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Yes, use shellac as a base coat since the T&T is linseed oil and doesn't provide much of a moisture barrier. It's not a requirement to seal the stock, but it sure doesn't hurt and will likely add decades to the life of the wood if it is used outdoors a lot.

Don't buy canned shellac, it's no good. Get a good, four-pound cut of shellac flakes and dissolve it in denatured alcohol. Don't store it once mixed and don't use anything but denatured alcohol from the paint store to dissolve it. You can find all kinds of good advice in articles from pros online about how to properly use and apply shellac as a wood sealer, it's very popular with fine furniture makers for a reason. Do some internet searching.
Just wanted to add a comment to make sure you use dewaxed shellac. I get it as prills/buttons and store said prills in the freezer until needed. Does a good job of sealing odors in antique dresser drawers. Dewaxed shellac is compatible with every other type of finish, or so I have read. I do not have much experience with the less refined waxed version, but suspect high levels of wax could cause adhesion issues.

Alcohol will dissolve it, so keep your 'Shine away from the finished item.
 
@IanH , please elaborate. Are you saying Jim's product is re-packaged "Waterlox"? If so, which Waterlox, is that good, bad, etc. I'm only vaguely familiar w/Waterlox as a brand.

How many suggestions do you want? I already made several direct ones and gave you a wealth of basic information to decide what to do for yourself. You opted out of my first two suggestions and came up with Jim's product and I told you what I suspect about it (note the question mark in my post, I don't know for sure but they're both in Ohio and the Original is a "sealer and finish" product) and gave you a potential tip if you'd refer to the rest of the message you quoted.

I think it's time for you to start putting some of these finishes on wood samples and see how they turn out for you.
 
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