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Failed to fire, how to best extract or remove .50 sabot and 100 grain load?

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wpage

wpage

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Hey guys,
So my .50 after several attempts with primers refused to ignite...

The sabot is the type with the green plastic nose and tail. The load is 2 50 grain drop in modules.

Wondering whats the best route to unload this problem. Thanks in advance for your advice !
 
A couple of ways that might work for you. You are not using black powder. Do you have any black powder avaliable to you? I would take the nipple out and put a little black powder under the nipple. You just need enough to ignite the main charge. If you do this, make sure that you are able to thread the nipple so that it is seated properly. I assume you dont have any bp, so take a pellet and break off some and reduce it to a powder.

The other way would be to pull the bullet. Do you have a bullet puller?

How about an air compressor with a nozzle that you can simply press tight against the nipple and blow it out?

I have done all 3 of these methods successfully.

Fleener
 
Is this an inline where you can simply remove the rear plug?

You say you are using primers and non black powder.

Fleener
 
fleener said:
Is this an inline where you can simply remove the rear plug?

You say you are using primers and non black powder.

Fleener
Click to expand...
In the don't discuss modern style guns on this forum. If you are using pellets did you put them in with the ignitor pad down. I thought one of the alleged big advantages of these things was it was so easy to p I ll the breach plug.
 
The easiest way to unload a muzzleloader is to get one of those CO2 dischargers and blow it out. Be aware that the bullet will come out with considerable velocity so point it in a safe direction.
 
Thanks for the tips guys...

Going to take it back to the range and add some black powder behind the nipple. Then try again.
 
wpage said:
OK assuming this clears. Going forward. Is it recommended to NOT use pellets in traditional mussel loaders.??
Click to expand...

Correct.
Best to only use loose black powder or substitute.
Or do a 5 grain charge of loose, then the pellets on top of that if you want to use them up. Combined, don't exceed max charge for safety of course.
 
wpage said:
OK assuming this clears. Going forward. Is it recommended to NOT use pellets in traditional mussel loaders.??
Click to expand...

Pyrodex pellets should work.. ok

Pyrodex loose is better

Blackpowder.. best

All other pellets. I havnt tried with p cap. But majority says no they don't work I think.
 
wpage said:
OK assuming this clears. Going forward. Is it recommended to NOT use pellets in traditional mussel loaders.??
Click to expand...
Yep, pellets in a traditional side lock muzzleloader are a PIA at best to use and not recommended. There are a few side locks made to work with pellets, but I wasn’t impressed with TC’s attempt at it years ago with their Firestorm. Probably best to go with blackpowder if available.
 
Trigger said:
Pyrodex pellets should work.. ok

Pyrodex loose is better

Blackpowder.. best

All other pellets. I havnt tried with p cap. But majority says no they don't work I think.
Click to expand...
Getting an ignition flame to the center of the pellet (the pellets I experimented with had a small charge of blackpowder in the center of the end) can be a challenge, though it can be done with a booster charge. Just wasn’t impressed for what they were.
 
OK good to know. So the granular powder works better, ignition wise with these traditional guns. The hot shot 209 primers must give a better hit to ignite the pellets in the inline version guns. Makes sense now.
Thanks Gurus for sharing the wisdom....
 
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