have to be careful or the patch will get stuck! If I neglect to go down a little and pull back then go down again doing this back and forth untill I reach the bottom I can guarantee it will get stuck and I mean badly stuck requiring a hard pull to remove the rod! The more I read the more mixed up I get! LOL!
 
Patch material was prepared with water soluble oil. He recommended one should experiment with various percentages of water to oil and let the patches dry.
Dutch Schultz's book suggests systematic methods of experimenting, to find consistent and repeatable combinations to determine the best combination of variables for your rifle. All props to him, as his book helped me a lot starting out. In less than a year using his system, was often placing and winning local matches against shooters who've been doing this in some cases since before I was born.

Consistency yes, but experimentation and testing variables to achieve repeatable better results. I believe the genesis of my problems this past weekend was that I changed one of those variables in a match with deleterious results. So now, am exploring and testing other procedures and products to correct the issue, and hopefully achieve as good or even better results. His system is great, but that doesn't mean that with experimentation, an even better process or combination of variables cannot be found.
 
The dry patch method requires a bit more cleaning between every shot. For the dry patch to be easy to load, the grooves must be nearly free of fouling and the fouling left must be moist. Dry or nearly dry fouling will build up as one loads a dry patched ball resulting in a stuck ball. The wiping with a damp patch between shots is required for using a dry patched ball. I learned by doing that using a dry patch after firing will be get stuck at some point.
 
I just use a patch of tee shirt with nothing on it and it make loading the next load easy. It also will be accurate? Maybe with some sort of lube I would be able to push the ram rod down without have to pull it back a few inches before I go down futher when it starts to stick?
One of the first warnings I got starting out, was to never to use a dry patch, because they get stuck and may come off in the bore.

Dutch Schultz's dry patch system, isn't truly dry, Oils are left behind in the cloth, after the water has evaporated.
 
The dry patch method requires a bit more cleaning between every shot. For the dry patch to be easy to load, the grooves must be nearly free of fouling and the fouling left must be moist. Dry or nearly dry fouling will build up as one loads a dry patched ball resulting in a stuck ball. The wiping with a damp patch between shots is required for using a dry patched ball. I learned by doing that using a dry patch after firing will be get stuck at some point.
Not a dry patched ball but a dry patch down the barrel before loading.
 
One of the first warnings I got starting out, was to never to use a dry patch, because they get stuck and may come off in the bore.

Dutch Schultz's dry patch system, isn't truly dry, Oils are left behind in the cloth, after the water has evaporated.
I know for a fact a patch can get stuck and I mean really stuck! You don't want it to happen if you don't have tools to get it out! That is why I stressed going down a little and pulling back a bit before going down again . I do it every eight or so inches as I go down. If you do that it will not get stucked.
 
I know for a fact a patch can get stuck and I mean really stuck! You don't want it to happen if you don't have tools to get it out! That is why I stressed going down a little and pulling back a bit before going down again . I do it every eight or so inches as I go down. If you do that it will not get stucked.
So much safer and easier to siimply moisten the patch slightly with a liquid cleaning product. Even if it is just saliva or water.

I like to use 50/50 simple Green /Alcohol or commercial windshield wiper fluid in a 2oz spray bottle. 1-2 quick sqirts on a patch is all you need.
20241120_093807.jpg

I usually use half of the 2oz bottle during a range session or match, firing 30-40 shots. A gallon jug costs less than $3 and will refill or top-off that 2oz spray bottle 80-100 times.
 
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I do wipe between shots with a moist patch of window cleaner. I do know that if you have the hammer down on the nipple when you wipe, a lot of times you will get a misfire. It is very important to have the hammer on half **** and force the air through the nipple when you wipe. You can hear the air escape the nipple when you push the ramrod down fast when wiping with a moist patch. Then you know the channel is clear and have reliable ignition.
 
I do wipe between shots with a moist patch of window cleaner. I do know that if you have the hammer down on the nipple when you wipe, a lot of times you will get a misfire. It is very important to have the hammer on half **** and force the air through the nipple when you wipe. You can hear the air escape the nipple when you push the ramrod down fast when wiping with a moist patch. Then you know the channel is clear and have reliable ignition.
Amen!
 
