Was Dutch right about wiping between shots?

[LME]

Dutch advocated consistency in all aspects and he noted how variables tended to change the accuracy. I have friends who swear by his dry lube recommendations yet I have not been as successful. I appreciated his insight because I made some adjustments which proved to be good. Granted, not all of his information may not work for everybody but it has merit. Although I do not wipe each and every shot, I do wipe every two shots with little or no issues.

What kind of dry lube did he use?

 

[TexiKan]

What kind of dry lube did he use?

Patch material was prepared with water soluble oil. He recommended one should experiment with various percentages of water to oil and let the patches dry.

 

[LME]

Patch material was prepared with water soluble oil. He recommended one should experiment with various percentages of water to oil and let the patches dry.

I just use a patch of tee shirt with nothing on it and it make loading the next load easy. It also will be accurate? Maybe with some sort of lube I would be able to push the ram rod down without have to pull it back a few inches before I go down futher when it starts to stick?

 

[TexiKan]

I just use a patch of tee shirt with nothing on it and it make loading the next load easy. It also will be accurate? Maybe with some sort of lube I would be able to push the ram rod down without have to pull it back a few inches before I go down futher when it starts to stick?

I tired various radios of Dutch's dry lube ratios and I found it not working well for me. I also noted the need for cleaning between shots was preferred as part of the procedure. I am not sure how many shooters use the dry patch method with success as most I know lube their patches.

 

[LME]

I tired various radios of Dutch's dry lube ratios and I found it not working well for me. I also noted the need for cleaning between shots was preferred as part of the procedure. I am not sure how many shooters use the dry patch method with success as most I know lube their patches.

Yes ! That is what I got from their post. I have use the method I described in every M.L. I have had and all of them shot extremely well? It is contrary to what I have read on this forum? I find it strange that there are so many ways and they all get good results ? I am a little bit leery of changing methods due to the ease of loading and the accuracy I get! I would like to find a way to ease the dry patch going down the barrel? I do have to be careful or the patch will get stuck! If I neglect to go down a little and pull back then go down again doing this back and forth untill I reach the bottom I can guarantee it will get stuck and I mean badly stuck requiring a hard pull to remove the rod! The more I read the more mixed up I get! LOL!

 

[JDBraddy]

Patch material was prepared with water soluble oil. He recommended one should experiment with various percentages of water to oil and let the patches dry.

Dutch Schultz's book suggests systematic methods of experimenting, to find consistent and repeatable combinations to determine the best combination of variables for your rifle. All props to him, as his book helped me a lot starting out. In less than a year using his system, was often placing and winning local matches against shooters who've been doing this in some cases since before I was born.

Consistency yes, but experimentation and testing variables to achieve repeatable better results. I believe the genesis of my problems this past weekend was that I changed one of those variables in a match with deleterious results. So now, am exploring and testing other procedures and products to correct the issue, and hopefully achieve as good or even better results. His system is great, but that doesn't mean that with experimentation, an even better process or combination of variables cannot be found.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The dry patch method requires a bit more cleaning between every shot. For the dry patch to be easy to load, the grooves must be nearly free of fouling and the fouling left must be moist. Dry or nearly dry fouling will build up as one loads a dry patched ball resulting in a stuck ball. The wiping with a damp patch between shots is required for using a dry patched ball. I learned by doing that using a dry patch after firing will be get stuck at some point.

 

[JDBraddy]

I just use a patch of tee shirt with nothing on it and it make loading the next load easy. It also will be accurate? Maybe with some sort of lube I would be able to push the ram rod down without have to pull it back a few inches before I go down futher when it starts to stick?

One of the first warnings I got starting out, was to never to use a dry patch, because they get stuck and may come off in the bore.

Dutch Schultz's dry patch system, isn't truly dry, Oils are left behind in the cloth, after the water has evaporated.

 

[LME]

The dry patch method requires a bit more cleaning between every shot. For the dry patch to be easy to load, the grooves must be nearly free of fouling and the fouling left must be moist. Dry or nearly dry fouling will build up as one loads a dry patched ball resulting in a stuck ball. The wiping with a damp patch between shots is required for using a dry patched ball. I learned by doing that using a dry patch after firing will be get stuck at some point.

Not a dry patched ball but a dry patch down the barrel before loading.

 

[LME]

One of the first warnings I got starting out, was to never to use a dry patch, because they get stuck and may come off in the bore.

Dutch Schultz's dry patch system, isn't truly dry, Oils are left behind in the cloth, after the water has evaporated.

I know for a fact a patch can get stuck and I mean really stuck! You don't want it to happen if you don't have tools to get it out! That is why I stressed going down a little and pulling back a bit before going down again . I do it every eight or so inches as I go down. If you do that it will not get stucked.

 

[JDBraddy]

I know for a fact a patch can get stuck and I mean really stuck! You don't want it to happen if you don't have tools to get it out! That is why I stressed going down a little and pulling back a bit before going down again . I do it every eight or so inches as I go down. If you do that it will not get stucked.

So much safer and easier to siimply moisten the patch slightly with a liquid cleaning product. Even if it is just saliva or water.

I like to use 50/50 simple Green /Alcohol or commercial windshield wiper fluid in a 2oz spray bottle. 1-2 quick sqirts on a patch is all you need.

 

[Boomerang]

I do wipe between shots with a moist patch of window cleaner. I do know that if you have the hammer down on the nipple when you wipe, a lot of times you will get a misfire. It is very important to have the hammer on half cock and force the air through the nipple when you wipe. You can hear the air escape the nipple when you push the ramrod down fast when wiping with a moist patch. Then you know the channel is clear and have reliable ignition.

 

[JDBraddy]

I do wipe between shots with a moist patch of window cleaner. I do know that if you have the hammer down on the nipple when you wipe, a lot of times you will get a misfire. It is very important to have the hammer on half cock and force the air through the nipple when you wipe. You can hear the air escape the nipple when you push the ramrod down fast when wiping with a moist patch. Then you know the channel is clear and have reliable ignition.

Amen!