This stuff is dangerous. Putting it on lug nuts and other tight-tolerance applications is a good way to buy yourself some new threaded projects.
Breech plug removal question.
- Thread starter Flintlock Whiskey
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Please explain.
This stuff has aluminum in it. In very tight threads, that aluminum is essentially gritting/sanding against those threads and causing damage. Eventually, and it doesn't necessarily take very long, the threads become damaged to the point they are no longer tight.
As a side note, it's generally not recommended to put any kind of lubricant on a thread that you don't want to come loose unless you have some other mechanism holding it in place, such as a lock washer, pin, safety wire, etc. Putting this stuff on lug bolts/nuts is just begging for them to back out from vibration...I don't care how tightly you torque them. You'll have people say they've been doing it for years and never had an issue, but normalization of deviance is a dangerous way to live your life.
I could do it but I know people that I definitely would not advise to try it. Not everybody is created mechanically equal.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Golf!
FlinterNick
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Pick up a few dumbbells do some curls .. might help
There are always nay sayers; let's see, 40 years of putting the anti-seize on lug nuts, no failures, no stuck lug nuts either, I did my own auto mechanician most of my life, I did a brake job on my girlfriend's truck a few months ago and found that a 77-year-old guy suffers from getting under a vehicle now so I am DONE with such. 24 years of using it on tractor parts, no failures. At least 15 years of lubing breech plugs, percussion nipple threads and other assorted M/L bolts, no failures. 30 years of working with various crafts, mostly machinists and boilermakers in two 1,2OOMW + coal fired power plants who used it on high pressure bolt threads religiously, no failures.
I think it might be safe to use on a breech plug.
I think it might be safe to use on a breech plug.
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I don't understand why people think breech plugs need to be so tight. They don't need much more than finger tight. When I still shot modern bench rest matches, it wasn't uncommon for guys to unscrew barrels by hand and switch to another barrel.
Exactly. If it is fit correctly, it doesn’t need to be gorilla tight.
Here’s one of Kendall’s higher end underhammers with a pair of barrels. No tools required. Requires no more torque than what is in your wrist.
I’d like to know how many hours he put in fitting 2 barrels to 1 breech.
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dag nab it Eric! you just reminded me that I forgot to do this on the current fowler I am trying to build! now to decide if i want to remove the BP and apply it. sucks getting senile.
With a lathe, pretty simple job.
I think I just ruptured my spleen!
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If you build guns you will have to know how to install a B.P. but just to clean a M.L. it serves no purpose?
FlinterNick
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That’s a matter of opinion.
For cleaning, i don’t unbreech my guns, because it just doesn’t need to be done for cleaning. All that gets dirty is the face of the plug.
I unbreech if there’s an issue, stuck ball, jag, broken rammer, installing vent liner etc.
I do know people that routinely unbreech their guns, and clean them in an ultrasonic and anti size the threads, they certainly know what they’re doing and don’t have any issues with it.
For gun building it’s an essential skill to know, depending on your level of skill sets of course.
When the commies charge us, I want Nick in my fox hole.
Richard$58
32 Cal
I still have a 75 year old tin of lead paste anti seize. I wear gloves.