As already stated Dutch's system is best applied to competition shooting and must be followed faithfully.

For a simple day at the range of casual shooting his system is a little much. If you master the system you will get results. But if you are not looking to be a top of the line shooter...why bother? I am trying to have fun and keep my groups at minute of deer, I am never going to win a competitive match.

With that said ... Dutch was on the money about consistency being the key. Don't let to many variables enter the equation and control as many of them as you can.

I do wipe between every shot, but it is part of my reloading ritual and it serves me well. Helps keep me in the zone and focused. I use a mop that is moderately damp with alcohol. 90%+ ISP. The warm barrel will have that alcohol evaporated off real fast.
 
As already stated Dutch's system is best applied to competition shooting and must be followed faithfully.

For a simple day at the range of casual shooting his system is a little much. If you master the system you will get results. But if you are not looking to be a top of the line shooter...why bother? I am trying to have fun and keep my groups at minute of deer, I am never going to win a competitive match.

With that said ... Dutch was on the money about consistency being the key. Don't let to many variables enter the equation and control as many of them as you can.

I do wipe between every shot, but it is part of my reloading ritual and it serves me well. Helps keep me in the zone and focused. I use a mop that is moderately damp with alcohol. 90%+ ISP. The warm barrel will have that alcohol evaporated off real fast.
Wow, don't think I have ever used a mopp in the bore. I have several, but they're old, and unused. I rarely even use a brush, usually just to remove rust in a recently purchased used gun, and sometimes in my musket after a skirmish, when I fired 7-10 miniballs consecutively without swabbing. It builds up some serious crusty, I usually plug the nipple, fill the barrel 2/3 way with windshield wiper fluid, let it sit 5-10 min, then scrub with a bronze brush and empty it out the muzzle, then hook a barrel flush tube to the nipple, and flush it. Dry with alcohol patch, followed by an oiled patch. Usually works pretty well. Perhaps I should experiment with using a mop.
 
I thoroughly cleaned my barrel, scraped the breech too. Also the vent liner. When I got done, I stuck my tiny bore light into the vent hole. (Light from a night fishing bobber. To my surprise, it looked like the light was ahead of the patent breech cavity. I have enlarged my vent liner hole to 5/64.
I have the original lock on my TC, it sure may be contributing to the problem, as it eats flints. I will search for a 2nd generation lock. I’m going to continue to wipe between shots, but use the correct jag and patch.
I also live in Georgia, and high humidity is surely adding to the problem.
I’ll get it sorted out and report back.
Thank you all for the tips and advice.
I will also go back to spit patches for a time to see how effective it is.
I kinda stopped reading when suggestions swung to Percussion lock issues where you are clearly working with Flintlock, as you mentioned the vent liner in the very first post...

Anyway; I wipe between shots too but I don't use Dutch's system (bought the book, read it, but never tried it).
However I had some time back had the same issue you described.

1) First time, I had put maybe 1000 plus shots through my new Pedersoli 50cal.
I Always remove the liner when I clean and I clean it too, so I know what it looks like we'll and when my miss fires and began looking for "Why?" - I swore the vent liner looked 'different', the hole looked larger (never measured it) and the inside just looked 'different'.

So I purchased a replacement and replaced it...problem stopped.

2) Then it came back (misfire with flash in the pan); I first suspected the line...but it looks like new still?
Then, I don't know who but I found 'crud' was building up and apparently blocking the vent hole, maybe after 5, 7, 8 or so shots - even with wiping.

So, I found that after every wipe or two I turn the rifle upside down and Slap It and out fals a few bits of shmut....misfires stopped.
That was a few years ago.

In closing; while your shooting and wipping- After a wipe turn her muzzle down and smack her, see if any blackened bits fall out?

Also, when I load my powder I always rest the but on my foot, tip the rifle and Slap it so I settle the charge AWAY from the vent (lock) side. I know many just bounce their rifle on the ground to settle the powder but I like to settle mine Away from the vent, and yes I have noticed some at club shoots kinda lookin funny at me - or maybe it's because I am the one yet to have a misfire at our monthly shoots...
 
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